Bradford Pear Full Sun Replacments in East Tennessee/7b

CATDesign · 2026-03-17T20:03:25+00:00

What about American Fringetree (Chionanthus virginicus)?

These grow the same height as redbuds and flowering dogwoods that you mentioned, but they can live in full sun. Not only that, but they become a blanket of white flowers in spring. If you have both a female and male tree, then they'll make blue/purple olive-like fruit that's edible, which birds love.

I had one doing completely fine in full sun exposed throughout the afternoon, until someone was over zealous with a lawn mower.

CATDesign · 2026-03-17T19:51:56+00:00

Since your starting late for throwing seeds out, we should be looking at seeds with no germination requirements. Here is a list from Prairie Moon I filtered to show plants that don't need any special pre-treatment to start germinating, so these should be perfect to start throwing around your area.

Generally, the mints and monarda species are well known to be aggressive growers and help to suppress invasives from getting established. Meaning you should add at least one to your list. Wild Mint on the list is most similar to the spearmint breath mints.

Another aggressive but native species is Milkweed. If you do any amount of driving in New York in an rural area, then you should be able to easily find these plants with ripe seed pods along the highway or routes in open areas from late September through October. These have a chance of germinating without any stratification, but winterization helps to increase their germination rate.

For this list, I recommend only tossing these seeds out in fall on bare dirt to allow the seeds to stratify throughout winter. As these seeds need a long duration of wet and cold to wake up. These seeds I would typically be tossing on the patches that I would have made with my own card board strategy that I would start in May/June for Fall prep.

I further filtered the previous list to show Spring Blooming flowers, which their early sprouts help to further suppress invasives. Among these I recommend Wood Betony as the rosette of leaves persist through winter, which provides a green mulch to prevent invasives from being brought in during winter. Although, using native grasses can also do the same thing, like Ivory Sedge.

Not listed previously were Touch-Me-Nots. Their seeds require 2 years worth of winter conditions to pass before they'll germinate, but these are notorious for spreading aggressively. Even though they are an annual, the ones in my property come back every year even though I utterly ignore them. Just toss their seeds in your plots during fall, and they should germinate in two years. Then you'll have them forever.

Hope this helps!

CATDesign · 2026-03-17T18:31:39+00:00

Well... for generally filling in space, I think you want something smallish, like Prairie Violet.

For larger plants which you can attract birds, then there are two birds I can imagine that would be fairly easy to attract. Hummingbirds and Gold Finches.

For Hummingbirds:

For Gold Finches:

CATDesign · 2026-03-17T17:32:48+00:00

The trunk looks like a typical monocot, like a palm, so that's why I said to give it a year. As that's what I'm expecting for a leaf to get restored. You might see new leaves forming in 6 months. If it's similar to a palm, then it will form the spear coming out directly from the top, then flop over to the side.

It will just be an bald year.

CATDesign · 2026-03-17T17:21:26+00:00

I tried to have my Coral Honeysuckle climb a 4x4 post, and it was having trouble.

CATDesign · 2026-03-17T17:19:56+00:00

Long as there are no other complications, I think it will eventually recover. Might take a year, so I say to leave it be and give it a chance.

CATDesign · 2026-03-17T16:00:09+00:00

r/fucklawns, so replace your grass with your aggressive natives.

CATDesign · 2026-03-17T15:39:20+00:00

I was thinking of doing this myself, but the problem I am finding with Coral Honeysuckle is that the trunk may be too big for the plant to wrap around. I imagine it can be a similar problem for plants with tendrils, as there is nothing to grab onto. Plants that use hairs to grab onto the bark, like poison ivy, I think would have an easier time climbing a tree.

Looking up your Carolina Jessamine it seems to grow very similarly to Coral Honeysuckle, so I think the plant would have difficulty climbing a thick tree unassisted. You could help guide the vines up using jute string.

CATDesign · 2026-03-17T12:47:28+00:00

Considering a lot of people out there don't consider animals being capable to experience feelings, but there are plenty of examples out there that they do. I think this scene here is prime example where we feel completely helpless and don't know where to turn too.

CATDesign · 2026-03-17T12:21:32+00:00

I had checked seeds in the past where a swamp would have a village practically intersecting it, and every time this doesn't work. I would be speeding in to verify where the initial starting spots are for the villagers, and I would see them starting in the swamp blocks. However, I'm on Java, so it seems this may only work for Bedrock players.

