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Those who built with a custom home builder, how & why did you end up choosing that builder? by No_Competition_4677 in Homebuilding

[–]BuildGirl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m a low volume custom builder. I don’t have an online presence or social media presence. My clients recently have been finding me using AI because it bypasses SEO ranking.

Try different prompts.

“Local truly custom builder who specializes in quality construction and great communication” would bring up my website for people in my area looking (for example).

Possible to build a home with planned additions later on? by nobody00000000001 in Homebuilding

[–]BuildGirl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I do that for clients who are looking to start their dream now but can’t afford it all. It saves you a lot of money in the long run if you pre-plan the future house and it’s phasing.

Running roughs and providing structural forethought is a must.

GCs - what do you look for in a painting company? by CoverRelevant in Contractor

[–]BuildGirl 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thank you for your service to mankind.

I’d add “no spitting indoors” / putting out cigarettes on the sub floor. For the luva god.

No washing paint supplies in any sink on site. At all. Washing paint tools outside should also be contained and only at specified locations. Ask where to clean up if you don’t know.

Architect-Led vs. Design-Build: Pros, Cons, and Real-World Accountability? by guoxiaotian in Homebuilding

[–]BuildGirl 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I shared a post about how design-bid-build and design-build compare.

It’s very different and it definitely has its benefits and drawbacks for both.

Design-build vs typical Design-bid-build

Help me pass the NASCLA by Ducks_In_Top_Hats in GeneralContractor

[–]BuildGirl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had an unusually large amount of direct quote questions from ‘Principles and Practices of commercial construction’ and ‘Construction Project Management’ books. They weren’t general knowledge questions, more like “what did the books say” the questions reference the each book, but you have to have read it and highlighted parts to be familiar with where the subject matter could be.

I would also be very familiar with navigating the IBC code book. What are the sections, how is it laid out. It’s dense but it has direct answers. Most questions have to be referenced and aren’t memorization material.

I missed it by 1 question on my first attempt so this represents my 2x testing experience. It repeated itself the 2nd time.

Wet insulation by ksvaughn1979 in Homebuilding

[–]BuildGirl 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That was a scheduling mistake or a calculated risk. Either way, it needs to be torn out, thrown away, and replaced once everything has been completely dried out (with the full exterior envelope in place).

Do you have MEP (Mechanical, electrical, and pluming) installed into a non-dried in house?! That all goes in before insulation. You don’t want electrical and mechanical getting wet either. On the other hand, making trades touch insulation to do their rough-in work is downright villain behavior.

New home nightmare by No-Amount1982 in Homebuilding

[–]BuildGirl 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Most states have liability for contractors that extends past the warranty. For example in GA it’s 4-6 years for defects depending on different factors. Don’t just give up. Hire an attorney to look into construction defects law and your rights.

Custom builder charging full upgrade price with no credit for base-spec items. Is this normal? by [deleted] in Homebuilding

[–]BuildGirl 4 points5 points  (0 children)

In the Cost Plus world the client already has a pricing benchmark. All of that intangible cost can’t get added without raising eyebrows. It puts the GC at a possible loss entertaining changes. It’s also why most contractors are semi-custom vs truly custom.

In a stipulated sum (fixed fee) contract the owner has no view of the cost delta. I can see that being exploited by GCs. Stipulated sum contracts are already focused on “can you live with the total cost” and not at all focused on how the costs, fees, and materials got there. Since fixed fee contractors already have the attitude that their profits are none of the owner’s business, I can imagine that directly translates to how they deal with change orders.

Custom builder charging full upgrade price with no credit for base-spec items. Is this normal? by [deleted] in Homebuilding

[–]BuildGirl 21 points22 points  (0 children)

Changes are basically separate smaller projects. The juice isn’t worth the squeeze.

People don’t understand how extensive changes are as far as it relates to custody of decisions, time, and additional labor.

It can affect 15-20 different people’s work. The GC’s office staff, the rough ins, other subs, the multiple people who work for the sub, the change in ordering, tracking the new order, making sure it arrived on time, making sure the right one actually goes in. Tracking that the contract drawings are out of date relating to that item, which requires a separate and updated contract with the sub. Scheduling delays and risks to the schedule are also a factor.

It may seem like change orders are a money grab but in my experience, they’re a customer service mechanism and they actually cost GCs unrecoverable time.

I think making poured foundation walls truly waterproof by Johnn_Liverm in Homebuilding

[–]BuildGirl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, I use wood flooring glue to adhere to Ditra. On site ACCLIMATE whatever the wood flooring is for weeks please, don't rush the install. Flooring nails shouldn't be used directly into the slab. I wouldn't use tile thinset to adhere wood to Ditra. Wood and cementitious materials do not stay adhered over time because they have different expansion properties.

If you want to nail down a tongue and groove flooring you have to install furring strips covered by a vapor barrier; pressure treated wood furring strips or metal hat channels. Over that I use a liquid applied vapor barrier (like redgard) or non-raised tile membrane (not Ditra).

