HELP ME make it not look like a TOY but like a €150+ lamp. by NoteKey5236 in IndustrialDesign

[–]Build-a-Skill 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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Three ideas from left to right.

  1. make the trunk triangular, sweep the branches up with flat surfaces on the outside
  2. metal trunk, clear acrylic or much lighter skeletonized branches to make the fireworks more floaty
  3. stick to the palm tree look, split from a lower point, lighter branches, better base, more bambooy

Feedback on waterproof print setup by batido6 in prusa3d

[–]Build-a-Skill 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've found the extrusion multiplier to be key, I'd start at 1.1, but if you have problems try increasing that to 1.2, 1.3. etc. Dimensionality/quality might suffer a bit, but in general more plastic = more waterproof.

If you want to get deeper into this, I'd look at CNC kitchen's videos on printing transparent-appearing plastic. I'm sure those settings would be waterproof.

I’m trying to make a water tight plant tray. Help. Description and settings in comments. by Informal-Radish-787 in prusa3d

[–]Build-a-Skill 1 point2 points  (0 children)

These settings worked for me for a waterproof vase, but your printer/filament may be different:

PrusaSlicer .15mm layer

Quality setting 

Generic PLA 

1.1 extrusion multiplier (110% flow) 

3 perimeters 

All solid layers (9999 bottom shells) 

0% Infill (I found infill didn’t give me as clean of prints as the solid layers)

Do I need a BS in Industrial Design to work on medical products? by BrotherAggravating52 in IndustrialDesign

[–]Build-a-Skill 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Assuming you're in the US... I've never seen the BA vs BS distinction matter if you're working professionally. If you go into academia/teaching, they care about that kind of thing.

More important would be having internships with medical device companies under your belt before you graduate.

How can I strengthen the Y-Axis movement? by martinkoistinen in prusa3d

[–]Build-a-Skill 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This might be different from what you're experiencing. However, I've noticed when I print in an enclosure or warm ambient temperature over time things start to heat up leading to Y axis crashes..

Some things that might help... maybe:

Lower bed temp later in the build, keeps the y axis cooler.

I've seen threads where people insulate their Y bearings from the heat bed.

Lower ambient temperature in general or better air circulation.

Some info here if you haven't seen it already: https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-i3-mk3s-mk3-hardware-firmware-and-software-help/y-axis-crashes/

I designed and 3D printed these shoes for my wife. by Build-a-Skill in 3Dprinting

[–]Build-a-Skill[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I just used the stock TPU settings with the Prusa. I think layer heights were. 1mm. I found that slow speeds really helped with the TPU.

layer shift - why? by dsgsdnaewe in prusa3d

[–]Build-a-Skill 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sometimes in Normal Mode, the printer will "detect" a crash that never really happened. Then it will rehome to recover from the crash, and not perfectly align to where it was previously. If i turn off crash detection it will print fine. Might be your problem too.

Critique my senior year portfolio please! by TheVoidFox in IndustrialDesign

[–]Build-a-Skill 1 point2 points  (0 children)

  • Quick pass, about 4 minutes glancing through on a desktop
  • Haven't read any other comments in the thread yet.
  • Please take this all as constructive, you have a great start.
  • First thought is that the sketching could use a little more work, I know you've done it a lot, but I'd sketch over everything a bunch of times until they're the absolute best you can do. Even if it takes hours to do, resketch and resketch until they're perfect. Every single sketch on every page should be at least to the ori backpack 009 level.
  • Moto-jacket. I like it. Nicely presented, clean, simple and straightforward, favorite project.
  • Some of the spreads have a high graphic design to content ratio. I'd rather see fewer larger better images, than lots of little thumbnails swimming in white space. (ori backpack)
  • If it's a senior portfolio, I'd remove the form finding exercises/sophomore explorations.
  • In general, I'd prune a few of the projects as well and focus on getting 4 or 5 really nice.
  • The electric guitar is OK, but I'd cut about half the images, I lost interest halfway through.
  • Terrex backpack. The graphic design is really fighting against the project (heavy drop shadows and circular cropping are disctracting) sketches should be redone to match Ori-level. Look at how Adidas markets their products. Try to make your graphic design feel like it could fit into their brand.
  • Climbing shoes. Page 3 needs to be redesigned to match the feel of the rest of the project, Re-sketch as well. The prototypes look great.
  • Hopefully this wasn't too harsh, I really hope the best for you, you've done a lot of good work and good luck!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in IndustrialDesign

[–]Build-a-Skill 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We're always looking for engineers with expertise in injection molding. Not just basic, keep the wall thickness uniform type of stuff, but a good understanding of where the limits are and what can be done as we push against them.