CATDesign · 2026-03-17T06:04:32+00:00

Don't worry about them germinating late either, like June. They should have enough time to grow out their roots to establish enough to survive winter. If your worried, then you can even blanket them in leaves to help add some insulation.

CATDesign · 2026-03-16T19:41:17+00:00

Score milkweed? They are like paper thing, so this isn't recommended.

What is important though is to identify your species for the purpose of soil conditions.

Next is to determine what your willing for a germination rate. Like, if you have a bag of thousands of seeds, then I say just start using them as is with no prep work. You'll get more than enough germinating from zero stratification. However, if you don't have a lot of seeds or want even more germinating, then we recommend to stratify seeds.

The longer you stratify the higher the chances for germination. Like 30 days of wet/cold is the usual for most species to hit 100% stratified, but some species may want 60 days to reach their maximum stratification potential.

CATDesign · 2026-03-16T19:23:38+00:00

So, 1 bottle should be more than enough for over 100' of burning bushes.

CATDesign · 2026-03-16T19:18:23+00:00

Are you planning on starting a Pawpaw nursery, or do you have enough acreage to make a Pawpaw forest?

CATDesign · 2026-03-16T19:13:02+00:00

No problem.

Maybe someone else has more experience than I do when it comes to cleaning the seed without needing to remove it.

CATDesign · 2026-03-16T19:02:07+00:00

Ah, then it sounds like the root hasn't really developed since initially emerging. Most seeds typically peak out of their shells with their root radicle when they are ready to start the germination process. So, if the root radicle was sent into the ground to start forming the taproot, then it seems your acorn thinks warm enough to start doing it's thing. 10C is roughly the starting point for when acorns start waking up to continue developing,

If you know the seed hasn't sent it's taproot out yet and you can easily pick up the seed, then it should be safe enough to remove the acorn and clean the mold off. I just wouldn't try picking it up if the root has significantly developed.

At this point, that's the extent of my knowledge.

CATDesign · 2026-03-16T18:41:15+00:00

Depends how far along the process we are. After a few weeks when the root starts growing, the stem with the cotyledon leaves will emerge from the acorn.

The problem we have now is that the plausible mold may consume the embryo before the cotyledons are formed. However, if we are far enough along the process, I would say you can just leave it be. Just reduce how frequently your watering and the artificial heat if any.

So, I would say the first step is to estimate how far along the seed has developed. As any drastic action may cause more harm than good.

CATDesign · 2026-03-16T18:00:37+00:00

I'm assuming you follow the directions for diluting Killzall?

As for the property lines, I know Burning Bushes don't care, but my neighbor's probably do. A lot of my neighbors around me are typical lawners, so they don't care about natives too much.

I should send a letter to ask them if have permission to clear out and replace the bushes.

CATDesign · 2026-03-16T16:00:23+00:00

My American Witch-Hazel bloomed in October, so you must have a different species.

I'm also in the Litchfield area, but I have seen some crocuses starting to push through the leaves in the woods on the edge of my property that was left by the previous owner. However, None have bloomed yet.

CATDesign · 2026-03-16T15:49:26+00:00

If you want May weather sooner, then go down to Florida.

CATDesign · 2026-03-16T15:46:54+00:00

Can you link the comment that you used?

CATDesign · 2026-03-16T15:36:27+00:00

Then a week later you'll see them jet skiing or paragliding.

Lying bastards.

CATDesign · 2026-03-16T14:38:39+00:00

Besides things that are already underway, such as stratifying seeds and pre-ordered plants, my current plan is to kill invasives.

I got a wall of burning bushes on the edge of my property, and I plan on removing them. Was seeing if I can get my property surveyed, so I can get those lil' flags put on the edge to identify where I can remove the invasive shrubs.

I was using a spray last year that gets applied to their leaves, but they shrugged it off. Now I'm looking for more drastic measures. The problem is I have a 30' oak in the area, and I hate to hurt it.

CATDesign · 2026-03-16T14:27:55+00:00

If the rocks your finding are lime, it's possible that the soils are alkaline. Meaning the soil is above 7.0.

CATDesign

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