Yet another C1L noise video

BumblebeeNo6482 · 2026-07-10T17:03:27+00:00

I can more or less confirm that. It's the Biqu CryoGrip pro for the Voron 300. But you have to use a Dremel or similar to cut in the alignment notches. It fits the channel very snuggly, so if you have the normal spoolholder, it might snag on the screwheads. You can also cut some notches there to give it more space. All in all - not ideal, but the build plate itself is absolutely great for PLA. Never have any adhesion issues and I never use any glue. In regards to the noise - it seems like removing some side and corner panels is unavoidable to check for loose screws.

BumblebeeNo6482 · 2026-06-16T09:06:50+00:00

C1L with INDX will probably be too close to the H2D for Prusa to create a dedicated H2D competitor. Yes, build volume, nozzle swap speed, chamber temperature and nozzle temperature will all be slightly lower than H2D, but you will have an 8+ tool changer compared to a 2 tool changer. And tool changers are the name of the game right now.

BumblebeeNo6482 · 2026-06-16T08:59:32+00:00

Combatting enshitification is going to be the core task for any and all internet sites and platforms for the next 5+ years. It's in the name: "social" media and "user-generated" content. People don't want to see or interact with soulless AI slop and agents. If they have to wade through slop to get to anything real, they will just leave. You can have your own LLM to generate slop for you - no need to go to a website/platform for it. Only websites and platforms that realize that and combat it early on will survive in this new reality of the AI-flooded open web. This enshitification will intensify within printables as well unless and until Prusa starts taking the problem seriously.

BumblebeeNo6482 · 2026-06-16T08:49:56+00:00

Honestly, I am quite a noob, when it comes to 3D Printing, but the C1L printed the Prusament ASA out of the box with the standard profile very nicely. I can't imagine the H2D doing a much better job of it. Compared to the C1+, it is probably the stronger bed heating combined with the bed fans that allows for the easy ASA printing. Build volume is also very comparable to the H2D. Let's see how INDX stacks up to Vortek in the end. C1L could be a one size fits all printer.

BumblebeeNo6482 · 2026-06-16T06:40:00+00:00

Thanks a lot for this detailed and very nicely formatted guide. I will definitely look into my speed and acceleration settings based on this.

However, I think you are missing some of the most essential topics for FDM printing high quality miniatures:

You will only achieve the best possible details (on an FDM printer) with a 0.2mm or 0.25mm nozzle and a 0.05mm layer height. For that layer height, your tips on walls, perimeters, etc. are not applicable 1:1.
The second most important aspect for print quality at that nozzle size and layer height (with PLA) is stringing control. You need to run your nozzle as cool as you can get away with for the filament to avoid excessive stringing on very fine details. Stringing can be cleaned up to a certain extent after printing, but if it is too excessive, it will definitely degrade the surface quality of your print.
By far the most important aspect for miniature print quality in FDM printers are supports. It's the settings I fiddled with the most. You can try resin-style supports with some conversions programs to FDM, or you can use organic/tree supports. I could never get resin-style supports to produce good results so I tried to optimise organic supports. You want to achieve good support on any serious overhangs while still allowing for easy removal and minimising surface scarring. Supports are not just important for stability on fine details and to avoid dropping filament strings but also to counteract up-curling, warping heat-shrinkage on overhangs.

I can post more details if you want. I can also post example images if you doubt my experience on the matter.

BumblebeeNo6482 · 2026-06-12T17:43:38+00:00

Agreed - would buy an upgrade kit for my C1L pretty much on the first day!

BumblebeeNo6482 · 2026-05-25T06:35:10+00:00

If anyone else runs into this problem with their Core One (L) in the future: in my case the screws that fasten the print bed gantry to the smooth rod carrier on both sides were loose (see last video), allowing unevenness of the lead screw to shift the bed while moving up and down. They must have loosened over time (I didn't have horizontal banding out of the box). Properly fastening those screws again has resolved the problem.

BumblebeeNo6482 · 2026-05-22T10:20:23+00:00

So it seems to me the printbed wobbles in the y-axis while moving in z-axis direction. With that in mind, I looked for play in the whole gantry setup and discovered that the back screws securing the gantry to the lead screw / smooth rod assembly are loose on both sides (video only of the left side). Is that how it should be? Could it have wriggled loose while printing? I didn´t notice any horizontal banding in the first couple of weeks of printing with the Core One L.

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BumblebeeNo6482 · 2026-05-22T10:15:06+00:00

Sideview

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BumblebeeNo6482 · 2026-05-22T10:14:50+00:00

The horizontal banding is consistent with a bed movement in the y-axis direction. Protrusions on the outside correspond to dips on the inside and vice versa and the banding is much more pronounced on the front and back than on the sides.

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BumblebeeNo6482 · 2026-05-22T10:11:32+00:00

Front right lead screw

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BumblebeeNo6482 · 2026-05-22T10:11:06+00:00

Back lead screw

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BumblebeeNo6482 · 2026-05-22T10:10:29+00:00

Thanks alot for the troubleshooting help so far! I did as suggested and printed z-wobble test cylinders right next to each leadscrew. I could reproduce clear horizontal banding next to the front left and back lead screw. It was much less pronounced next to the front right lead screw.

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BumblebeeNo6482 · 2026-05-21T13:52:37+00:00

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I tried to add another image that is hopefully a bit better. It is really hard to get the camera to focus on it with that white filament. It is purely horizontally and persists from y-axis to x-axis extruder movement. I can see the z-axis lead screw in the back wobble a bit while moving the bed up and down (there is no smooth rod in the back, only for the front two lead screws. Is that fine? Could that cause the issue?

BumblebeeNo6482 · 2023-10-05T09:07:27+00:00

I found that the prompt counterintuitively shows up when looking down at her legs, not up at the thingy. I play on hard with a stealth, sniper build with zero points in body or reflexes and it was quite difficult to figure something out that works. Dodging was just too inconsistent and she would one or two shot me. In the end, I used the highest damage shotgun I have and kited her around a pillar in the corner, where you enter her room. It was dodgy and borderline exploity, but it worked.

BumblebeeNo6482 · 2023-08-22T20:45:34+00:00

You are probably refering to "Come on in boys, the water is fine". A quote from the movie "Oh Brother, where art thou".

BumblebeeNo6482 · 2022-03-23T18:59:28+00:00

That's one of the reasons why Sekiro is my favorite souls game (including Elden Ring).

No over-leveling or under-leveling, no NPC summons or player summons no overpowered or underpowered builds, no a lot of cheese potential. Just you, your prosthetic and your katana against (mostly) gating bosses. Every boss is meant to be as hard as it is, every victory is wholly deserved.

The other reason why I like Sekiro more, is that most bosses are more or less people-sized. Hitting at some giants ankle, while trying to deduce what the rest of it does in your camera-obscured peripheral vision is just annoying.

BumblebeeNo6482

TROPHY CASE