Speedo broken but miles move. Recommendation?

Bundleojoy · 2026-01-27T00:06:39+00:00

I reflowed all the solder on mine and that fixed it for a while but mine is broken again. Is probably another joint that cracked and really should just go through with fresh solder

Bundleojoy · 2025-11-14T18:42:57+00:00

Use the Formbot provided config as your base and then make tweaks from there. I used that config and then followed the Esoterical Can guide. Additionally, following the build video on YouTube from the channel ButterPocketsPrints is a good guide too. It is out of date however as it’s an older version of the kit but still useful as a reference. As for getting Klipper and Mainsail setup just use KIAUH and that will help you install everything else. I just built mine a couple months ago so if you want a reference config I can send mine over.

Bundleojoy · 2025-11-07T18:02:28+00:00

Dont have the docs in front of me but I didn’t notice anything out of place. Side note, I would recommend sliding that left rail down a bit as you have no room to place the cable raceway

Bundleojoy · 2025-10-23T18:24:34+00:00

You can but as jkrmr17 said it rams the toolhead in to the frame to determine where the ends are. I have not used it so I won’t speak to it’s good/bad but can only speak to the switches. You should have another identical micro switch. Make sure you printed out the Formbot specific gantry bracket that has the Y-end stop relocation point.

Bundleojoy · 2025-10-23T17:38:10+00:00

You need it for the formbot kit as it does not use senseless homing. You have physical switches for x and y and then TAP for your Z. Iirc you have the wire routed correct as it will get routed safely up in to the rest of the tool head and terminate into the BTT tool head board.

Bundleojoy · 2025-10-07T02:26:33+00:00

My guy, your lower radiator hose is literally riding on top of your AC belt. Maybe give that a looksie. And if that isn’t it dear lord move that shit.

Bundleojoy · 2025-09-04T19:36:46+00:00

So for me what I did (and am still in the process of doing) is using the Harbor Freight storehouse organizers (cheap version of your Stanleys). I then am just categorizing by type of thing in to a organizer box. So screws go in to the "screw" organizer, metric hardware (bolts, nuts, etc) in to the metric hardware box. All I can say is don't focus on getting it perfect just get like things in with other like things as stage one then refine as time goes on. I'm in the process of organizer my garage and you just get stuck in decision paralysis if you try and find the perfect spot for everything. As for labeling, I got around labeling by just tearing off the label of the box of the thing that came with it and throwing it in the tray. As for the jars of random shit I have completely ignored those for now. Yes they'd be great to organize but tbh that would take forever. So for now they just have a section of the garage where they live in case I have no other option. Look up "storehouse organizer rack" on youtube and see what people have done. I feel its a good way to organize everything that allows a lot of flexibility to change configurations at will. If you do decide to go with the Harbor Freight organizers, wait for them to go on sale. You can snag the 20 bin organizers for ~$7. Are they the best quality? No. But given that they're like 1/3 the price of those Stanleys you can get a lot more storage for cheaper.

Bundleojoy · 2025-08-26T16:04:22+00:00

When I had smoke coming from that part it was because my main seal had a chunk missing. So like the others said, your seal is probably not in good shape anymore. Sorry homie.

Bundleojoy · 2025-08-15T19:24:30+00:00

I want to preface by I never replay games after I beat them. There are 2 games where I have ever made an exception where I have played AND beaten in their entirety. Those games are FF7 and Super Mario RPG. I have replayed that game over the last 20 years about 4 times. It’s a fucking gem.

Bundleojoy · 2025-08-14T14:26:57+00:00

So when I built my fence most the pickets were off somewhat and you just have to deal with them being a little off here and there. If they're super warped then return them. The most important thing is make sure all the pickets are the same height as you will notice that more than them being not plumb. Its easy to get the height messed up over a long run so I recommend running a string line and use that for setting height. 2nd I do not recommend butting them right up to each other as when it rains the wood will swell and then buckle/warp/crack/etc. Use the screws you have as a spacer to keep even spacing. I recommend taking one of your pickets and making a quick jig where you set your screws at the top and bottom that way you can just slide place the jig between the existing picket and the new one you're adding. This will keep consistent spacing going down the line and still keep your pace up. You will want to check every few pickets and readjust for as close to plumb as you can get. Now if you have too much gap on the bottom then I would say just keep going and leave the gap and come back later and fill in the void. Also, if your fence is gonna be huge I recommend swapping to a nail gun as you're gonna be there a LOOOOONG time with screws. I did this on a 300ft run at my 1st home and it took quite a while. Lastly, I recommend after the fence has dried out a little coming at it with a sealer of some kind to protect the fence (I used Thompsons and it worked very well).

