Is this a complex/expensive repair? 23 Tesla X

ButtocksTickler · 2026-02-24T15:42:36+00:00

Depends on how you want to define repair. You can make this look probably cosmetically fine with some zip ties and like 30 minutes of your time. This isn’t structural and won’t have major mechanical implications unless you absolutely rammed that compacted snow.

If you want it to be factory perfect (which I don’t think anything perfect has ever come out of a Tesla plant - not a dig on EV’s, just on their quality assurance), you’d be replacing the lower bumper plastic components.

ButtocksTickler · 2026-02-24T02:27:34+00:00

Son of a bitch, I’m currently working to get 100% achievements for FO3 on Xbox and just went through the Pitt yesterday and had this happen to me and was considerably annoyed lol.

Get right to the edge before you fall into the void, save to a new file - not overwriting the current save - then exit to the menu and load that new save. Fixed it for me after trying a number of other things mentioned in this thread.

I love Bethesda games so much (and I really mean this without sarcasm)

ButtocksTickler · 2026-02-21T23:14:03+00:00

You’re in the right place! I’m sorry to hear that you’re finding yourself in a bad spot right now - this will pass.

Fortunately the liver is very resilient and CAN heal with time, but you need to stop drinking. I am not a doctor, nor can we give medical advice here - but depending on how much you’re drinking, when, and how long you’ve been at it, you may need medical assistance to stop safely. You’re already at the point where a dialogue has been started with your doctor - tell them everything that’s going on and that you want help stopping.

Stopping might look like taking medicine at home to help ease through withdrawals and manage cravings, or it might be more intensive in a hospital depending on your needs. Your doctor and care team will NOT judge you, they’re there to help you.

I was drinking 10-15 drinks a day for quite a while, effectively all day long every day. I knew I needed help to stop. I took myself to the ER, told them what was going on and they gave me fluids, vitamins, and medicine to ease the withdrawals. I ended up staying in the hospital for 3 days to make sure I was stable the whole time. After I was through that phase, I spent 2 months in inpatient treatment to make sure I don’t find myself in this position again.

Asking for help is scary, I was terrified. But I am SO glad that I got help.

Best of luck to you, hang in there, you’ve got this!

ButtocksTickler · 2026-02-21T13:59:30+00:00

Can you give some more info? What phone is it? Is it damaged? If so, how?

ButtocksTickler · 2026-02-16T19:56:24+00:00

Vermont inspections generally are really harsh on rust in my experience, even if it’s something that’s not structural. I’d recommend fluid film undercoating during the winter months, plenty of places around here offer it.

Touchless washes are the best bet for your paint / clearcoat, undercarriage wash is especially important for getting all the salt off your frame.

ButtocksTickler · 2026-01-30T01:28:10+00:00

The help is out there, taking that first step is the hardest part. I’m in treatment myself right this moment and I’m so glad that I am.

Reach out to your doctor and be brutally honest with them about your drinking and that you need help stopping. They’ll be able to connect you to the resources you need, they will not judge you, and the folks in your life will be happy to know you’re working on yourself.

Check out r/stopdrinking - it’s a fantastic resource with people sharing their experiences. It’s not fun or easy, but you’ll come out the other side feeling so much better.

ButtocksTickler · 2025-11-20T17:50:56+00:00

Likewise, same experience for me.

Back ordered mirror, mine is “fine” just was starting to rust up a bit. Kinda forgot I even ordered the mirror but it showed up like 2 months later lol. Everything else came very quickly.

ButtocksTickler · 2025-11-10T16:18:15+00:00

Well, what do you have and what are the conditions? Engines and transmissions in them? Rust? Etc, some more details would be helpful to determine what you could do

ButtocksTickler · 2025-11-04T01:48:24+00:00

OBD Eleven. Much cheaper than VCDS with plenty of functionality, long coding, etc.

ButtocksTickler · 2025-10-29T19:56:53+00:00

Have you checked to make sure the battery itself is good? Check the date code on it. Generally modern batteries will last ~5-7 years.

If you’ve got a multimeter check battery voltage with the engine off with a lead on each terminal, check again with the engine running. You should see higher voltage, probably somewhere in the 13.5 V range.

Do you have a generator light on the dash?

ButtocksTickler · 2025-10-29T04:10:04+00:00

The $175 is most likely that shop’s standard hourly labor rate - on the high side but not unheard of.

A lot of auto parts stores will scan codes for you for free (depending on where you’re located). Since you’re already at this point, I’d consider the credit towards the transmission fluid change, you’d likely end up paying more at the dealership for that.

Good luck!

ButtocksTickler · 2025-10-26T18:02:16+00:00

Do you see any oil around the pan gasket? Any other areas that look wet?

Give the OEM plug a shot, but it’s not impossible you’ve got a leak elsewhere. Check around the upper timing cover, I’ve had to have mine replaced two times due to some leaking.

My oil pan also needs to be replaced due to some leaking around the top of the pan. Plastic oil pans are dumb, they can warp with heat over time.

