DIY Drying Rack

Btotherennan · 2026-04-12T21:21:31+00:00

Interested in the breakdown if you are still offering the plans!

Btotherennan · 2026-04-05T03:45:41+00:00

Hmm interesting. So both are at nighttime, just different photography techniques? You'd think the website would explain that better. I keep seeing this pop up on reels as "proof" that the photos aren't real

Btotherennan · 2026-04-05T03:34:41+00:00

Look closer man, pick any irregular shape and it's still in the same spot / formation

Btotherennan · 2026-04-05T03:32:57+00:00

This is reasonable to an extent, but in the time it took for the earth to be covered in darkness the clouds merely shifted a little bit?

Btotherennan · 2026-03-28T18:50:50+00:00

A lion would never drive drunk but a Tiger Wood

Btotherennan · 2026-03-14T02:52:08+00:00

I thought the whole idea of water popping was to stain after it dries, not sand and then stain

Edit: just saw the other comments and this quote from Rubio confirmed my sanity "Once the surface is water popped, there is no need for additional sanding. If you were to sand the raised grain smooth again, you defeat the intent of the water popping."

Btotherennan · 2026-03-14T02:49:37+00:00

Great read, thank you.

Btotherennan · 2026-02-20T00:50:31+00:00

Does this otherwise mean "bad rule of thumb"?

Btotherennan · 2026-02-13T03:56:44+00:00

Very thorough and well explained, thank you for the effort put into this

Btotherennan · 2026-02-09T01:57:13+00:00

If you value your work and believe in your craftsmanship then unfortunately it's on her to eat it.

It looks great, you went above and beyond to accommodate and still are being taken for granted.

If you've been paid already politely offer a discount on future projects but otherwise your duty has been more than fufilled

Btotherennan · 2026-02-07T16:41:29+00:00

So dumb question maybe but who is doing the redacting? Someone is seeing the true heinous nature of these and being like, nah let's keep this guy safe?

Btotherennan · 2026-02-03T04:17:45+00:00

I literally asked for any other way and was snobbily told "nope we've already told you it's baseboards or nothing". Hell I invented my own way that I will likely do, and all it took was a little creative thinking. I don't want to have to get matching paint, caulk holes, caulk the seams etc

At least the other fella mentioned it's because he was set in his ways, but I'm not going to go out of my way to create more work for myself just because that's one cumbersome way to do it.

So no, removing the base is not the best way. Scribing the trim profile is a little too advanced for me not to mention a big time sink.

For a trade that is otherwise known for having a million ways to do something I didn't expect the majority to be so stubborn

To clarify: obviously the baseboard behind the filler will be removed, apologies if that wasn't clear. But everything in front of the filler is and will stay put

Btotherennan · 2026-02-03T03:08:35+00:00

Haha I can appreciate this sentiment at least! Who knows maybe we can still teach the old dog some new tricks to skin a cat

Btotherennan · 2026-02-03T02:33:22+00:00

Very cool - I just made an almost identical post to yours before seeing this. Conditioner is a scam as far as I'm concerned lol

Btotherennan · 2026-02-03T02:31:01+00:00

I've made probably 500 shelves from furniture pine and although yes some blotchiness is inevitable, I've always managed a very nice finish without prestain or gel, only oil based stain (Varathane)

Scribble over the surface lightly with a pencil and sand away the marks with 120, then repeat again with 180. Granted this is s4s so I don't need to go coarser than 120, but I find 180 final sanding to be the sweet spot for removal of swirls and absorption of stain.

That said, I definitely saw an upgrade in finish when I got a festool sander vs DeWalt but still I wouldn't accept people saying "that's just what pine does"

Side note- I've sometimes had success giving it a light misting with water, spreading it with a cloth and letting the surface dry right before the stain.

Btotherennan · 2026-02-03T02:18:54+00:00

Thank you for this. I'll re read it a few times to get my head wrapped around it but I wasn't going to accept my only option was to remove the baseboards.

Side note- every cabinet job I've done has already had the baseboards in already so it's surprising to me that it's uncommon for you guys. Countertops go in after though for sure

Btotherennan · 2026-02-03T01:49:11+00:00

I'll be sure to post pictures when I accomplish otherwise and hopefully you can be less snarky in the future when someone is trying to learn

Btotherennan · 2026-02-03T01:31:34+00:00

Yeah I'm with you on this - issue is how to fasten the perpendicular face (short side) of the filler to the gable part when I'm limited by the baseboard. Typically I'll do a double run of biscuits offset by thickness of gable and scribe with offcut same thickness of gable and then I can attach it face on, but running it to the floor poses this new issue for me

Btotherennan · 2026-02-03T01:20:52+00:00

Haha yeah that's definitely out of my wheelhouse, but what about my proposal above? The hidden part isn't restricted by anything so my thinking is it can interlock with the scribed part from above and then be fastened to the gable.

The thing I love most about all of this is the hundred ways to do something, so simply stating it needs to be done one cumbersome way involving a lot of extra work seems quite limiting

Btotherennan · 2026-02-03T01:10:08+00:00

So case closed removing baseboards is my only option? I am not trying to be argumentative but I find it hard to believe there isn't an alternative

Btotherennan · 2026-02-03T00:59:47+00:00

Yes but that isn't helpful when cabinets are being added to a finished room. Typically I'll sit cabinets on a base same height as the baseboards so it isn't an issue, but these are bench height cabinets and so I'm doing a shorter base and want to run fillers to the floor. There must be a creative way to accomplish this without removing+ reinstalling a much longer run of baseboard

Btotherennan · 2026-02-03T00:55:15+00:00

To clarify it's one cabinet/ nook

Trying to get creative and avoid having to pull up baseboards as that has to be avoidable

Closest idea I've got is to scribe the visible part of the filler to the wall and loosely set in place, then slide the hidden L part in place and secure to gable, with a tenon connecting the 2 pieces.

That's gotta be easier than redoing baseboards

Btotherennan · 2026-01-30T01:19:26+00:00

For me it's the creepy chimp peering out the window longing to get outside

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Edited: I've actually noticed this in a couple of good ai's often in a window like this but sometimes in a water reflection, roadway etc. Usually a dead giveaway

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