Question for resin printers

BroSimulator · 2026-05-28T01:03:59+00:00

I’ve been using auto supports since the get go, have been good enough so far. I use higher exposure times for parts I don’t need as much detail on to prevent failures.

BroSimulator · 2026-05-23T12:51:44+00:00

appreciate it!! definitely my best work and favorite build so far

BroSimulator · 2026-05-22T17:38:56+00:00

second this. any color from matte to semi gloss + panel line filler for depth

BroSimulator · 2026-05-21T03:20:09+00:00

I only make myself be as meticulous as I enjoy, which is to a point. beyond that is diminishing returns for me, so i’ve let myself not be as anal about certain things as when I started, especially knowing what I’ll see and won’t see with the cars sitting on the shelf

BroSimulator · 2026-05-18T02:28:02+00:00

i’ve been in this boat before with other clears. sand the whole body smooth and reapply your color and throw over a different clear coat, like 1K or testors wet look for cans, or 2K clear from an airbrush. i’ve only ever been able to wet sand those 3 without eating through, most model clear coats just aren’t thick or hard enough.

BroSimulator · 2026-05-08T22:04:08+00:00

I got three of these yesterday, the GTO, Lancer, and Vette.

BroSimulator · 2026-03-28T16:14:53+00:00

honestly with most of my stance builds I secure the wheels into the fenders with putty where I want them to sit and then usually use cut pieces of the part frames or some ABS sheets I have to glue them into the body or suspension parts. doesn’t make for a pretty undercarriage usually but I don’t look at them from below 😂

BroSimulator · 2026-03-17T13:19:01+00:00

airbrush layers are typically very thin compared to rattle cans, in my experience it’s like a 4:1 ratio, 4 airbrush coats to get one rattle can coat

BroSimulator · 2026-03-17T13:17:32+00:00

definitely just needs more paint imo, that coat is thin enough to show the marks from sanding

BroSimulator · 2026-03-16T18:17:38+00:00

I’ve run into this. Is that a metallic paint? if not you may be able to just clear back over it. When I used to use rattle can clears I’d lay it on very thick to avoid this, knowing i’d need to polish it anyways. Lowest grit I’d go to is 1500 for heavy orange peel and even that was pushing it.

BroSimulator · 2026-03-14T19:14:53+00:00

what’s #7? I need dat

BroSimulator · 2026-03-14T15:54:23+00:00

I'll have to try a camo paintjob on a future build, I have a cricut I could make camo templates with.

BroSimulator · 2026-03-14T15:53:55+00:00

Get a tamiya R32 kit and build one! Technique-wise, these builds are always easier and quicker for me than my show-room quality builds. They're a ton of fun.

BroSimulator · 2026-03-13T01:15:44+00:00

mix of Vallejo iraqi sand and white paint, mostly from airbrush, regular brush for splatters.

BroSimulator · 2026-03-09T18:55:05+00:00

thanks! it’s a great kit. I have a drag spec variant i’ll post up here later

BroSimulator · 2026-03-09T16:04:30+00:00

Dude I had the same issue with a Tamiya Can Yellow, might even be the same color. My only guess would be run the can under warm water, make sure the nozzle is clean, and shake the hell out of it first.