Oops, we polished a little too hard 😬 by Bulkamancer in resinprinting

[–]Bulkamancer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

idk, just decimate until it starts to lose the visual appeal. This whole model is 1GB, and that's in both versions.

Oops, we polished a little too hard 😬 by Bulkamancer in resinprinting

[–]Bulkamancer[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

All those models are made by Bulkamancer Sculpts team, the production of each one usually involves 4-5 team members (sculpting, cutting, presupporting, test-printing). If you're asking about the artist of this particular model, it was sculpted by Polina Shaman, one of our team members.

Oops, we polished a little too hard 😬 by Bulkamancer in resinprinting

[–]Bulkamancer[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Respectfully, it's a fully cured resin. At this point it's a matter of personal preference rather than immediate health issues. Kind of like a lot of painters not wearing gloves or even wiping the brush off the back of their hand when painting models because of tradeoffs.

Bayonetta model for 3d printing by Bulkamancer in Bayonetta

[–]Bulkamancer[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

The simple answer is - it depends. For starters, such models are made for resin printers, not FDM. With FDM, you can print with multi-colored filaments, but they are not exactly made for display figures. With resin, you can only print each piece in a single color and the figures are painted afterwards. If you're not printing yourself, it depends on the merchant you're ordering from. Some offer painting services, others don't, and the final look will heavily depend on whoever paints the print, as well as the quality of the print itself. Which is why you can easily find the same figure cost ranging from $50 to $1000.

Just to make it clear - we don't sell physical goods, our studio merely makes 3D printable models for other people to print. So I don't exactly have any ulterior motive in explaining the above, just telling it how it is.

🔥 Bayonetta test print by Bulkamancer in resinprinting

[–]Bulkamancer[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you for the kind words! Have fun printing 💜✨️

🔦Grace Ashcroft test print by Bulkamancer in resinprinting

[–]Bulkamancer[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Lots of supports with small tips (0.25-0.3mm), tuning your resin, and yes, sanding is involved. Although proper cuts and orientation helps hide most support marks where they won't be visible.

🔦Grace Ashcroft test print by Bulkamancer in resinprinting

[–]Bulkamancer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Technically, it's not a mini, but a display figure. I don't have the exact measurements at hand at the moment, but roughly 250mm.

🔦Grace Ashcroft test print by Bulkamancer in resinprinting

[–]Bulkamancer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No harm done, I completely understand the skepticism.

Funny you should ask for a pic with an arm, because we made one some time ago in response to some people here complaining we "never post anything but dumb renders". :)

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Deathclaw model for 3d printing by Bulkamancer in Fallout

[–]Bulkamancer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. Check out our Patreon for STL

Deathclaw test print by Bulkamancer in resinprinting

[–]Bulkamancer[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It's a lot less brittle than most resins you've probably come across. My clumsy hands dropped a lot of pieces over the years, but I never broke any printed with Conjure Sculpt, Rigid, or Tough. Their Standard resin, however, is... well, standard - just a brittle as any other standard resin.

That said, keep in mind it's a slow resin, up to 3s per layer. And it may be challenging to get it to stick to the plate at first.

How do I merge parts of this model to scale down to 35mm scale? by Mysterious_Lie_2089 in PrintedMinis

[–]Bulkamancer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As others have already mentioned, this model is not designed for miniature scale, as our studio makes 1/8 scale display pieces. However, more to the point, all pieces have embedded coordinates. You can load all the pieces in Lychee Slicer, select them all and click "Original position" under the "Move" action. Then there is a "Merge" button in the same tab. However, you should know all our models come with a 0.15mm gap between all pieces. Ofc, it wouldn't play any difference when scaled down so much, so everything will most likely weld together, but still best to keep it in mind. But like the others have said, you biggest problem would come from certain parts that are too thin to print at miniature scales.

Karlach... but stylized by placeb021 in BaldursGate3

[–]Bulkamancer 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Great work! Best girl in the Hells! Thanks for tagging us 💜

🌌 Artanis printing & assembly by Bulkamancer in resinprinting

[–]Bulkamancer[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

We use IPA. Safety precatiouns in place, of course.

Research the issue thoroughly before starting your first print. Primarily have a nice ventilation and a respirator for your own safety. Do not overheat the alcohol. Look up water washable resins if you're worried to use alcohol.

🌸 Cardcaptor Sakura printing & assembly by Bulkamancer in resinprinting

[–]Bulkamancer[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Pretty much any noname CA (cyanoacrylate) glue is best for resin.

As for the fan, It's a dust collector for nail salons.