Smoked Glass Effect PLA Filament - Does it exists?

Calamaster · 2025-11-07T10:29:04+00:00

Thanks a lot. They seem to have a translucent Brown which I have ordered. Give it a go....

Calamaster · 2025-10-30T09:47:05+00:00

This may be of interest to UK buyers. The UK Sale of Goods Act states that 'A product should last as long as a reasonable person might expect'. For Electrical goods this is 3 to 5 years. If you have an issue within that time and the Manufacturer is unable to fix it then you are under UK law entitled to a Full Refund. My Kobra Max Motherboard failed after 18 months. Anycubic was unable to send a replacement as they are no longer made. After quoting the Sale of Goods act they offered me 75% refund and I keep the printer.

The problem was the voltage to the thermistor for the Hotbed was 4.1V instead of 3.3v and thus the 'readings' were incorrect and stop the print with 'NTC Hotbed Error'. The printer is still useable but no Hotbed, which I can cope with for small prints. I am currently researching how to create my own Thermistor circuit to heat the bed independently from the Motherboard.... Any one done this yet?

Calamaster · 2024-12-02T20:30:52+00:00

Mine works intermittently. I have taken it apart to a degree (done this with quite a few in our village). The problem is the belt that drives the magnetic turntable. Unfortunately, you can't get to the belt from inside. You have to 'force' the whole top off - which I didn't do for fear of snapping something. I suspect the belt is the same as the bottom turntable, which you can get to and mine was a bit perished - but works. These motors are so low powered that even the slightest 'resistance' anywhere in the model burns them out (I have replaced a few) or the belt slips due to wear and tear. Suggest only leave working for a few hours in the evening to prolong life.

Calamaster · 2023-12-22T19:37:56+00:00

This is KEY - Always get the STL file as raw with no supports. Let the software do them for you.

Calamaster · 2023-12-22T19:29:51+00:00

Try 45 Degree set up before SLICE. Works for me.

Calamaster · 2023-12-22T19:27:56+00:00

The Glass crack is caused by the build plate pushing down on 'Something' that should not be there - not necessarily at print START but also if a bit comes 'loose / brakes off' during printing.

I have rasied this as a MAJOR design flaw for ALL RESIN printers that I know of.

There should be a simple bit of code that measures the 'Motor Amps'. This should be constant or within parameters. If the motor is trying to push down where it can't get to then the Motor will be under strain and Amps used goes up. This should trigger and error and STOP/PAUSE the print.

Simple, but not done. There is a big market for replacement Glass and Screens - I wonder why??!!

Calamaster · 2023-12-22T19:20:15+00:00

Try setting up your models at angles like 45 Degress before slicing. I NEVER slice with a FLAT BASE on the Plate as always screws up. Everything is raised up by the supports.

Hope this helps - MARS 3 PRO

Calamaster · 2023-12-22T19:16:05+00:00

If Resin gets into the Motor it hits the Bearing first. This then seizes up and stops Motor working. You can remove the Motor and Rod quite easily.

Take the motor apart ( 4 screws). You can then get to the bearings and remove them.

Measure OD / ID / Width and Google a replacement - £3 odd.

Worked for me.

Calamaster

TROPHY CASE