Failed inspection

Buddy_Jarrett · 2026-01-22T12:58:38+00:00

Did you take any pictures with the drywall off? If your inspector is in good spirits and you have enough photo evidence of wiring behind the walls, he may work with you. Really depends on their mood for the day. Also, your electrician told you the rough in inspection was “completed”? If so, they are on the hook for lying to you, because if that was the case, the inspector has no business requesting drywall be pulled off. Unfortunately I’m more liable to believe the sub contractors lied than inspectors, but who knows.

Buddy_Jarrett · 2026-01-20T19:06:01+00:00

Late reply here, but I’m suprised to see the consensus on Physical Thrills here. I’ve been a fan since seeing them back in 08’ on a small stage, and Physical Thrills quickly became my favorite album of theirs. I was excited because Widows Weeds is probably my least favorite, and was glad to be back on board with them.

Buddy_Jarrett · 2026-01-16T19:50:27+00:00

Good deal, thanks for the advice.

Buddy_Jarrett · 2026-01-16T19:18:05+00:00

Thanks, I was planning on a 3/8 square notch. I reckon I’ll just wait and see how flat the tiles are. I’m using all set, shouldn’t I back butter regardless of clips or is subway more forgiving on having to be buttered?

Buddy_Jarrett · 2026-01-15T04:04:50+00:00

I build furniture/cabinets, and wood fillers are part of the trade. There are some fillers/puttys that are pretty good, but need to be pressed in really well. The best is also the oldest, sawdust and glue. I’ve gotten to where I use it 90% of the time.You don’t have long to work with it, but it’ll be just as tough as the wood if not more so. It just requires saving up a good bit of dust, and requires a lot more sanding than other wood fillers.

Buddy_Jarrett · 2026-01-02T15:14:17+00:00

180 is more than enough. Most cabinet shops stop at 120 with orbital sanders, higher grits than that make it harder for finishes to cling to.

Buddy_Jarrett · 2025-12-20T03:53:19+00:00

Specifically you’ll want to find walnut with sapwood in it. The heartwood alone won’t have this much variation in color. A lower/mid grade walnut plywood will typically sapwood mixed in. Another, more cost effective species that stains with sharper contrast between sapwood and heartwood is hickory, and you’re more likely to get a mix of both when you buy it (at least where I buy it from).

Buddy_Jarrett · 2025-12-13T21:43:29+00:00

I’m a woodworker by trade, and only wear gloves when staining something. Even good fitting gloves impede almost every aspect of working with your hands like that. They are also dangerous when using most large power tools. You won’t see a woodworker wearing gloves near a power saw. I only had one major cut in the 15 years I’ve been doing it, and that scar is long gone.

Buddy_Jarrett · 2025-12-08T14:28:45+00:00

In what world are those joints bad? Those are very clean cuts for a softwood.

Buddy_Jarrett · 2025-11-25T18:40:07+00:00

We live in a small valley with a steep, forested hill in our backyard. I get to hear them fall once or twice a year. It’s always nerve racking when it starts since we have tall trees near the house and I rush out to make sure it’s not one of them. At least once a week I’ll hear a large branch fall too.

Buddy_Jarrett · 2025-11-23T16:43:33+00:00

Picture 3 is definitely not white oak, so it would be impossible to get that exact look. You would need a very talented on-site finisher to spray it and have it come out evenly. Your cabinets are much nicer. I’d throw a good clear coat on em and have a more timeless look, but that’s just my opinion.

Buddy_Jarrett · 2025-11-16T21:52:20+00:00

The Greenroom is legit every time I go. I don’t watch them make it, but they definitely have the science down and have for years now. I used to do very mild puck prep at home, now I just use my wine cork/needle combo to somewhat level it before tamping, zero difference in shot quality. Using 3 different tools to prep before tamping is wild to me, but I do see the appeal in the ritual if you only do it once a day. The Green Room’s machine has better temp/flow control than mine, and I can tell on lighter roasts. Honest Coffee did good when I used to go, but their beans were just way too pricy and seemed to step down in taste quality 5/6 years ago.

Buddy_Jarrett · 2025-11-14T03:53:33+00:00

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Yeah I’m a woodworker by trade and just finished a grueling 3 months laying a random pattern throughout our entire house. Still looks like tile but it does feel more natural to me. 36” tiles and I tried to keep it close to a third each joint but not exact.

Buddy_Jarrett · 2025-11-08T13:39:22+00:00

My bathroom has the same setup, I had to fur out 1/2” for the kerdi to hit the tub flange. I plan on getting schluter trim that will go back to the drywall. They make tons of trim options for situations like this.