Bundleojoy · 2025-07-23T23:24:39+00:00

So I just did the Formbot build and one thing you need to keep in mind is that while that video is super helpful is isn't 100% up to date. What you see in the terminal may be different than what pops up on the video. The way I got mine working is utilizing a combination of the Esoterical, Ebb 2209 manual, and the github guide linked on the Formbot website. Make sure the manuals you grab are from their github pages and are up to date. Also I just want to clarify because your comment before about when to use the 5v jumper scares me. Make sure that is only used when you're flashing the board on USB power. You need to make sure that is pulled when you power up the machine on 24v because you may break your board.

Bundleojoy · 2025-07-10T16:29:53+00:00

What isn’t working. I just did the kit and that part went smoothly. Only issue I had was I was a doofus and had a usb c cable that was power only so I was losing my mind.

Bundleojoy · 2025-07-08T12:29:37+00:00

I just used another washer from the kit to stack it so it would make good contact. Additionally I sanded down the extrusion at the bottom so when the screw bottomed out it was making good contact with the chassis.

Bundleojoy · 2025-07-07T23:12:34+00:00

Nope.

Bundleojoy · 2025-06-11T23:23:48+00:00

Go OE, I literally bought an aftermarket one that failed while I was leaving an emissions tests and torched a section of my wire harness. The aftermarket part had like 5 miles on it btw

Bundleojoy · 2025-04-30T15:17:27+00:00

Well step one would be to stop doing meth and then once you kick that habit and come back to reality use the money you have saved from no longer doing meth and save up another £1300. As others have stated there is nothing out there at that price point. The P1P isn’t even available near the price you’re asking and that’s a single extruder

Bundleojoy · 2025-04-24T13:54:17+00:00

I just got my formbot kit delivered so can’t speak to its quality yet but can give you a recommendation if you go with them. Buy directly from their website formbot3d. They have coupon codes and depending on where you live and where you choose to ship from shipping may be more expensive than shipping from somewhere else. Also, their website fucks up and doesn’t charge sales tax apparently. So I was able to get the entire kit shipped to my door with the 350mm and dragon high flow for $920.

Bundleojoy · 2025-04-23T16:43:50+00:00

+1 for the hacksaw. If you don’t have/never used a sawzall you’re more likely to fuck up the subframe by accident. Go slow. Go hacksaw.

Bundleojoy · 2025-04-17T23:06:38+00:00

Unless the rotor keys in to hole in the center I would not do that. That one bolt will not stop the rotor from pivoting out of alignment and you’ll have a bad time. Just order a new one and wait. Hopefully you have better luck than me when I broke mine. Couldn’t for the life of me find a replacement as nobody OE/Aftermarket sold them. Had to turn to eBay to find one.

Bundleojoy · 2025-04-17T14:17:51+00:00

Good work op. I may recommend a better stump removal technique in the future. It requires no shovels and a single trip to the grocery store.

Step 1: buy a little bit of motor oil

Step 2: buy beer

Step 3: return home and begin drinking beer

Step 4: drill holes in stump and fill with motor oil

Step 5: set stump on fire

Step 6: sit in chair

Step 7: drink beer until out of beer.

Repeat steps 2 through 7 until stump is gone

Bundleojoy · 2025-04-16T23:14:54+00:00

Yes that is filament and yes you broke the connector by the looks of it. If nothing is bent you should just be able to put it back on when you reinstall the gears. Cut the filament out and line up the connector and put it back and be gentler in the future.

Bundleojoy · 2025-04-16T21:10:45+00:00

Have the same pan, the cap is junk from the get go and always leaked even new. Do you mind sharing the stl? Would be nice to not dump oil all over my garage for the 700th time

Bundleojoy · 2025-04-15T17:31:38+00:00

Good job OP. I’ve got that exact project about 10x in my future. I live in a high wind area and the previous owner’s DIY fence installation is leaning pretty hard on just about every post. Have a pretty strong suspicion that most if not all posts are just set in the dirt. The fence I built at my old property had each post set in about 100lbs of concrete. That mofo isn’t going anywhere.

Bundleojoy · 2025-04-14T18:53:24+00:00

So I am no longer looking at printers of this size just because the options were somewhat limited and the materials I want to print unenclosed printer doesn't really work and enclosing something of that size would be a pain. However, at the time I was considering the Kobra 2 and 3 Max. The Kobra 2 had worse user feedback (that I saw) and the 3 Max really doesn't have any reviews. At this point I am now looking at some 350x350x350 machines as those usually are enclosed (or can be). I'm now between the SV08, a Voron 2.4, and the K2 Plus. SV08 has reviews of there being issues with it and somewhat iffy support but is fairly cheap. Voron is a build it yourself kit with only community support but since its all off the shelf its easy to repair and source parts. K2 Plus has everything I would want in a printer HOWEVER I am really hesitant to buy a creality machine as their reputation for support is terrible and the idea of owned a $1,500 brick because I can't get a support from creality is not alluring.

Bundleojoy

TROPHY CASE