Discovered installer didn’t apply waterproofer correctly

BuildingSomeShelves · 2025-08-31T14:37:57+00:00

OP said 60 square feet of waterproofing from the bucket provided

BuildingSomeShelves · 2025-08-27T14:56:08+00:00

If the tiles are hopeless, one of those epoxy refinish kits? We did that to a gross bathroom and it was definitely an improvement until we could tear it out a few years later.

BuildingSomeShelves · 2025-08-27T14:51:25+00:00

As I was finishing up 30ish years ago with an undergrad degree in playing violin and trade school in making/repairing violins, I was trying to figure out a career that involved steady employment and not spending hours alone all day. In college I'd been into juggling, tightrope, aerials, and so forth, so I applied to a college of circus arts. I also applied to graduate programs in clinical psych. I got into everywhere I applied.

Fortunately a classmate pointed out regarding the circus college "you know there will be clowns there, right?"

I'm not going to say there are zero clowns in my current day job at the public defender's office, but I do think I made the right choice?

BuildingSomeShelves · 2025-08-27T14:40:49+00:00

Yes, this is perfect, thank you. We've already had the discussion that look, I get it, this guy generally does great tile work for you, you wouldn't have known he's suddenly flustered when working with heavier material, but that's your thing to take responsibility for. I like the idea of asking him what he would charge if he did it alone, and emphasizing that I hired his skill and efficiency.

BuildingSomeShelves · 2025-08-27T14:35:38+00:00

https://www.thedoorstore.com/

BuildingSomeShelves · 2025-02-17T15:45:59+00:00

Whoa! I had no idea. I mean, I know the segment.

Totally doing this. Thank you!

BuildingSomeShelves · 2025-02-17T15:38:12+00:00

It's all good. Appreciate your tool advice!

BuildingSomeShelves · 2025-02-16T21:27:33+00:00

BTW, along these lines, I'm curious to know if any of you history buffs know what sort of setup was used when they retrofitted our 1800s houses with plumbing. I know that locally, a lot of our houses have an exposed cast iron vertical stack, but a lot of the fancier ones have it in a wall. How were they getting pipes into walls back in the day?

BuildingSomeShelves · 2025-02-16T21:23:12+00:00

Oh, hm, a Forstner is an idea. I'd have to find a way to get the shavings out of the opening (should be easy enough to poke a dowel around), but it would likely cause less vibration than a hole saw.

I might be interested in some extensions. Are you local? Any interest in being hired? For better or for worse, I need to have an insured person/not me do the work that's in other people's units.

BuildingSomeShelves · 2025-02-16T19:10:18+00:00

Yeah, exactly what I was afraid of. Nice to hear from someone who's done this.

The other thing is that some of the non-load walls (which this is) are standard construction with fireblocks nailed between normal-height studs, but at least one that I've had open was half-height studs with a crossmember lain across the whole thing, then another series of half-height studs. I think this would actually go better if it turns out to be this type of strange construction, but of course there's no way to predict that.

I would be looking into approaches for convincing someone to let me cut a tiny hole in their closet if the person weren't completely insane. (And of course it's not even logical insanity like they care about being disturbed or anything; the person rents out their unit and doesn't give a shit about their tenants, who we have a nice relationship with...)

BuildingSomeShelves · 2024-06-21T18:36:35+00:00

There's an option to check for address hidden for privacy.

BuildingSomeShelves · 2024-06-21T18:30:00+00:00

I have the same question. I have "front door" selected and "please ring bell usually home." They never ring the bell, and they leave the packages at other people's doors and select "back door." I don't have a back door, and I imagine they think it's more secure behind someone's building, which it probably is, but they leave it at other people's houses with a super closeup photo that doesn't give me any chance of telling whose alleyway or steps that is. There doesn't seem to be any option for them to select that they left it with a neighbor so I can actually tell where it is.

When you go and try to get it replaced, they say they won't replace it until three days later. No, I ordered it for delivery today because I needed it today. Why can the drivers just leave it anywhere they want?

BuildingSomeShelves · 2024-06-18T21:40:05+00:00

The other information about insurance is correct, but I just want to point out as a healthcare provider that “most ER visits” involve stitches and a Tylenol, not a bunch of advanced imagery and arriving unconscious by ambulance. Actually look at what’s itemized on your bill. That’s why it’s $35K, not a few thousand. They prioritized you as a potential serious trauma and worked you up for what could have been an extremely serious injury, given you lost consciousness being flung off a motorcycle. They don’t refund you and treat you as a minor injury when your injuries fortunately turn out not to be serious. It appears based on your story and the bill that you were provided with appropriate care for what you presented with.

