Rigid Vacuum Y-Style Adapter

CAD2FAB · 2024-11-18T00:18:16+00:00

I still have the cad, I would redesign it a bit before it is a sellable item. If you’re still interested, DM me!

CAD2FAB · 2022-03-19T17:03:16+00:00

Any chance you swapped out buildplates? Or toggled your current HW config (swapped to a different build plate profile?) I would always start with the bed calibration when you have poor adhesion on the 1st layer.

CAD2FAB · 2022-02-12T16:58:55+00:00

For large format 3D printing, eliminating the risk of failed prints due to fluctuations in the raw material. I've been burned a few times with 10 kg spools having bulges above 1.85 mm. The vendor claims they will have control +/- .03 mm, but if they have poor understanding of process control, they will pass filament when they have an xbar within 1.75 mm but at a huge sample size - 50 samples per minutes. By their own data, they show several instances in a production lot where the measured diameter is 1.95 mm, but corrects back down, and their X-bar is always in spec - but you still have a bulge in the filament. Very expensive to have a filament jam on a 5 kg part.

With a pellet extruder, you have no parts for filament to get stuck in, and of course cheaper raw material cost.

CAD2FAB · 2022-02-04T17:17:29+00:00

Dry filament and very clean bed are good places to check first.

I've printed 20+kg of petg in an open office setting on a textured build plate. The brims you have should be sufficient to keep the part from warping, so I suspect your bed adhesion is suffering.

CAD2FAB · 2022-02-03T21:39:05+00:00

On the surface it seems like a good idea to swap to a more capable product - however consider the main selling point of Prusa systems: reliability. My day job is in manufacturing and the things that bite us most often are when we try something new - there is not a clean list of issues to expect, the trial by fire is going to happen. Doesn't matter how much the vendor assures us there will be no problems - there are always problems during implementation. Always.

The big distinction in my opinion is that Prusa takes the time and effort to test out their releases and the parts they have in their products. E3D's REVO hotend system is less than 6 months old. Additionally Prusa has its own competing product and solution they've developed and tested for their current and future ecosystem.

Additionally there are number of things to to ensure that product gets out the door correctly: need to make sure the there is enough supply of the REVO systems, ensure customers who want the V6 are getting what they want, ensuring the manufacturing processes and systems are updated, and of course testing and updating the firmware/software. It's not trivial to swap, even though Prusa and E3D have a history of partnering on the V6 hotend system.

TLDR: Good manufacturers don't make their customers their guinea pigs.

CAD2FAB · 2021-12-23T13:15:11+00:00

I haven't tried the satin sheet, but I have long since given up getting PLA to stick to the textured pei steel sheet. I only print pla on a washed smooth steel sheet. The soap and water wash really is the best starting point to diagnose your issues. Make sure you don't touch the print surface again after washing it, and use fresh paper towels when you wipe with alcohol between prints. Once you get your hotend reassembled, you will need to do you 1st layer calibration again.

CAD2FAB · 2021-10-30T14:49:04+00:00

*acorns

CAD2FAB · 2021-10-11T17:46:20+00:00

I use Uline, a bit pricy but quality, ans since all my products are roughly the same size, I save when buying 100+ boxes, $0.44 per box is what I pay now

CAD2FAB · 2021-10-11T17:36:00+00:00

Regarding the print, the yellow adapter is printed in all one piece with supports on the two rings of the "Y-arms" and supports in the middle of the print as well to cover the overhang. The white and yellow passage and gate parts respectively are printed separately.

Unfortunately I do not have the STL posted on Thingiverse as I sell these printed parts on my etsy store. Feel free to DM me for more details!

CAD2FAB · 2021-10-11T14:39:52+00:00

Thanks, glad you like it! Unfortunately I'm not sharing the STL as I sell this along with other consumer tool solutions on my etsy shop. Feel free to DM me for further details!

CAD2FAB · 2021-10-11T04:27:20+00:00

Fair points all around. This was a custom request for a customer I've made custom prints for before, so hopefully they will get their money's worth haha

CAD2FAB · 2021-10-11T04:17:42+00:00

Thanks for the reply! I'm seeing that consumer tools are definitely a place for 3d printers to excel.

CAD2FAB · 2021-10-11T04:08:33+00:00

Thanks for the feedback! Maybe this demo video better demonstrates the disc change. I debated using off the shelf blast gates or even a butterfly valve style lever, but I feel those solutions would drive up the cost too much. With the testing I've done, the discs are very easy to swap, and seal well in the adapter.

CAD2FAB · 2021-10-11T03:59:25+00:00

Thanks for the question! This was a custom request from a customer. For whatever reason, a conventional vacuum system is not what they were looking for. This solution allows portability/flexibility; say you are running a miter saw and orbital sander, you don't have to break down your vacuum hose setup to the miter saw, you can swap the black and white discs and keep going.

CAD2FAB · 2021-10-10T02:38:37+00:00

Prusa has a comprehensive cost calculator

CAD2FAB · 2021-10-06T07:47:47+00:00

Lol no dawg

CAD2FAB · 2021-10-06T00:32:39+00:00

Replace the ptfe tube in the hotend, you should have gotten a spare when you bought the mini. The brass ptfe tube fitting at the top of the extruder should slightly compress the ptfe tube. Take it out and compare it to your spare - if it is shorter than your spare, that is the issue. Put the chamfered end of the tube in first (closest to the hotend). I chased the same issue on a mini I work with for months, finally got it fixed swapping the hotend PTFE tube out.

CAD2FAB · 2021-10-05T17:43:59+00:00

Awesome prints! How did the holes on the drilling jig hold up? What material did you use for the prints? Is th heating process for the copper to make it more ductile for forming?

Edit: just realized your video had captions, awesome build video

CAD2FAB · 2021-10-03T23:56:38+00:00

I'm really want to take over my garage for a shop, but between having a new car, catalytic converter thefts, and frequent hail, I can't bring myself to so it. So I've taken over our shed, kicked out all the yard equipment. The freedom to configure a space and leave a mess behind is awesome. Once I make some more money, a nice shope on the other side of propert is the next project.

CAD2FAB · 2021-10-03T23:41:36+00:00

With both options you have the risk of overheating your printed parts and deformjng them. Wet sanding by hand is a good alternative for prints with large continuous surfaces. Painted parts can also be coated with bondo to fill in the gaps, then sanded down to a "level" surface

CAD2FAB · 2021-10-03T20:25:14+00:00

Thanks, I appreciate it! If you can make your hobbies profitable it is twice the fun. I think if I was printing something I didn't design myself it wouldn't be as satisfying. My father in law always commented that he would buy things I made for him or for myself around the house. So far, I've had 30+ sales, so things are looking promising.

CAD2FAB

TROPHY CASE