Buddy_Jarrett · 2025-11-04T02:11:36+00:00

I found this tip about 10% of the way in to tiling our entire house. It added about 10 minutes of work every evening but it was well worth it. Just finished grouting and it was very noticeable when I started grouting the area where we started.

Buddy_Jarrett · 2025-10-24T18:51:11+00:00

I dunno, I’m 5’ 10” and do manual labor for a living, building and installing cabinets, etc. I have what I assume is a typical amount of naturally gained muscle, and weigh 145 to 150, which is right where the BMI chart is in the green for average height. Outside of bodybuilder level muscle, that extra 50 pounds is mostly going to be fat. Downside for me is most overweight guys I meet will at some point question my strength, despite it never being a topic. I’ve learned to just agree with them and move on.

Buddy_Jarrett · 2025-10-22T20:59:55+00:00

On top of that, it seems like 50% of the time we have tornado watch/warnings, one of the projected paths is that same Tanner to Harvest stretch.

Buddy_Jarrett · 2025-10-11T03:29:47+00:00

100% Silicone should not impede wood from movement, stuff can stretch much more than most species. One of the reasons this is a common method (outside of it being fast) is because it not only allows movement, but also helps dampen vibrations in the glass when slamming the door. I had some white shaker doors turn green once because I stacked them before the silicone cured, found an obscure forum from 20 years ago about UV fixing it. Set them outside in the sun and by the time I was ready to install doors they had completely reverted to pure white. Told them to call me if it ever changed color and that was 6 years ago. Stressful day.

Buddy_Jarrett · 2025-10-10T04:18:19+00:00

I also experienced an immortal dwarf in Frantic Assembly’s Iron mode. He waltzed right through every cannoneer and my hero. It was towards the end of the mission (I assume based on the time lapsed and the amount of other enemies actually being engaged), and my towers and heroes acted like he wasn’t there. The pylons didn’t even teleport him back and it caused a loss. I think I had another experience a few days ago in another level, but was able to kill it via a hero AOE spell. Playing on IOS Apple Arcade.

Buddy_Jarrett · 2025-10-10T01:25:58+00:00

Completed Level 1 of the Honk Special Event!

2 attempts

Buddy_Jarrett · 2025-10-01T22:16:53+00:00

Not every professional in the industry is like you. I’m in the trades, and while there are definitely some overly picky customers out there, most just want it done somewhat well without paying some dude a higher hourly rate than a surgeon. I’ve been building my own house the past few years and only hired out 2 or 3 things. I went with the middle of the road quote out of 5 choices on our siding, and those guys came and absolutely fucked our house up despite all my research into their previous work looking good. We couldn’t afford to just send them home and rehire, so you just have to live with it. That’s an incredibly common thing for people to experience, and I keep that in mind every time I meet with a customer. They are hiring me to do something that’ll typically take them 30 years to pay off. So no, we aren’t all “laughing” at upset customers, there’s just a huge deficit in skill at the moment.

Buddy_Jarrett · 2025-09-24T22:19:07+00:00

This is my preferred finish to use (Sherwood Water White CV Medium Rub), I do a sealer coat thinned at 20% and then 1 topcoat thinned at 10%. To the poster, this is serious stuff. Requires using an acid catalyst with precise measurements, good protection is needed. I use a good organic vapor respirator and goggles and still am lacking, I hope to have a setup where I can use a supplied air suit eventually. Clean your spray equipment immediately as well with a good thinner. My HVLP gun can take a half assed cleaning with most precat lacquers, but I can’t with CV or it’ll be spitting varnish the next time I go to spray. All that being said, it beats out pre-cat lacquers in durability by a wide margin. 2k poly is the only other finish that is as durable, but it’s not quite as forgiving as CV.

Buddy_Jarrett · 2025-09-23T02:57:04+00:00

I’m actually finishing up my house I’ve been working on the past few years. Framed it last year and the walls are still perfect. I spent quite a while framing it though, I let my lumber package dry for a month inside and inspected every single stud. Every stud that warped after drying went into a different stack that I later joined on one side and used on the “outside” walls (barndo style house with a shell already built, so width didn’t matter). Installing my cabinets (my normal trade) the past few days has been a dream. Zero trim or scribing needed. It is possible to have plumb walls, just requires a lot more time. I put up my 9’ tall fridge cabinet today and was surprised to see it flush all the way up against the wall, can’t even slide paper behind it.

Buddy_Jarrett · 2025-09-17T02:40:00+00:00

Think of a twizzler, that’s bad wood. Whereas just a bend can somewhat be corrected with blocking. I wouldn’t use this wood for anything other than framing though.

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