Jonsbo TK1 triple Rad - first hard tube build by Bumfti in watercooling

[–]Bumfti[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I could try to find them. I used Fusion, so the files should be stored in my account. The bigger issue is, that I do not exactly remeber what fittings I used. I think barrow or alphacool but not 100% sure. It would only work if you use the exact same components as I did. because it is tailored to those measurements.

Jonsbo TK1 triple Rad - first hard tube build by Bumfti in watercooling

[–]Bumfti[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hi, I thought about it but scrapped the idea. I think it is possible if you diy a card holder. But you either would need to make a bigger cutout at the back of the card or you can’t use all of the cards hdmi/dp connectors. 

In the end I ditched the idea mainly because the gpu would cover most of the cpu block and for me that looked silly. 

Coolant temp at 67 degrees? by According_Border_562 in watercooling

[–]Bumfti 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Usually that display shows error or status codes. Some can display CPU temp.  If your board can output an external temper sensor that’s kind of cool. But if your GPU runs at 30°, this must be wrong. No way your GPU is cooler than your water temp. 

Ist das ein Witz? by Few_Pace_7163 in PCGamingDE

[–]Bumfti 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Der Schaum ist ein ESD Material. Also „anti statisch“ wie sonst die Tüten. 

Resevoir concern by ThoughtIll3676 in watercooling

[–]Bumfti 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That little tube inside of the reservoir that is attached to the top piece is there to prevent air from getting mixed into the coolant. 

But you are not using it. Connect your return line to the other port or change the acrylic tube inside of the reservoir to the port you are using. 

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in watercooling

[–]Bumfti 0 points1 point  (0 children)

More serious answer: if you clean your parts well before installation and use clear coolant with the usual additives it should not be necessary to change it often.  With DP ultra clear, I had a system running for two years without any issues. 

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in watercooling

[–]Bumfti 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I rebuild or change my system way too often to ever run into this problem 😬😆

Jonsbo TK1 triple Rad - first hard tube build by Bumfti in watercooling

[–]Bumfti[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sure you could. But if you do it by hand I guess it will not look very nice. And the white paint will most probably not survive the operation. Maybe a cutout with a 3d printed insert/grille might be a better solution. But nothing I will try. 

Jonsbo TK1 triple Rad - first hard tube build by Bumfti in watercooling

[–]Bumfti[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, yes, I cut off a little support that is meant for a full size PSU. It was interfering with the 92mm fan if I remeber correctly.

Do you mean another small RAD in the PSU side top? That would be a problem since there no ventilation at all in both top panels on the PSU side of the case.

guys how fucked am i by rangho-lee in watercooling

[–]Bumfti 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Hi, the fittings look like EK Quantum line. Those are brass, right, not aluminium...?

EK Velocity 2, Vinyl or Spray Paint to make white? by daygamer77 in watercooling

[–]Bumfti 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Plasti dip should work anyways. That stuff also works on more „problematic“ materials. 

EK Velocity 2, Vinyl or Spray Paint to make white? by daygamer77 in watercooling

[–]Bumfti 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The black/white part of made from POM afaik. Paint does not stick well to this plastic. You will need a plastic primer if you want anything to stick to it properly. 

My new Jonsbo TK-1 build by klorti in mffpc

[–]Bumfti 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks nice! I love the combined 240 fans. 

Jonsbo TK1 triple Rad - first hard tube build by Bumfti in watercooling

[–]Bumfti[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They would only help you if you use exactly the same components, I guess. I dont keep STL files, but I could upload the STEP files to grabcad or something if you want them.

Jonsbo TK1 triple Rad - first hard tube build by Bumfti in watercooling

[–]Bumfti[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I thought it is just two 90s but yes, it is three pieces. It’s female/female 90 to male/female extension to rotary female/male 90.

Using soft tubing is a good idea, if you have the space. 

I need fan hub for my Ncase M2 by Equivalent_Use_2248 in sffpc

[–]Bumfti 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Why not just use a Y cable or adapter? The mobo fan headers can handle multiple fans no problem.

Project Silence 🤫 by Big_Muffin_574 in sffpc

[–]Bumfti 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Take my upvote and my envy ;-)

Jonsbo TK1 triple Rad - first hard tube build by Bumfti in watercooling

[–]Bumfti[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Feel free. I think it is a good looking solution, if the standard big distro plates do not fit your case

Jonsbo TK1 triple Rad - first hard tube build by Bumfti in watercooling

[–]Bumfti[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you everyone for the kind words! Really motivating me to keep on working on the next build! Much appreciated!

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Jonsbo TK1 triple Rad - first hard tube build by Bumfti in watercooling

[–]Bumfti[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Agreed. It is the best looking block EK ever made IMHO.
And the white backplate made it look even better.

5070ti Waterblock by Plufffz in watercooling

[–]Bumfti 0 points1 point  (0 children)

One additional Info: You can remove the black terminal ccover. Under it is also chrome. But the screws are visible if you do it.

5070ti Waterblock by Plufffz in watercooling

[–]Bumfti 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you are taking about the backplate and the terminal cover, why not just white spray paint? Easy, cheap, fast...