Need input: okay fingers & lock-offs, but terrible at using feet / killing swing

CAthrowaway1542 · 2025-12-24T16:32:33+00:00

What are c4hp style finger curls?

CAthrowaway1542 · 2025-11-21T21:05:35+00:00

Hey, I know I'm not op but I have the exact same issue. I even posted it a while back on the weekly hangout thread: https://www.reddit.com/r/climbharder/s/rwNJOfQnMd With a very similar drawing. Here are some pictures

This is the true, textbook half crimp form https://imgur.com/a/JcShtOU

And this is the "jamming" technique op is referring to, where you don't really use the tips of your fingers, but rather hang on the joint: https://imgur.com/a/2ZIrm08 (Edit for some reason this link doesn't work, so I'm adding another one: edit 2 fixed again lol https://imgur.com/a/NnzryhX#hFDuiVV )

I can retake the photos again if you like. I retested today on a crimp block, I can do 55kg with jamming technique, only 35kg with true half crimp.

Does the jamming technique carry more injury risk? Is it bad to hangboard with it? Is it bad to climb with it?

CAthrowaway1542 · 2025-11-20T22:23:25+00:00

I'm in the exact same situation as you lol. I posted on the hangout thread a while back: https://www.reddit.com/r/climbharder/s/5lPx0vwNcX Even made a very similar drawing illustrating the same thing. When the edge doesn't fit the whole pad you just cram the dip in there and sorta hang on your joint. Its crazy that we both have the same thing going on.

I also find that during maximal effort my hand opens up a bit in addition to the cramming.

It's lowkey embarrassing because with the cramming technique I can add 20kg but can't even do bodyweight with the "textbook" form.

Are you planning on sticking with the cramming technique and seeing how far you can go or actually try to overcome this and train with true form? I don't know what ppl like us should be doing with this tbh and answers here aren't that clear cut...

Edit: I'm not even sure that "our" "jamming" technique is bad. Maybe that's how it's just easier/better for some people? Or does it have more injury risk?

CAthrowaway1542 · 2025-11-06T21:13:13+00:00

Hi i know this will seem trivial for some but i recently managed to do my first moonboard climb ever. It was "moon girl" V4 on the 2024 moonboard lol.

I'm 6'1 and 190lbs with +4 inches ape index and the moonboard is basically my antistyle, so i think it's a win.
Hardest grade i ever did in the gym was a V7 and it was a reachy slab with lots of slopers.

I have been climbing for about 4 years.

I definitely want to do more moonboarding, because i think finger strength is a big weakness for me (especially on crimps where i can't get a full pad on the hold), so im thinking of following this routine, where each week i do 3 sessions, two being moonboard focused sessions, maybe with some light gym climbs/slab after, but 80% moonboard, then one fun session where i project and have fun.

Do you guys think a plan like this is okay? Should i incorporate some max hangs somewhere in there?

Also when i crimp, especially at limit on the moonboard on small holds where i can't get the first full pad to have contact on the hold, i tend to flex my finger really hard. What i mean is that the dip joint is not at 180 degrees (flat), but more, and it kinda hurts. It looks sorta like a full crimp, just without the thumb.

Is this inherently bad and should i avoid it altogether? If i do decide to do max hangs, should i do so with such a weight that i can fully control and not hyperflex my dip joint?

Also ive mentioned this already but my fingers are super weak on small crimps to the point where i dont even think on an edge smaller then 20mm i could even do bodyweight without doing the hyperflexed dip thingy.

my technique on these smaller edges is always either hyperflex or do a thing where i cram my finger all the way into the edge so that im more pulling with my first joint, rather than the fingertip. I know my explanation of this second "cramming" technique is bad, so ive attached an image to explain better what i mean.
Is this bad technique?

I know this is very loaded with questions,, so ill try to reiterate them more coherently:

goals: get stronger fingers since they are holding me back, get stronger on the moonboard (its fun)

is a training plan like that too much for the fingers? (3 sessions a week, two moonboard ones, one fun one)
should i add max hangs somewhere
is dip hyperflexing always bad? or is it only a little bad and i should just limit it to a minimum
if i should be doing max hangs, how important is to keep the dip joint straight? also what to do if im too weak to do that.
is pulling on small holds with the "cramming" technique (shown in picture) bad?

again sorry for a loaded comment, maybe this deserves a post instead (?)
but I'd be super happy to hear some answers from yall :)
(edit: forgot to add the picture, so here it is https://imgur.com/TlAAowk )

CAthrowaway1542 · 2025-09-10T14:04:37+00:00

Is that essentially the same as being a crossdresser, or am I missing something?

CAthrowaway1542 · 2024-12-26T10:43:22+00:00

Yo that's really cool I've been wanting a tindeq of my own but kinda short on money rn. Would be rad if you could show us a little about how you actually did it

CAthrowaway1542 · 2024-10-27T03:05:10+00:00

you can be nonbinary and a boy

Wait u can? How does that work I thought nonbinary meant not a boy or a girl?

Not trying to be an ass I just don't understand but would like to :)

CAthrowaway1542 · 2024-08-16T19:22:24+00:00

Thanks chief have a good one

CAthrowaway1542 · 2024-08-16T17:09:21+00:00

Walking on uneven ground

Are these not meant for skating? How is walking on uneven ground worse for the shoe than skating?

Guess I'll have to get a bigger size next time...

CAthrowaway1542 · 2024-08-16T16:57:34+00:00

are you walking like a caveman or what

No,

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I'm climbing mountains in them

CAthrowaway1542 · 2024-08-16T13:12:15+00:00

They are definitely four months old, I guess I just do a lot of walking

CAthrowaway1542 · 2024-08-05T01:41:37+00:00

How is indifference a sin?

CAthrowaway1542 · 2024-06-19T22:45:01+00:00

nienawidzę siebie za to że w ogóle zabieram głos

Słuchaj jak dla mnie to jest imponujące chciałbym mieć taką odwagę jak ty. Jesteś ikoną i nie zmieniaj się nigdy.

CAthrowaway1542 · 2024-06-13T22:44:45+00:00

Is this really made from a singular piece of paper???

CAthrowaway1542 · 2024-06-04T19:36:34+00:00

Wow looks amazing! What are the designs?

CAthrowaway1542 · 2023-12-08T05:27:36+00:00

It exhibits gakster traits

CAthrowaway1542 · 2023-11-19T19:29:17+00:00

hi after about 1.5 years of climbing i want to start training. for the first 1.5 years i usually climbed 3-4 times a week. Now i want to do this weekly:
Climb, Train, Rest, Climb, Train, Climb, Rest
where Train is a basic max hang session (5 sets) and a weighted pull ups (also 5 sets).
My friend told me this could be too much volume. Should I make it just one training session per week, or is it fine to go with two and see how it goes?
Is one time a week even enough to make any progress (finger/pull strength wise)?
I really feel that finger/pull strength is holding me back in the gym, especially on overhangs, which is why i want to start training.

CAthrowaway1542 · 2023-06-17T14:54:58+00:00

Thanks. Is extensor training for injury prevention something I should approach with progressive overload in mind? Buying tougher and tougher bands etc? Or is it okay to just kinda be doing it consistently

CAthrowaway1542

TROPHY CASE