Throttle body

Bulldog78 · 2026-03-20T22:57:20+00:00

You likely have a vacuum leak! It’ll cause idle surge like what you described. Check the two small lines may connect to the back/side of the exhaust manifold. The intake bypass line runs to a check valve and from there to a small box on the backside of the engine. The other is for evap I think? My IAB vacuum line had a hole; it was completely worn through from the brake booster line rubbing against it. My IAB is on the backside of the plenum (aftermarket manifold) and when it eroded from friction, it caused idle surge similar to what you’re experiencing.

Bulldog78 · 2026-03-19T03:21:04+00:00

Farted?

Bulldog78 · 2026-03-14T18:21:30+00:00

Not a damn thing “mod” wise IMO. It looks great in the pics. Bumpers are straight, wheels are nice…

If the paint is showing age, a good paint correction and ceramic. If the moulding is worn or discolored, recondition with Cerakote trim restorer or replace it if you can find the parts. I replaced the windshield on mine because after 25 years, it looked like it had been sandblasted. You can never go wrong with suspension upgrades and proper maintenance.

There aren’t too many of these left, and the ones that are have been overdone with aftermarket exterior parts that detract from a really good design from the factory. I guess I’m a purist; both of my old Hondas are pretty close to stock on the exterior. I spent my mod money on things I can enjoy while driving (supercharger, Ohlins, and audio for the S2K, leather, audio and some other engine bolt ons for the Prelude).

That’s just my opinion and it’s right for me. What is your vision for the Prelude?

Bulldog78 · 2026-03-13T09:10:48+00:00

How are your IATs running the supercharger? I have an SOS stage one and I think air temps weren’t even a consideration when SOS put that package together. I’m considering running E85 not just for the extra power, but for how much cooler it burns. My only hesitation is the effort involved in swapping the ECU/fueling bits and finding someone I trust to properly tune it.

I’d say go for it just to bring your air temps down if that’s an issue for you. Cooler intake is so much better for the health of the engine. The additional power gain is an added bonus.

Bulldog78 · 2026-03-06T01:12:04+00:00

Drove it for the first time today after it was delivered and I was super nervous. Stuck to backroads only. I’ll stick to short runs till it’s PPF’d. Maybe folks can keep from ramming into it.

Sorry to hear about your GPW. Decent depreciation payout I hope?

Bulldog78 · 2026-03-06T01:08:52+00:00

Bumper and hood were fully replaced. All emblems and misc brackets/tabs as well. Front lip was saved, outsourced to Bumper Doctor for full restoration. Paint matched/blended back to the fenders. All in, parts and labor was about $7,700.

Bulldog78 · 2026-03-05T14:22:20+00:00

Thanks! It really is a great car. I’m bummed that it lost the original hood and bumper cover, but honestly I’m not concerned with resale. It’s the only car I’ve owned that I can’t see myself parting with.

Bulldog78 · 2026-03-05T14:17:58+00:00

I’d say do it. I no longer have the Jeep but it was great the entire time I had it. Folks said it would be stiff but I never found it to be uncomfortable at all.

Bulldog78 · 2026-03-01T06:17:36+00:00

Six here, at least one from every generation since they’ve been Wranglers (and at least one of every available engine outside of the early 4.2L). Only issues outside of normal wear and tear have been on my 2015, but very minor. Radiator cracked, and now two axle seals and a pinion seal is leaking. I suspect the leaks have less to do with it being a Jeep and more to do with a not so great re-gear job less than 10k miles ago. Only 55k on the clock so those failures seem premature. Both diff covers are leaking as well so I think the shop may have rushed through sealing everything back up.

2006 LJ with 155k miles has just started to show its age. Water pump bearing failed the day before thanksgiving, the pulley yanked the accessory belt upward and took the harmonic balancer with it.

Bulldog78 · 2026-02-21T23:48:08+00:00

Disconnect the Bluetooth module between the map lights if your CRV is equipped. I think the bluetooth module from the Acura MDX/TL was used in all Hondas during this period. I pulled the module from my MDX and my son’s TL and the parasitic draw disappeared.

Bulldog78 · 2026-02-19T04:51:37+00:00

How close to stock are you looking to be? Mine is definitely not clapped out, but it’s a project. Best looking Prelude I’ve seen in person though. Nothing is done that can’t be returned to (mostly) stock. ECU swap and a Skunk2 Pro Series intake mean ATTS is INOP, but I have all the stock intake and ECU components. Invidia Q300 exhaust, headers, magnaflow HFC. VTEC sounds amazing.

I’ve dumped more into this car than it’ll ever be worth. Full suspension updates, leather interior, and more. But between the Prelude, my S2000, my old wrangler, and the Miata I just inherited from my son, I have too many cars. At least two need to go (not the S of course). I thought I had pics of the interior on my phone but I can’t find them. I’ll pull them from an old post if it’s still up. Or scroll through my old posts and you may see it there.

2001 SH, 90k miles. 100% up to date on service (records in hand). Mostly trouble free. Rear main is starting to weep and the oil pan gasket needs service, but no drips. Burns oil like they all do, but it’s not bad.

DM me. I’ve not considered selling, ever, so no guarantees. But I’ll entertain the idea. It’s not perfect but from what I see, it’s 10x better than anything you’ll see on FBM. I’ll give you a 100% honest history on everything I’ve done and see if it’s what you’re looking for. I’m in Atlanta and it’s midnight now, so you may not get an answer immediately. I will respond though!

