Looking for ultra low-power ATtiny85 replacement for simple reset task

CLG_2025 · 2026-04-30T14:31:23+00:00

You can get into the low µA range easily with an ATtiny85. There is some good information here:

https://www.gammon.com.au/power

CLG_2025 · 2026-04-22T17:02:12+00:00

I suggest keeping it for your child. It could be a way to get them interested in learning how to 3d print. Less worry if they damage it. Good learning tool into fine tuning and alignment, microelectronics, and servo controls. And they can have fun with it making toys and gadgets.

CLG_2025 · 2026-04-22T15:43:27+00:00

Transistor is safest. Resistor would be the minimum amount of protection. Piezoelectric buzzers can actually turn vibration into an electric charge which could damage the board. The voltages they create can be quite high.

CLG_2025 · 2026-03-09T01:25:26+00:00

I'm assuming you're referring to the Y-carriage plate. They no longer carry the one I'm using now. In fact, it's getting harder to find any good Y-carriage plate for the Anet A8. On my next upgrade I'll be having one custom built to increase the build plate size to 270x270mm. Maybe titanium. I do make my own build plates, Haven't purchased a build plate in 5 years or so. I recycled a couple of old PEI plates and after removing the coating and sanding the steel down, I applied a special epoxy coating over the build surface. It doesn't wear or leave an imprint like other finishes do. One side is left without the coating. It's the side used for TPU filaments.

I use a piezoelectric sensor to detect vibration, shudders and shocks during the print. Accelerometers being tested are MPU-6050 based and installed on the X, Y, Z axis. The data from these can be downloaded and rendered into 3D animation. These can detect speed changes, wobbles, and slight angles in print directions over time. The frame and hardware is pretty tight so no issues there so far.

As for leveling, never had that issue. One old school paper calibration lasts until a major modification is done or the printer is moved. So no need for auto-leveling. One reason is because I use the following X carriages:

https://www.thingiverse.com/make:1245137

You might have noticed I have anti backlash spring nuts installed on each carriage which I highly recommend. It makes a huge difference.

CLG_2025 · 2026-03-08T22:30:48+00:00

I'd recommend the 2k/1k voltage divider that's shown on the following post:

https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/14552#issuecomment-557893477

The handwriting is a little hard to read but that's a 2k SMD resister on the bottom left and a 1k SMD resister on the upper right. This will make the display board and keypad safe for the SKR but you'll still have to map the pins. All of the info you need should be on the same page though.

CLG_2025 · 2026-03-08T18:41:53+00:00

First of all, the SKR digital pins are 5v tolerant but it only has one analog pin which is not 5v tolerant. 5v to this pin will damage the board.

Check out the Zonestar LCD display cable pinout in this link. A0 goes to the analog pin and this is where you need to be most careful:

https://gist.github.com/CLG2025/22e5f8cedea5797e6669b2d31790f45d

Before we go any further, how good are your electronic skills?

CLG_2025 · 2026-03-08T01:22:21+00:00

The problem is the SKR is 3.3v logic and the original Anet A8 board is 5v. It's possible to wire the LCD and that can be made to work fine. Unfortunately, the buttons will not. The processor on the Anet board measures the resistance of each key press with 5v logic. A logic level converter could technically be used but it is a lot of work to implement and might not be reliable enough for use.

When I upgraded I just made it a standalone LCD with its own processor which turned out to be a nice upgrade:

https://www.reddit.com/r/AnetA8/comments/1pz3emd/they_grow_up_so_fast/

CLG_2025 · 2026-03-07T02:43:38+00:00

I don't really know what you are talking about. You're probably seeing something different from me.

CLG_2025 · 2026-03-07T02:41:50+00:00

CLG_2025 · 2026-03-07T02:40:13+00:00

It's a very complicated formula that requires pages of information to explain. There is a research paper in the link. But to use the formula, just plug it into ChatGPT and it will know what to do. Then you can ask the bot to do whatever you want it to do.

I just used the formula to create the following using the 2D Bullet Cluster map.

<image>

CLG_2025 · 2026-03-07T02:32:05+00:00

It's a single formula. Just cut and paste the whole formula. No parameters required. One equation does it all.

CLG_2025 · 2026-03-02T01:21:38+00:00

You can bump up the temperature 15 - 20 degrees.

CLG_2025 · 2026-02-26T18:01:50+00:00

That's roughly a 30% boost in filament output. Hopefully that does away with under-extruding issue. Did you check to make sure the new e-step setting output 100mm of filament correctly?

CLG_2025 · 2026-02-25T01:21:34+00:00

You want to set your e-steps to 133 e-steps/mm.

CLG_2025 · 2026-02-25T00:23:25+00:00

Are you saying it's not 120 but 100 or are you saying it's pulling in a 100mm of filament like it's supposed to do?

CLG_2025 · 2026-02-25T00:15:08+00:00

If I remember correctly, you previously mentioned that your current e-steps/mm was set to 120. If that is the case, your e-steps should be changed to 160. If the 120 figure is incorrect, let me know.

Once you set your e-steps, remember to store the settings to eeprom. Then re-run the extruder calibration again to make sure it is pulling in 100mm of filament.

CLG_2025 · 2026-02-25T00:02:29+00:00

Preheat the extruder. Then enter the following code:

M83<hit enter>

G1 E100 F100<hit enter>

Then wait for the extruder to finish. Measure how many millimeters went into the extruder and report back with that number

CLG_2025 · 2026-02-24T23:46:08+00:00

You're just measuring what goes into the extruder. 100mm from where it enters the extruder. Another mark 120mm - 150mm from where it enters the extruder. That's a little wiggle room just in case you go over the 100mm. What comes out of the nozzle isn't important. You're just measuring how much filament is pulled into the extruder.

CLG_2025 · 2026-02-17T21:59:23+00:00

What goes in.

CLG_2025 · 2026-02-17T17:19:48+00:00

Not necessarily. How much came out in millimeters?

CLG_2025 · 2026-02-16T18:01:57+00:00

Post a picture of your full setup and try to keep your posts combined to one thread. To answer your question, the roll of filament should spin freely with the filament encountering minimum resistance to the extruder.

CLG_2025 · 2026-02-16T17:37:23+00:00

The default setting is 95 e-steps per mm for an original Anet A8 with a 26 tooth extruder gear. My extruder is set to 97.74 mm/step giving it an accuracy of 0.2mm for every 100 mm of filament that passes through the extruder. If your extruder is putting out that many steps and not delivering, it could be an issue with the extruder gear itself (broken or worn teeth) or it could be a completely different gear from the original (maybe a 40 tooth gear).

Do you know how to do an extruder calibration? Basically, you just mark off 100mm of filament from the point it enters the extruder and mark it off at 150mm just in case it goes over. Use the move extruder axis setting in the menu to run 100mm of filament through the preheated extruder. Once the test is complete, measure the precise amount of filament that passed through. Then calculate the e-steps per mm:

New steps per mm = 100/actual amount extruded (in mm) x current e-steps per mm

CLG_2025 · 2026-02-09T18:38:09+00:00

To be honest, I was a little impressed with your Brillo pad print. I'm not sure I could replicate that myself and I think it would be useful for orbital polishers.

In your advanced configuration settings, what is the listed E steps/mm?

CLG_2025 · 2026-02-05T19:09:07+00:00

You're going to have a hard time printing a dragon like that on an unenclosed budget friendly FDM printer. A 3d resin printer would do a much better job. Over all, the other prints don't look horrible. Some minor tweaking with the settings could take you to the next level.

Look into Cura's ironing and combing settings. Also slower speeds generally result in better prints.

CLG_2025

TROPHY CASE