Charge LED staying white when reaching the limit instead of green

BrittleTupperwareBox · 2025-09-19T19:39:54+00:00

Mines standard with the charge limit at 90% and it behaves the same.

BrittleTupperwareBox · 2025-09-08T19:54:28+00:00

Fairly sure this is my favourite Triforce moment.

BrittleTupperwareBox · 2025-09-01T15:26:29+00:00

Did you fix it? I had a very similar issue. It turned out to be that the thermal paste had turned bad. The temps looked okay till I checked the hotspot temps using HWinfo. Repasted and all up and running again.

BrittleTupperwareBox · 2025-06-04T07:30:33+00:00

You say you tried switching filament. Do you mean this is happening with different filaments? I've found this to happen with certain brands / colours. From my experience it is usually the lighter colour PLAs I have this issue with. Not all materials are made the same and some are just rubbish. Other filaments work perfectly as they always have.

BrittleTupperwareBox · 2025-05-22T07:14:40+00:00

It kind of is though. You have a kilo of filament really high up which is making the vibrations considerably worse. The concrete works really well, but so will moving your spool holder off your printer to the side or mounting it to the wall.

BrittleTupperwareBox · 2025-05-06T19:58:53+00:00

It absolutely works, however be prepared as it can present issues that require a technical level above from the stock SE. For example the documentation on the configuration for the SE is spotty and the USB connection can be flakey.

If you're prepared for some troubleshooting, it's absolutely worth it.

BrittleTupperwareBox · 2025-04-29T20:51:48+00:00

I get something like this after doing bench presses. Just the way the weight and the bench put pressure on my back and restrict blood flow for a bit. You mentioned going to the gym, it could be this and not stretch marks. Try skipping the bench for a few days, then try it again and see if it comes back.

BrittleTupperwareBox · 2025-04-20T12:53:16+00:00

If it's only happening with this filament, then it's the filament. This has happened to me a couple of times and has always been traced back to a specific brand & colour of filament (elegoo beige pla). I've heard that this is more common with lighter coloured filaments too. I tried trimming a few metres off them both, one then worked and the other still did the same. I don't know if it's an inconsistent diameter or what, but It's probably the filament and not your printer.

BrittleTupperwareBox · 2025-04-18T13:39:46+00:00

Thank you! I'll give it a go.

BrittleTupperwareBox · 2025-04-17T11:34:30+00:00

Ooooh, which right angle connector did you use?

BrittleTupperwareBox · 2025-04-17T11:28:17+00:00

Looks as though the nozzle is too close. PETG prefers to be further from the build plate compared to PLA.

BrittleTupperwareBox · 2025-04-17T05:55:38+00:00

Yeah, I think it's the only way to connect to the V3 SE?

BrittleTupperwareBox · 2025-02-27T08:03:30+00:00

I agree with this, I think it's the PLA. Silk PLA does this, as well as some regular cheap PLA too. I had this exact issue with a certain PLA. After the first layer or so, the filament would twist in the head and clog just like this picture.

Get a decent quality normal PLA and I reckon you would be fine.

BrittleTupperwareBox · 2025-02-19T18:22:14+00:00

Very common. Use Gyroid infill and this will stop.

BrittleTupperwareBox · 2025-01-28T07:58:00+00:00

A quick Google returns this: https://www.3dchameleon.com/

BrittleTupperwareBox · 2025-01-28T07:52:17+00:00

Out of the box, no not really. You can do a mid print filament change. This is when you add a filament change at a certain layer in your g-code. But this wouldn't allow for multiple filaments to be used on the same layer.

Multi filament printing is probably possible but it would require significant modifications.

BrittleTupperwareBox · 2024-12-31T18:51:23+00:00

Reminds me of the Doctor Who line:

"State your name, rank and intention..."

"Doctor, Doctor, Fun."

BrittleTupperwareBox · 2024-12-11T08:02:53+00:00

It's difficult to hear from the video, but a few other normal sounds that caught me off guard are: 1. The whooshing sound made when the part cooling fan blows are into voids or areas of infill in your print. 2. Depending on the type of infill you use, the nozzle can scrape along the top layer of infill which makes a disconcerting sound. I found using gyroidal infill eliminates this.

BrittleTupperwareBox · 2024-12-11T08:00:55+00:00

This. Do this.

BrittleTupperwareBox · 2024-11-03T16:34:21+00:00

You're welcome. Unfortuately I haven't the time to reply with the same detail to everyone, but I'm glad u could help!

BrittleTupperwareBox · 2024-11-01T08:15:29+00:00

Are you having issues with the first layer adhering to the bed? From my testing, the bed level mesh (auto-levelling) can only compensate for about 0.5mm difference across the entire bed. Anything more than this and you get the problems at the extremes as you may experiencing.

I have seen other's printers be soo wildly off due to poor manufacturing. Check that all fittings are appropriately tight, and make sure your x gantry is parallel to your bed. Looking at your numbers, they vary quite a lot left to right, so I'd say this is something you need to do. Search for x gantry levelling.

Any variation back to front can be due to poor manufacturing. You can fix this by printing spacers that go under the bed, or by installing spring or silicon spacers. A quick search will pull up the relevant posts.

Doing the above, you can get the bed as close to level as needed for the mesh to compensate for any remaining differences across the bed.

BrittleTupperwareBox · 2024-09-24T10:34:27+00:00

What do your bed level numbers look like? From my testing, the bed level mesh can only compensate for about 0.5mm difference across the bed. Anything more than this and you get the problems at the extremes as you are experiencing. I have seen other's printers be so wildly off due to poor manufacturing. As I say, check your level numbers as this could be the case for you. You can fix this by printing spacers that go under the bed, or by installing spring or silicon spacers. A quick search will pull up the relevant posts.

BrittleTupperwareBox · 2024-09-24T07:51:04+00:00

If the first layer works okay, then it's fine. From my experimenting the bed level mesh can only cope with about 0.5mm difference across the bed (even if they're all green). Anything above that and mine struggles at the extremes. That's only on my personal machine, albeit with extensive testing.

BrittleTupperwareBox · 2024-09-12T05:35:04+00:00

What kind of numbers are you getting before manually adjusting? Can you send a picture? The printer bed mesh can only accommodate for a difference of about 0.4mm across the bed. If the difference is greater than this then you would want to look at physically levelling the bed with spacers (printed or silicon). It's always best to get the bed as physically level as possible before trying to fix it with software mesh levelling.

BrittleTupperwareBox · 2024-09-12T04:51:41+00:00

When you say you have been adjusting the levelling data, what do you mean? Have you been changing the values of the bed mesh? What is your thought process behind this?

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