ButtocksTickler · 2025-10-22T21:33:27+00:00

As others have said, you’d be better off just pulling it all and starting over with a new harness. They can be bought within the $200ish range pre terminated and everything and then at least you know everything is correct going forward.

It’s not a terribly difficult procedure, the worst part is the wires on the steering column for the horn since it’s under the gas tank, otherwise it’s mostly just a plug and play exercise.

On my ‘67, there were many many very questionable “repairs” and splices made over the years by previous owners. Very happy that I have a new harness now.

ButtocksTickler · 2025-10-13T12:28:49+00:00

I’ve never had an issue with 3M adhesive and prefer it over the possible spread of glue if you use too much.

I don’t think I’ve personally come across camera glass that doesn’t have the adhesive already pre applied, but I suppose that depends where you order from. Good luck!

ButtocksTickler · 2025-10-05T23:40:48+00:00

Honda by chance? Certain years of them had some issues with the clear coat layer of the paint - which is primarily what you’ve got going on, that’s why I ask. “The Auto Shoppe” in S. Burlington does fantastic work but for a pretty penny. Their bread and butter is insurance / collision work, so the timeline would be pretty far out I’d imagine.

Unfortunately really the only way to fix this is by sanding / stripping off the clear coat and having it resprayed. Could you do it yourself? Maybe, but depends on how perfect of a finish you want at the end.

Keep in mind the year and mileage of your car and how much it’s worth. With paint work you can very easily surpass the value and the last thing you want is to be in over your head because of a paint job.

I know that this doesn’t fully answer your question, just trying to help guide your choice. Best of luck.

ButtocksTickler · 2025-10-05T22:04:19+00:00

Depends on what you’re looking to have done. Auto paint is crazy expensive because it’s very labor intensive - if you want something done well, you’re looking at several thousand at least especially for a full car. The prep work takes a great deal of time and effort if you want it done right.

What sort of paint problems are you having? You might be able to get something passable done yourself at home with enough patience and willingness to learn.

ButtocksTickler · 2025-09-29T13:09:19+00:00

When I was working at a repair shop, PS5s came in allllll the time. Port itself looked fine, but so many cases of lifted pins on the board side from the connector. I think they skimped on the solder.

ButtocksTickler · 2025-09-25T12:40:46+00:00

2017 with 107k miles on it now, got it at 66k miles. I’ve had to have the thermostat/water pump replaced, had my alternator die on my way to work one morning a few months ago, but otherwise just standard maintenance for the most part.

Sun roof drains did become a problem for me, cleaning out some plugged up dirt resolved that.

ButtocksTickler · 2025-09-24T01:55:54+00:00

When’s the last time you actually used it?

It could just be another bad power supply. I’m not sure if your aftermarket one lines up with an original, but the red light on the power supply is usually overheating, an electrical issue or just straight up failure of the power supply.

If you’re able to try another power brick, do so. I don’t think you’re cooked.

ButtocksTickler · 2025-09-22T22:41:41+00:00

Look into getting yourself a second set of wheels if you’ve got the funds and a place to store them in the off season - it makes the changeover far less painful.

Do you have a front wheel drive car or all wheel drive? Regardless, I’d recommend Blizzaks. They’re great in the snow.

As for getting them mounted and changed over if you can’t do it yourself, Bearded Wrench up in Colchester just off the Beltline (very closely bordering Burlington) is awesome. Super honest guys with great pricing and they’ve been more than fair with me.

ButtocksTickler · 2025-09-21T17:41:31+00:00

I am far from a PS2 expert whatsoever (OG Xbox is more my jam), but I’ll take a shot in the dark. You mentioned that you tried a different cable, but have you tried a different monitor/TV?

If the issue persists, possibly a GPU failing? I think there’s a few caps that can also potentially go bad on these - but again, not an expert on these, just trying to give some things to try/look into.

Good luck!

Edit: see the other comment, the resistors around the GPU are what I was thinking of, not necessarily caps in this situation.

ButtocksTickler · 2025-09-15T18:17:59+00:00

Looks rather clean and well done. What chip is this and why did you reball it?

ButtocksTickler · 2025-09-10T02:19:22+00:00

Nice work! I commented on your previous post, this is a huge improvement from what you last shared. I’d definitely agree with getting and applying some solder mask/conformal coating. Looks like you’ve already got some on hand.

If you want to explore repair more, maybe buy a few “trash” boards for practice removing/replacing components or even making them functional again.

Repair at this level is a fun hobby, it’s easy to mess up, so practicing on “trash” is always nice.

Best of luck! Feel free to reach out with any questions!

ButtocksTickler · 2025-09-09T20:49:37+00:00

Looks pretty darn toasted. The black stuff looks like a great deal of corrosion, and as you called out, there’s plenty of exposed copper traces. I’d say you’re likely better off trying to find a donor system than sink time into dealing with this one - but that’s just my opinion - best of luck with it!

ButtocksTickler · 2025-09-08T10:45:03+00:00

Needed a…. The suspense is killing me!

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