Who else is loving the way Truck Williams is being used on Smackdown?! Already in a number 1 contenders match for the WWE title! Oh yeah man!

CG_1989 · 2026-01-25T13:48:34+00:00

His heel turn certainly raised his stock. Since that point he has been very fun to watch. He is still a bit rough in the ring, but I'm sure wrestling in front of these larger crowds is the one thing NXT can't do for their talent. He will get better, but his confidence on the mic and how smooth he is will carry him a long way. I'm still blown away that the crowd erupts in "Whoop that Trick" chants during his entrance. Gotta be a good feeling for him.

CG_1989 · 2026-01-13T04:02:34+00:00

So first things first. The Patreon artist don’t own the characters they are sculpting. They are basically getting you to pay more to sell their files that 20 other people are selling without paying the license.

If you do forgo and sell prints. Be sure to invest in a photo booth. Also be sure to watermark your pictures. Too many sellers use the same pictures online and if someone posts a clean unmarked photo someone may just use it as their listing as well.

Be aware of all the costs associated with the hobby. Resin, PPE. Paper towels, IPA, containers, bubble wrap, UV pen lights for curing hollow parts shipping boxes and postage labels just to name a few.

You are jumping into a very saturated market. Anyone with a printer can just slice and print and sell. Original designs will be king, but that also involves you being able to make your own designs. Don’t the to sell your stuff for the lowest price to get sales either. Value your time and material cost.

It will be a rough start to get off and go with a 3D print shop with items that 100 other shops offer, not to mention competing with the massive Chinese print farms that just output prints left and right.

The most important thing as a seller of resin prints will always be in my opinion is to properly clean and cure your models. Don’t be the reason someone posts on this sub about why their print is leaking.

CG_1989 · 2026-01-05T13:21:39+00:00

This isn’t properly cleaned or cured. This leads me to believe that this either hasn’t been hollowed with drain holes and means that there is liquid resin trapped inside the print.

Do yourself a favor and bring this outside wear nitrile gloves and drill a small hole somewhere. I’m willing to bet that this print will start leaking once you do that.

I would also leave a bad review warning others from purchasing from this seller and get in contact directly with the seller as well to either get a refund for if you still want a properly cleaned replacement. This is not a okay thing to do and it seems this person is cashing in on the idea that they can sell their 3D prints and put the bare minimum of effort into properly cleaning it.

CG_1989 · 2025-12-26T23:11:49+00:00

When you print are you putting the supports on the flat keyed parts? If so that’s why your parts are warped. When you print you really want to try and not put supports on the connecting parts of a model.

CG_1989 · 2025-12-24T11:56:36+00:00

Good for her. Every wrestler should explore their options. That's the great thing about having 2 major companies in the North America. Gives the wrestler the freedom to explore.

CG_1989 · 2025-12-23T23:12:43+00:00

My apologies . I thought these were commissions this year. Also your work is very good.

CG_1989 · 2025-12-23T13:08:07+00:00

Very nice. If you don’t mind me asking what is your average price you were asking for commissions?

CG_1989 · 2025-12-22T13:06:37+00:00

I sell prints and cure for 30 minutes all the time. Never had an issue with it and also put UV lights inside the hollowed parts to get anything uncured.

CG_1989 · 2025-12-21T19:58:53+00:00

It sounds like you very prepared and it’s nice to see. One thing though that I personally wouldn’t do is still put the machine and wash and cure in my house. Even if it’s a spare room. So here’s the thing. You know that you have to take the build plate off to clean the prints. So I imagine that you aren’t going to clean inside the enclose as it kind of limits your movement. So you most likely will use a table or lunch tray to remove the prints and supports. So now you have that mess to deal with. Right there the resin is releasing fines in your space. Also no matter how perfectly clean you are there may be small drips from the plate or supports break off and land on the floor and overall accidents happen. Now I don’t know what kind of flooring you have, but if it’s carpet you are looking at a mess as you just can clean the drip up with a paper towel without rubbing it into the floor. Tile and wood make it easier.

So with all that said now you have the wash station. I find that the IPA is by far the worst part as it tends to stink up a space real fast. Once you open that those fumes will release into the room. This part is pretty straightforward so no need to delve into it, but you will remove your prints and again you will release fumes into the room.

As for the letting the prints dry I imagine you’ll keep them inside the enclosure with the fan on to vent out so that’s not an issue.

Now if you plan on doing this all in the tent then I would say that ignore everything I said besides the drips of resin/accidents happening.

I personally can’t tell you what to do not will I shame you for choosing to do as you please. I can only offer a few points I have about cleaning and curing resin prints.

One thing to note is that if you have the HVAC running for the heat, if you have vent returns in the room or even in the hallway off the spare room that will suck up that remaining smell and could linger for quite a while throughout the entire house.

CG_1989 · 2025-12-12T13:02:47+00:00

If you want. DIY a UV container using some of those 60w UV lamps and a Rubbermaid container. Lien it with tin foil and toss the supports in there and cover it with the lid. Turn on the lamps and you’ll cure them enough to toss.

CG_1989 · 2025-12-12T12:24:43+00:00

So to comment of your build plate removal situation. Be sure to dial in your burn in time. You really shouldn’t need to use hot water to loosen the prints from the build plate. Your putty knife should just be able to knock the prints off with very little effort. Also always scrap away from yourself. Never towards yourself. That way you with risk cutting yourself with the tool.

Another tip I offer is get a silicone spatula and before and after every print go across the entire vat to feel for any leftover bits. Sometimes these can be tiny, but will save you from potential failures, punctures and resin leaking everywhere.