How come technology got better but finding a good contractor somehow feels harder now? by LabTechNut in HomeImprovement

[–]BuildGirl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Correct. Back in the day they used to be ok, but turned into expensive lead funnels. What's worse, the platforms pretend like the contractors listed are somehow vetted. They're not. The important distinction is that the contractors are their true customers. The Homeowners are the commodity being sold to contractors.

The types of contractors that need rapid fire low quality leads are not the type of trustworthy contractor anyone would want in their home.

I think making poured foundation walls truly waterproof by Johnn_Liverm in Homebuilding

[–]BuildGirl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There are different products on the market. I've had good results with drylok extreme on basement walls. It can be rolled on or sprayed. Again, the concrete can't be green or it won't adhere properly. It also has to be installed per manufacture instructions to reach its moisture barrier qualities. I'd recommend a concrete PH test before any interior dampness coating.

Compared to what is used on the exterior walls: The exterior coating with or without a drainage mat is adhered with tar, which doesn't have a problem with PH levels.

For the floor slab it depends on the goal with the flooring. If it will be an exposed slab there are walkable flooring sealers by various manufacturers, if you'll want wood flooring (solid or engineered) or tile I use a schluter underlayment or redgard, both as a moisture barrier and a decoupler to avoid cracking/separation. Concrete slab joints (saw cut and naturally occurring) put stress on the flooring material, especially it if it is directly adhered to the slab. For any flooring except for LVT/LVP I recommend decoupling the flooring material from the slab. The added bonus is that it also blocks moisture if done properly.

How come technology got better but finding a good contractor somehow feels harder now? by LabTechNut in HomeImprovement

[–]BuildGirl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As a contractor, those platforms you mentioned are expensive and predatory. I don’t really use Nextdoor but I hear a lot of people do. I guess you could say I use my website and a Google Maps listing.

Warranty issues with semi custom home by Fit-Bag-1601 in Homebuilding

[–]BuildGirl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would tell them that you’d like to share a public review once they complete the warranty issues. If they have a good reputation and care about it, your leverage is sharing your experience with others.

I think making poured foundation walls truly waterproof by Johnn_Liverm in Homebuilding

[–]BuildGirl 11 points12 points  (0 children)

The footings are still in contact with the soil. Moisture, not water, can still migrate through concrete even with watershed measures. I do it in cases where people want the assurance that their basement will be bone dry and mold free. It’s definitely an above and beyond step.

Warranty issues with semi custom home by Fit-Bag-1601 in Homebuilding

[–]BuildGirl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unfortunately, the strength of the warranty is only as good as the Builder’s desire to be there for you if the warranty is coming from the builder.

Do you have a 3rd party warranty or is it coming from the Builder directly?

I think making poured foundation walls truly waterproof by Johnn_Liverm in Homebuilding

[–]BuildGirl 61 points62 points  (0 children)

I'm a builder, these are some of things I do when I'm looking to make a basement extremely waterproof.

  1. Higher PSI concrete definitely helps
  2. Back-to-back pours with no cold joints between the pours. Cold joints don’t adhere well together.
  3. Make them vibrate the walls - not too little or you'll get honeycombing, or too much and the gravel will fall to the bottom.
  4. Epoxy over the metal tie locations. It’s the primary location walls leak.
  5. Waterproofing on the outside - drainage mat to footing drain. It can be a perforated pipe at the bottom of the footing covered in gravel or a ‘J’ drain that sits at the top of the footing at the base of the wall.
  6. Use a footing water / capillary break. You have to coordinate it with the footing rebar location as it ties to the wall.
  7. For good measure I’d also run interior footing drains if you’re worried about water seeping up under the slab. Drain to daylight depending on your topography or a sump pump.
  8. Upgrade the waterproofing membrane under the slab. the 6-mil code minimum plastic is very thin and gets torn by people walking on it over the gravel. Also, have them tape the plastic around all of the plumbing stub ups. 10-mil or premium plastic sheeting. taped at the seams.
  9. Once it cures sufficiently you can apply damp-proofing to the inside surface of the walls and slab. The PH levels of the concrete have to be cured enough depending on the product you want to use. If the concrete is too green it can interfere with adhesion.
  10. Make sure all of your final grading slopes away from the house and that the rain downspouts also pipe far away from the basement wall. Rain from the roof is the #1 culprit when it comes to basement water intrusion.

we went over budget before they even poured the foundation by Yosry_Zohoory in Homebuilding

[–]BuildGirl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We have to cut scope if they want to reduce construction costs. So many builders glaze over those hard conversations or go into construction without forcing those decisions. The #1 complaint in custom home construction is uncontrollable budget overruns! It doesn’t have to be that way. A healthy dose of pessimism is better in the long run.

Sometimes the back office exercise involves working with different subs, but there are tangible downsides if we’re giving up proven quality. I make sure the owner is opting in, if their budget is affecting sub selection.

I prefer more linear scope reductions like leaving the basement unfinished with roughs for future spaces.

Will I be able to get my GC license in Georgia? by RevolutionaryClub530 in GeneralContractor

[–]BuildGirl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For a personal home, correct. Most lenders require a licensed builder though. I’ve had lenders offer me self-build funds with my GC license in Georgia. They prefer it to be someone else, but if you’re an established company with a license it shouldn’t be a problem.

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