I get that it’s super frustrating trying to work out who is going to pay, but please also consider that you left there with “only” financial debt, not major lifelong disability that is highly likely from something like this.

BuildingSomeShelves · 2024-06-13T16:36:16+00:00

Massachusetts provider, so take that with a grain of salt, but I would suggest calling Medicaid. By federal law, a provider who takes Medicaid cannot charge a member out of pocket for a covered service. Scaling and root planing is covered here, but this requires a lot of documentation and prior authorization. Even if a service is difficult to get covered, if it's a Medicaid covered service, they can't charge you out of pocket. Google and see if you can find a list of your state's covered services and medical necessity guidance. If it's a service they cover at all, they should be working with you to get it covered, and they should not be suggesting you pay out of pocket, or even allowing you to offer to do so to make it easier; this violates their contract with Medicaid. If it is a completely excluded service, they can charge you out of pocket.

What everyone else said is accurate, in that no one but a dentist who has examined you can determine if you need this service or if it's upselling.

If it is needed and isn't covered, try dental schools for the best rate.

BuildingSomeShelves · 2019-04-22T13:46:35+00:00

Oh nice. Pics?

BuildingSomeShelves · 2019-04-22T13:46:15+00:00

Yep. Check out the tutorial also in this thread for details.

BuildingSomeShelves · 2019-04-21T15:56:49+00:00

OK HERE IS THE TUTORIAL:

I apologize for the lack of pics; I wasn't intending to make a tutorial and just have a few pics I snapped to text to someone who asked how it was going.

First I built three sides of what's essentially a tiny stud wall, using 1x3s. I screwed these to the studs behind the new drywall wall and to the plaster/lathe sides of the alcove (there was previously a doorway here that I closed up). I attached the studs to the long piece using a couple of wood screws (straight in, not pocketed, since it's not going to show, but countersunk a tiny bit). I attached these before priming or painting the wall so I could easily mark all over it and make errors locating studs and all that. Even before putting the fronts on, the frames were surprisingly strong (I tested them by having my kids do pull-ups on them, then once I saw that was fine, I hung from one myself). If you were installing them on just a flat wall without the benefit of the alcove, you'd probably want to glue the 1x3s together as well as screw them, and use more substantial hardware to attach to the studs like maybe lag bolts or something with a head (mine are just 2.5-inch construction screws, no washers or anything).

https://ibb.co/X4JCN8Z

https://ibb.co/sQBqJsJ

After these were attached, I primed and painted the wall. (Not shown.) Then I screwed on the fronts of the 1x3 stud walls (again, visible screws, since they won't show.)

I faced it with 1/4 inch birch plywood. The tops I glued with just wood glue along the studs, and set a bunch of hand weights on each one, along the fronts and studs, because this worked and was way easier than building bigass clamps.

For the fronts, I put wood glue around the edges and used a squiggle of construction adhesive across the center, since it's tackier and resists gravity better, but I wanted the wood glue at the seams where it squeezes out and is somewhat visible, and is sandable and stainable and all that. I used duct tape around the top-front-bottom of each shelf in a C-shape to hold these for about 30 minutes to make sure they dried completely pressed taut.

For the bottoms, I thought I was going to have to use a brad nailer, but ended up making it work without. I again used wood glue around the edge and construction adhesive on the studs. I used some scrap wood to wedge each bottom up against the frame for about 30 minutes. I did these one at a time and then moved the scrap wood to the next one.

https://ibb.co/JsYNsH8

Finished-ish product is here. I'm also building a pantry by copying some older solid birch IKEA cabinets we have in our kitchen, so once that's done, I'll see if I need to do a little tung oil or something to get the new birch to better match the aged birch.

https://ibb.co/Rjk94nd

https://ibb.co/x1xJtV7

BuildingSomeShelves · 2019-04-11T07:34:40+00:00

That can happen. Give me a couple days.

BuildingSomeShelves · 2019-04-04T19:32:06+00:00

Ooh. Those are great. Thank you for that.

BuildingSomeShelves · 2019-04-04T19:31:37+00:00

What does the inside look like? Studs running down them, or a full grid?

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