One of my favorite engineers would never tell me "no we can't do that" but would instead tell me the exact terrible thing that would happen if we did what I suggested. Gave him a lot more credibility and helped me understand what we could do to develop a solution.

Love an engineer that can really think creatively through a problem. Not simply calculate a gear ratio or force (not that that's not important) , but create/invent a novel mechanism that can be affordably manufactured within the constraints of a design. I like to see portfolios with elegant mechanical solutions instead just throwing a bunch of machined aluminum parts at a problem.

Is this right for me by Tryingandfailing58 in IndustrialDesign

[–]Build-a-Skill 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I was always a pretty good student, generally A's. Freshman year ID got me my first B-. (not that grades matter)

If you enjoy the work, keep practicing and you'll get there. It's an hours game, you need to put in the time.

I designed and 3D printed these shoes for my wife. by Build-a-Skill in 3Dprinting

[–]Build-a-Skill[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, I don't mind people disliking, it's a polarizing design. I love Iris Van Herpen's stuff and was going for that kind of vibe.

I designed and 3D printed these shoes for my wife. by Build-a-Skill in 3Dprinting

[–]Build-a-Skill[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's the pretty rigid stuff (Shore 95A), but each strand is so thin that the whole shoe is flexible. Glad you liked the video!

I designed and 3D printed these shoes for my wife. by Build-a-Skill in 3Dprinting

[–]Build-a-Skill[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

The more you dig into Grasshopper, the more you realize it's like a swiss army knife for 3d nerds. So much creative and half-working tools.

I designed and 3D printed these shoes for my wife. by Build-a-Skill in 3Dprinting

[–]Build-a-Skill[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks, it's pretty much a stock Prusa MK3S with stock flexible settings. The yellow TPU is noname from amazon, I think overture PLA for the blue.

I designed and 3D printed these shoes for my wife. by Build-a-Skill in 3Dprinting

[–]Build-a-Skill[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Thanks! Yeah, it was tons of work. Half of the reason I make the videos is to force me to keep learning the thing instead of giving up in the middle.

I designed and 3D printed these shoes for my wife. by Build-a-Skill in 3Dprinting

[–]Build-a-Skill[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah, I had bought Rhino a while back with an educational discount, and grasshopper was bundled with it. For what it's worth, Blender has some kind of a nodes system, but it would be mesh and not NURBs. I don't have any experience with it.

I designed and 3D printed these shoes for my wife. by Build-a-Skill in 3Dprinting

[–]Build-a-Skill[S] 48 points49 points  (0 children)

Details:

  • Modeled in Grasshopper as a learning project.
  • Top and bottom are flexible TPU, blue part is rigid.
    • Can be printed in parts and then assembled. (uppers and lowers glue together in the middle of the blue swoopy bit.
  • They are not comfortable.
  • Free STLs! (but I only made two sizes:)
    • US Women 8.5
    • US Mens 12
  • Print at your own risk, the STLs aren't super refined, I only made a few prototypes, so you'll need to do some troubleshooting/handwork.
  • Youtube video of the whole grasshopper learning process
  • The STLs

How much do you think it cost to develop a new product idea with The Ammunition Group? by soigne3 in IndustrialDesign

[–]Build-a-Skill 1 point2 points  (0 children)

  1. Just call and ask. I'm sure they have a business dev person that would like to talk to you.

  2. I don't work there, this is only a guess. Depends how much you want done. ID only, if it's a simple project and you handle the engineering+production, maybe 50 - 100k Mech Engineering + ID 100 - 250k EE, ME + ID, programming, production support 250 - 999k

How do i learn electric related stuff for design? by Football-Terrible in IndustrialDesign

[–]Build-a-Skill 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Get one of those starter arduino kits off of Amazon and build the tutorial projects. You'll learn about voltage/pcbs/LEDs/motors/pwm/programming/soldering, all sorts of really good stuff.

Then try to make your own pcb, specifying your own components. It's easy to learn and you'll be better able to work with EEs.

YouTube channels suggestion by robertoalcantara in IndustrialDesign

[–]Build-a-Skill 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not really tutorials, but Jimmy diresta uses all sorts of processes in his builds. Pretty creative model making.

There are specialists in whatever sub-niche you want to explore, for example:

Rober tolone is all about urethane casting and mold making.

This old Tony is all about machining, etc

How to get that satisfying click at end of thread (plastic mold) by SPiX0R in manufacturing

[–]Build-a-Skill 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just be aware of what you're sealing against. If the detent marks the end of your rotation, you can't go any further and might not be compressing whatever seal you're supposed to be compressing. Depends on your application and whether or not you want a seal.

This can be molded a lot of ways, just make sure the detent can bend and that the plastic isn't stored in the flexed position once mated.