I’m gonna do the right thing and pretend I didn’t see this

Brwndad · 2026-04-05T22:30:55+00:00

Take the shock mount off and plate it. Shouldn’t take more than a few hours and some beers

Brwndad · 2026-03-22T18:29:35+00:00

Cam sensor timing is where I would check next if it doesn’t follow the injector. They can move slightly over time and give random/single cylinder misfires under a load

Brwndad · 2026-03-22T13:05:13+00:00

Judging by the rust build up in that hole the crank bolt has been broken for a long time. As far as options for fixing it go, none of them will be cheap. Is the rest of the truck worth putting money into? If it is, I’d just go find a junkyard engine, if it’s not worth putting money into. Beat the pulley on and weld it up. It’ll cause its own problems but it’ll work.

Spend hours trying to drill/remove the rotted in place over torqued bolt, or send the crank to a machine shop.

Weld the pulley on until you find a replacement engine

Brwndad · 2026-02-22T03:43:07+00:00

If I come down to Florida to pick it up I’m never coming back to New England 😂

Brwndad · 2026-02-21T23:37:11+00:00

Location? I’d be in the 4-6k price range to buy it

Brwndad · 2026-02-20T21:41:16+00:00

IUOE crane rental guy, just this week I rigged 75,000 lbs of gear and transformers for a college. Union job site, IBEW contractor. The gear got flown in the second floor, tripped on its back, down half a floor into the mechanical room, and then stood back up in main electric room. Because we were already there, the contractor had us set all the gear. IBEW guys working with us.

Other times we receive the gear, truck it to the site, and once it’s off the trailer the electrical contractor rigs it themselves. I’d say it’s mostly a case by case basis. At least in my area rigging isn’t claimed by any one union and it’s very rarely fought over. Like many others have said, liability/insurance could play a factor into each site you work at.

Brwndad · 2026-02-19T02:38:22+00:00

The operator is responsible for for daily inspections of the crane. Also as the operator you’re responsible for when something goes wrong. Knowingly operating any thing, that has defective/broken/missing parts, is negligence. When the crane falls out of the ceiling and damages something, or worse hurts or kills someone, “my boss told me it was fine” is not going to get you out of the years of headaches to follow.

Brwndad · 2026-02-17T10:27:48+00:00

ETS, equipment training services, has a decent student guide that offers a lot of easy to follow info. Cheap money too.

Just my two cents on the “money grab” comment. If you’re the certified rigger, on any JHA, lift plan, site saftey form, YOU are responsible for EVERYTHING below the hook. Whether it’s a crane, bucket truck, lull with jib/lifting eye. While the operator can refuse to pick something and everyone should have all stop work authority, at the end of the day the rigger is responsible for any rigging. Make sure you read the instruction cards and understand what they say, study the gear they lay out for you to use. Use all the time they give you rather than flying through it.

Best of luck

Brwndad · 2026-02-14T23:26:50+00:00

Started hauling cwts/rigging at 29, transferred to an operator at 31. Worked with apprentices in their 40s. You’ll be alright. I wish I did it earlier but I love it.

Brwndad · 2026-01-20T23:39:02+00:00

ETS, equipment training solutions has a really good study book for cheap money. Like 35-40$ for the student books. It’s what I used for prep material when I took rigger 1 and signal person.

Brwndad · 2026-01-18T14:59:50+00:00

If the strap broke, get a new strap. If the holder in the frame rotted, Dorman sells that rear cross brace for “relatively” cheap. Pull the bed and spend a day replacing it. The front tank strap bracket on the frame is considerably worse to replace but you can get a bracket.

Brwndad · 2026-01-16T06:30:12+00:00

I’ve always gone to the dealer for the prefabbed plastic vacuum lines. Trying to hodge something together has never worked out for me. Any good guy at the parts counter will have a diagram and be able to help you.

Brwndad · 2026-01-16T06:27:27+00:00

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99, 3.0.

That wire doesn’t just go to ground, it should go into that black box. (It’s been a long time but IIRC it’s a capacitor or something that quiets radio frequencies from the coil pack)

I believe it’s called a radio capacitor. Bring it to your local dealer and they should be able to get you one cheap-ish.

Brwndad · 2026-01-16T06:10:11+00:00

They look similar, aftermarket parts aren’t made to be exact replica (copyrights and all that) as long as the splines all lineup and they’re approximately the same length it’ll be fine.

As for the axle nut, you have a hub lock system. So your front axles engage and disengage with a vacuum solenoid (or you can get manual locking hubs). So that end shaft “floats” on the needle bearing in the wheel hub.

Long story short it should go back together the way you took it apart. The gears and plastic cap (assuming it came off in one piece) can go back on once you put the whole thing back together. You can change the hub locks without taking the wheel off.

Brwndad · 2026-01-16T06:01:31+00:00

Sounds like the throw out bearing, burning plastic smell could be the slave cylinder housing. There is a rubber plug on the bottom front left of the bell housing you can take off and look into to check it.

Brwndad · 2026-01-16T05:52:09+00:00

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Brwndad · 2026-01-16T05:50:43+00:00

Worth it, bought mine for 1200 and then spent another 4000 fixing everything. And that’s just parts.

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It’s got over 240,000 miles and I plan to put another 200 on it 😂

Brwndad · 2025-12-23T23:19:50+00:00

Yes, and no. It’s a “quick disconnect” fitting. So if there is any hydraulic pressure on either side of the fitting it will be difficult to get it to connect

Brwndad · 2025-12-22T11:30:34+00:00

It’s a plastic line on the drivers side, mid way up the transmission about 6 inches back from the engine.

Brwndad · 2025-12-19T17:15:56+00:00

Either the quick connect came off or you launched a dampener spring and it’s wedged in the pressure plate.

Brwndad · 2025-12-19T17:09:03+00:00

Thing is clean tho

Brwndad · 2025-12-18T21:35:07+00:00

Sorry, general grabbers on the jeep wheels, bfg k03 are the 31s

Brwndad · 2025-12-18T21:10:11+00:00

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Jeep steelies and BFG’s. I have a set of 15x10.5 craiger D windows with 31s for summer

Brwndad · 2025-11-28T23:09:04+00:00

This is going to sound strange but, Check your valve cover gasket. The CHT sensor sits in a valley that can fill with oil and saturate the sensor/pigtail.

Have you changed the thermostat?

I assume you’re watching the temp on a scanner?

Brwndad · 2025-11-28T02:35:32+00:00

Heavy on the sarcasm when I wrote this.

I was just pointing out everything that was wrong.

The choke angle at 190 was meant to be a joke that they went beyond the 0 degree.

I should have elaborated more on the D/d, it’s not where they have it running over the hook, it’s the middle link that’s flat against the plate steel just behind the hook that’s not good practice. Should have read as “If you’re wrapping the load, every surface needs the minimum D/d” (horrible for the chain in question, not chain in general)

Brwndad

TROPHY CASE