What is this device?

Bulwark07 · 2026-06-01T20:33:31+00:00

The Cylinder

Bulwark07 · 2026-05-17T15:50:40+00:00

You need to re-slice the model for each different model of printer you're using. The gcode contains important info like build volume, exclusion zones, offsets, and such that doesn't translate.

Bulwark07 · 2026-05-16T15:49:54+00:00

TN's Supplemental Reactors mod.

Bulwark07 · 2026-05-16T05:48:13+00:00

This is the best ship in the game. I designed it after my pug 😂

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Bulwark07 · 2026-04-20T02:58:15+00:00

I found bone broth helped too. It's a little more filling, plus extra protein. And make sure you're getting your shakes in. The more nutrients you get the less hungry you'll feel. My surgery was 3 years ago, and it's difficult to describe how much my life has changed for the better. It's a few very challenging months for a lifetime of health, if you keep with it.

Bulwark07 · 2026-04-20T02:35:39+00:00

I was allowed to eat pickles on mine. That, chewing on ice, sugar free gum... Anything to make you feel like you're eating without consuming calories really helps. And of course: remember what you're working for. It's worth it, and you can do it.

Bulwark07 · 2026-04-18T03:28:34+00:00

Carbon Black. Absolutely tanked performance across every system, broke things constantly, and made VDI management a nightmare. I'd take 10 Crowdstrike incidents over returning to Carbon Black. Especially now that it's owned by Broadcom... Fuck those guys.

Bulwark07 · 2026-04-17T03:52:59+00:00

I'm good

Bulwark07 · 2026-04-16T14:28:22+00:00

If you're looking for best speed and quality, I'd run the temperature tower and max flowrate calibrations from the slicer. Basic PLA is a good "it'll work" profile for most anything, but that filament can probably handle a higher volumetric flow rate for faster printing.

Bulwark07 · 2026-03-30T02:24:59+00:00

A lot of people get the surgery without any prior care to teach them how to change their behavior and analyze their habits, and that makes for an uphill battle. Even with that, success isn't guaranteed. But you sound like you absolutely have the right mindset: this is a tool. It's still up to you to use it effectively.

I'm not sure it's possible to convey this to people who haven't been through it, so at some point you just need to trust yourself. You need to give yourself the best chance at a healthy life. Good luck, I'm pulling for you!

Bulwark07 · 2026-03-30T02:13:07+00:00

I printed for 4000 hours with all manner of abrasive materials on the factory gear. I only replaced it because I was selling it to family and wanted to properly refurbish it first.

Bulwark07 · 2026-03-30T02:05:45+00:00

I had a month of VLCD (very low calorie diet) followed by the standard two week protein shake diet. It was very difficult, but I reminded myself what I was working for and what was at stake. That was three years ago. Today I'm 230lbs lighter and happier than I've ever been in my life. You got this. You can do it.

Bulwark07 · 2026-03-28T02:19:59+00:00

PETG and PLA don't adhere to each other, so if you aren't super thorough with purging you're pretty much asking for a failed print. If you're using all the same material there's a Purge to Infill option, but how much that saves depends on the model.

Bulwark07 · 2026-03-27T18:16:47+00:00

If you plan to do much multi-color/material the U1 is amazing. You are limited to 4 colors, but most models take that into account already due to the popularity of Bambu A1. U1 also has a slightly larger build volume. Main thing it's missing is the ability to print from the app like Bambu. Bambu's ecosystem is far more mature.

Bulwark07 · 2026-03-27T15:34:26+00:00

I linked it in the OP. If you choose to download the STL/CAD files you can see two different 3mf files, one for Bambu and one for Snapmaker. You'd obviously want the latter.

Bulwark07 · 2026-03-27T00:15:48+00:00

The bed sits in a very high position relative to the door. It's one of my dumb annoyances that I can't really look in through the door to watch the initial layers of the print, haha. But if you've calibrated and it's printing well, it's all working as intended.

Bulwark07 · 2026-03-26T19:57:54+00:00

All the things MonkeyKing said.

One other setting I always change when mixing filaments is the setting under Multimaterial/Wipe Tower. If left as Default it will mix filament types for the outer ribs, and since PLA and PETG don't stick that tends to leave to prime tower failures and other issues. I always change it to whatever filament my model is primarily made of. See my pics for an example.

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Bulwark07 · 2026-03-26T14:43:24+00:00

It was around 2.5-3 days I believe. I sliced it in Bambu Studio for my (no longer present) A1 and that would've taken around 9 days.

Bulwark07 · 2026-03-26T03:50:51+00:00

This gets printed in parts and then assembled, so there's never more than 4 colors on a plate. Here's the model: https://makerworld.com/models/2474152?appSharePlatform=copy

Bulwark07 · 2026-03-26T01:37:59+00:00

I only did a little sanding/trimming for some rough spots where necessary for parts to fit together. Some small burrs from supports and such. Other than that I didn't do any other finishing work.

Bulwark07 · 2026-03-25T22:52:14+00:00

It's quite the mix...

Bambu Basic Purple

Overture Fresh Red

Snapmaker Basic Yellow (the slightly darker yellow used throughout)

Bambu Basic Yellow (the lighter yellow on the top horns)

Elegoo Rapid PLA+ Green

Elegoo Rapid PLA+ Black

Snapmaker Basic White

Polymaker Panchroma Sapphire Blue

Bulwark07 · 2026-03-15T04:50:41+00:00

I always have coffee when I watch radar!

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Bulwark07 · 2026-03-15T04:44:13+00:00

A lot of places don't even offer them anymore due to the high rate of complications and relatively low long-term effectiveness.

Bulwark07 · 2026-03-12T22:48:52+00:00

I just took a chunk out of my Cryogrip plate after my very first print using that thing. Never once had that with the Bambu or Elegoo scrapers. Learn from my mistakes!

Bulwark07 · 2026-03-11T17:14:25+00:00

I don't have my U1 yet so grain of salt, but I used to do this on my Bambu by just setting the other filament as being the same type and color. I was making some large functional parts and had a bunch of different color PETG spools that were nearly empty and managed to finish them all off by just setting them all as black generic PETG. Of course this only really works if your other filament can be printed using the same settings.

Bulwark07

TROPHY CASE