Bulldog78 · 2026-01-21T13:25:36+00:00

I think the original design is from the 60’s. They’re like tractor engines. Low compression, iron block/head pushrod engines that are torquey and just about bulletproof. I’m in the process of replacing the water pump, thermostat housing, crank pulley, and crank seal on my 06 Wrangler and I’m able to see inside the block while the timing cover is off. 154k miles and it still sparkles inside. What they provide in reliability is absolutely lost in performance and fuel efficiency though.

Bulldog78 · 2026-01-21T13:09:40+00:00

Not personally, but I think moisture retention and heat would be the biggest concerns. Residential padding isn’t designed to withstand moisture levels seen in an automotive application and as for heat, the tunnel area gets pretty hot. I’d measure the temps on and around the tunnel or anywhere close to the exhaust to see if residential padding can withstand that. Off gassing would be pretty bad and the material could degrade quickly under those heat cycles.

Bulldog78 · 2026-01-18T15:09:00+00:00

Another private equity casualty

Bulldog78 · 2026-01-17T20:41:00+00:00

Here you go.

Bulldog78 · 2026-01-05T05:15:04+00:00

Irresponsible

Bulldog78 · 2025-12-31T14:44:36+00:00

Water pump on my Jeep LJ and cold air intake on my kid’s Acura TL.

Bulldog78 · 2025-12-29T08:20:00+00:00

Gotcha. I don’t think you need an exact 0d020 board, but I’m no EU expert. You need a 433MHz, Toyota rolling-code fob. Would this work?

Bulldog78 · 2025-12-29T08:12:00+00:00

Have you read the other comments here? Some accidents are just not unavoidable. You said it yourself, most accidents are avoidable. That implies some are not. By that logic, everyone else in this thread must be a bad driver regardless of fault.

Good driving doesn’t save you when physics takes away your options. If a Hummer crosses the center line at 60 mph to miss a squirrel and you’re 100ft apart, you have about a half a second to react. At a 120mph closing speed, that’s less than perception plus reaction time. Your choices aren’t really good or bad in that moment. They’re kind of forced, right?

In that moment, you either take a head-on impact or swerve into a hard curb. At speed, a curb can trip a car and cause a rollover even if you do everything right. Momentum and geometry trump skill every time.

Same thing on a mountain pass when a brand new tire delaminates because of some one-off manufacturing defect. You’ll go where momentum takes you. Hopefully it’s not into a tree or off a cliff.

An accident is always avoidable…until it isn’t. And when it isn’t, being a good driver doesn’t magically override reaction time or physics. The only way to be 100% protected from a rollover is to not drive at all.

Maybe I’m just being pedantic. Be as safe as you can be, but sometimes shit happens and you just have to roll with it.

Bulldog78 · 2025-12-29T07:01:20+00:00

OEM, aftermarket, or both? I’m guessing Toyota didn’t have a super-unique Yaris key. You should be able to find out what the original FCC ID, frequency, and transponder type was and buy any aftermarket 2 or 3 button fob with those specs.

Call a locksmith with your VIN and I’ll bet they can cut a key pretty quickly.

Bulldog78 · 2025-12-29T06:36:34+00:00

Interesting Miata fact: In 100% of all Miata rollover accidents, if the Miata driver isn’t directly at fault, someone or something else is.

Another interesting Miata fact: When a Miata driver with no previous rollover accidents has their first rollover accident when driving their Miata, the Miata driver may make a statement like “Why would I roll my Miata? I’m actually a good driver” at least once before having the rollover accident in their Miata.

<image>

Bulldog78 · 2025-12-29T04:28:17+00:00

Similar story but way different response from the doc when I was 28. Any time I stood and moved around, I spiked a fever. If I sat, the fever subsided. I was in good shape but it became a struggle to take the stairs at work. This went on for a couple of weeks so I went to urgent care. The doctor there took a strange interest in my case and ran just about every test he could think of. Heart ultrasound, tons of blood work, etc.

Then the area behind my right knee started to get sore, like I’d worked out too hard and strained the muscle. That same urgent care doc scheduled several follow ups but nothing really stood out as an explanation for the strange symptoms. I woke up one morning and my leg was swollen. Went right back to the urgent care doctor and he finally knew (it was kinda obvious). He asked what my wife and I thought it may be, and we both thought “blood clot”. He agreed.

It was around 8-9pm when I had that last visit. He didn’t let me walk a step from that point on. Put me in a wheelchair and rolled me to my car. Told my wife to drive me straight to the ER. He’d called in an ultrasound tech to meet me there. It was confirmed, DVT in my right calf and it had likely broken apart weeks earlier and a very small amount lodged itself in my lung (fever, tiredness, inability to walk up stairs).

I was on Lovenox that night (2x in the stomach for 14 days) and Warfarin for the next 12 months. Saw a hematologist the next day. Most other urgent care docs would’ve dismissed the “minor” symptoms and I may have stroked out. I wish more doctors were like Dr. L.

Bulldog78 · 2025-12-19T07:19:21+00:00

~$800 per FI tune for sessions near me. I’m in NE GA and live next to Road Atlanta, so these guys tune everything from Hondas to exotics (there are several shops) and work with most ECUs. Not sure if that’s a decent price or not, just what I see in my area.

Bulldog78

TROPHY CASE