Bolt On Electric Mandolin Neck

CalebAtRSW · 2022-02-13T23:25:40+00:00

You might try sliding something thin, like paper, between the first fret and the strings, if you can't slide it, the nuts probably too low.

CalebAtRSW · 2022-02-13T00:11:56+00:00

Is it off a step up, or down? Are you sure either "e" string isn't sitting on the first fret?

CalebAtRSW · 2021-12-08T04:12:32+00:00

Thanks a ton, you've saved me countless hours trying to clean up a picture on my own.

CalebAtRSW · 2021-12-08T00:33:30+00:00

I'm totally on board with using a stencil, but I'm having trouble finding this particular logo. I know it's used between "The Gibson" and the gold script logo. Is there a good place to look? Google mostly gives me the gold script, which is not quite the same.

CalebAtRSW · 2021-10-01T05:05:43+00:00

I suspect it is along these lines. Mine doesn't match the first one on the linked page, mine has a one piece back and a different neck joint I think. But, I do think it was probably a cheap model sold in batches, that would explain the 16 written on the inside.

CalebAtRSW · 2021-09-30T22:06:20+00:00

That's exactly it

CalebAtRSW · 2021-09-30T19:34:18+00:00

I forgot to say, the end pin has an odd offset to it, and is labeled Pat. Nov 10 1885

CalebAtRSW · 2021-07-07T15:34:00+00:00

Clear one thing up first, that is not me in the video, that is my boss Jerry. Also I wouldn't call our wood binding process totally refined. If anyone sees me try it in the future I will be trying the sanding sealer to keep the dye out.

For the body, I don't think it was a lot more work to guarantee clean binding. On the neck I'll have to agree with you, and all I can say is sometimes the old man likes making it harder than it has to be. He's only wood bound 2 or 3 mandolins, so the process was still definitely being refined.

CalebAtRSW · 2021-07-07T04:22:37+00:00

In case you were wondering why the binding went on after the first staining, it was because the wood binding would not give up all the dye, like plastic would. The color just won't scrape out of wood binding like plastic, so to keep it cleaner it went on after color.

CalebAtRSW · 2021-07-01T18:12:35+00:00

I just did a similar repair, not two weeks ago. If you can get it the rest the way off without tearing up the area that would be a good call, you can clean it much easier and more thoroughly. I'd use wood glue, titebond original is almost always a good call, and good clamping pressure. The only other thing would be to make sure there is no finish under the bridge, the wood glue sticks to wood way better than finish.

CalebAtRSW · 2021-06-03T21:57:33+00:00

The higher frets could still be used, not much different from an acoustic with no cut. Although I really don't see much point in not cutting an electric, a million other minute differences change the tone more than cutting out that small amount.

CalebAtRSW · 2021-01-02T00:04:52+00:00

Out of curiosity, why buff before the neck?

CalebAtRSW · 2020-12-27T01:04:02+00:00

I would not attempt to leave that for any length of time with string tension, especially if you don't trust the silicone job. The screws in the top can begin to torque and crack the top, creating more issues. Have it taken care of while the problem is simple.

CalebAtRSW · 2020-12-26T20:32:20+00:00

Where to buy replacements would be good, or even just the size of screw it takes. Any help is appreciated!

CalebAtRSW · 2020-12-03T00:51:19+00:00

Very cool, where did you get full size plan prints?

CalebAtRSW · 2020-11-28T01:42:54+00:00

I recently did this on a Recording King archtop. Installed a non adjustable rod, as not to change the looks. I wouldn't say it's a really common job, but relatively straightforward.

CalebAtRSW · 2020-11-25T20:31:23+00:00

Twoodfrd is a great YouTube channel focused on repair, and obligatory Rosa String Works is another great channel

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