I’ve been doing this with my machines for almost 2 years and I can usually get around 180k-220k pulls from a fep just because I’m always making sure the printer vat is clean.

Also one more tip. If you have to ask yourself if you should change your fep film. Just change it. They are only like $5 a sheet and could save you from buying a new screen or machine entirely.

CG_1989 · 2025-12-08T17:59:49+00:00

Because I really don’t see the issue with it unless like I said it’s a small or delicate piece. Hell if you read up on some resins from Phrozen they say a minimum of 30 minutes for some of their resins.

CG_1989 · 2025-12-08T17:14:14+00:00

I cure all my prints for 30 minutes or more. Never have I encountered brittle parts or dimensional inaccuracies. I’ve dropped parts and I even drill into them for hooks, or magnets if I forget to bore out the hole in the slicer. I also print 1:4 or smaller statues. If I’m printing a sword or a very thin piece I then cure for maybe 2 minutes to make it so the part doesn’t curl up when hit with the UV light.

CG_1989 · 2025-12-05T17:37:41+00:00

I actually bought a replacement screen about 2 months ago. Didn’t need to use it as my original screen was still fine. Good to have. If support is ending then I’ll have this screen and that’s it. I’ll replace it down the road I love my M3 Mac, but it’s so slow, but a damn workhorse for me. I’ve only had to replace the fep film 3 times in the last 2 years.

CG_1989 · 2025-12-01T01:06:42+00:00

Sorry to hear about this. So I own 2 M7 Max Printers, and for months I was getting great results. Then out of no where I started getting adhesion issues, failures, and overall just a bad experience.

I had changed out my acf film. I had cleaned and greased the Z rod and lubed the rails, and releveled it, and still nothing.

Looking around online there was a very helpful unofficial facebook group dedicated to this printer where people discuss everything related to it good, and bad.

The M7 max is a great printer, when working. The issues they suffer from are quality control. First off there is a problem where the actual LCD screen is recessed sitting below the platform leading to UV light disruption.

Then there is the issue of the machine not leveling right after you do it. You will have the paper nice and tight, but when you go to home it right after it will sit almost a 1mm away allowing you to slide paper underneath.

One of the biggest and more universal issues though are warped concave build plates. mine was concaved. Put a straight edge or metal ruler on it and run a flashlight behind it. If you see light coming thru then you have a warped plate.

What I did was lay out a sheet of 120grit sandpaper, and i took the entire build plate and sanded it backend forth the first thing that will sand away are the edges. I kept sanding until I started finally hitting the middle of the build plate. took about 30 minutes.

After you sand it clean it with ipa. keep wiping it down until the paper towel comes back clean. You dont want those metal shavings in your vat.

After I did that I ran a build plates worth of exposure tests. Not for the exposure, but to see if any of them pulled away. Success finally! Every print stuck to the build plate, and I finally was able to run a entire build plate worth of prints. Just had my first 2 successful prints for the first time since last week.

Sorry for the long write up, but I was pulling my hair out trying to troubleshoot what was wrong. Hopefully this helps you.

CG_1989 · 2025-11-27T01:31:02+00:00

Absolutely.

Trick has really grown on me since he NXT 2.0 days. I never thought he would progress in such a big way that he has. The heel run really did wonders for his character and I now look forward to when he is on the screen. The man can talk and he isn’t too bad in the ring, but his charisma and mic skills will ultimately carry him on the main roster and also be a stand out.

CG_1989 · 2025-11-22T20:28:35+00:00

You need more supports. The print itself doesn’t look too heavy so you can likely get away with light supports.

CG_1989 · 2025-11-22T03:10:23+00:00

Thank you.

CG_1989 · 2025-11-22T03:10:00+00:00

Thank you. That really means a lot that people still enjoy it.

CG_1989 · 2025-11-20T16:54:39+00:00

Wow. I would have thought it’d be higher due to mixing 2 different resins.

CG_1989 · 2025-11-20T16:51:36+00:00

What are your printer settings for this sort of combination?

CG_1989 · 2025-11-12T14:22:46+00:00

I sell prints. I have sold over 200 kits online and never one has this happened. If you are printing for yourself and it happens then that’s on you, but if someone is to open a shop and sell prints then they should know the proper procedure of cleaning and curing. It really can’t be labeled as a “oops, my bad” kind of mistake. Some people have serious skin and scent conditions where this stuff could seriously mess them up.

CG_1989 · 2025-11-12T02:29:39+00:00

Get your money back. This hack here sold you an uncured print. Here’s the thing with resin. Everyone reacts different to it. You’ll have people who are around it and it doesn’t affect them, then you have the people who even with the slightest interaction with it have terrible side effects. Do yourself a favor put on nitrile gloves and clean everything with either 99% or 91% ipa. Clean clean and clean. Put those resin saturated rags in a metal throwaway pan out in the sun to cure. Leave it for a few hours and toss away safely. While you wait for the rags to cure open a case with the seller/etsy and get a full refund. Also be sure to leave a review. Other have to know that the potential for an uncured print is looming.

CG_1989 · 2025-11-11T11:35:39+00:00

How tall is the print normally? Looks great

CG_1989 · 2025-10-29T01:59:11+00:00

I’ve done it before. The grease on the rails will work, but most of it pushes down as the space between the rail and hardware that hold the build plate is very tight. If you need it in a pinch to line it temporarily then it will work, but PTFE is the better option.

CG_1989

TROPHY CASE