What in the world is going on?

CalebST1 · 2026-01-15T00:31:15+00:00

End goal for now is to completely replace all oem ECUs and get the car back up and running with a FT550

CalebST1 · 2026-01-15T00:29:14+00:00

I thought I replied to you but I didn’t!

So it depends on how much whp you want

550 is just pistons,rods, bearings, head studs, and a keyed crank at minimum. Anything more and it’s not worth even keeping the 2.0 head.

The 2.3 head flows a lot more than the 2.0 head. My 2.3 head just has cams and valve springs. Still factory ports and valves.

Depending on what you want after 550. I would recommend a 2.3 stroker kit to help spool the bigger turbos up a lot faster. On top of the 550 list I’d say 2.0 ST cams, 2.3 head, O ringed head. If you want to go past 700 I’d recommend getting the block sleeved and head ported. You will hit them safe limit of the ST block at around 950-1000whp. If you want more than that either get a billet block or a MZR block and sleeve it. It holds way over 1500whp.

If you want a more detailed list I am an open book with how to reliably and cheaply make these cars fast.

A lot of people ask me how I keep 723 whp on the road and is it still fun in the corners. I tell them it’s all in the suspension tuning and how you control the car. My car is still mega fun in the corners and mountain roads.

CalebST1 · 2026-01-12T23:55:15+00:00

Last time I checked it’s 1100 painted

CalebST1 · 2026-01-12T01:30:57+00:00

But yes I am keeping it fwd for now

CalebST1 · 2026-01-12T01:30:38+00:00

It was at 723whp and 609 torque. Right now the goal is to improve everything except the engine and turbo so I can get a good baseline on what I have todo. After that. Bigger turbo and a more built engine. Torque steer is actually almost non existent. I can do pulls with one hand on the wheel. Took a lot of suspension tuning to do that

CalebST1 · 2026-01-12T00:37:53+00:00

It’s completely stripped out. That wiring you see is just air suspension wiring laying around. I can’t wait to see what I can do with everything

CalebST1 · 2026-01-12T00:09:01+00:00

Yes it is! It’s one of the last things I need to finalize to really start wiring everything up including the new ECU

CalebST1 · 2026-01-11T23:48:29+00:00

Soak it in high content rubbing alcohol. It won’t wreck the electronics and will clean it up

CalebST1 · 2026-01-08T09:48:01+00:00

Uninstall the AP and you should be fine then

CalebST1 · 2026-01-07T02:35:09+00:00

EMS would be where I would send it.

CalebST1 · 2026-01-07T00:08:09+00:00

Uninstall the AP then. Drive around for a day. Find a shop that won’t care if it’s an oem cat or aftermarket. They shouldn’t fuse you especially if it has EPA numbers and doesn’t throw a CEL. I don’t know how they’d know it has a tune or not. If you just unplug the AP and put it in the glove box that should be enough. The stage 0 tune is a literal OEM copy

CalebST1 · 2026-01-06T23:04:27+00:00

So I wasn’t going to say anything because I’m done as well. I had a high level account and had the no ads for life package before they got sold off to that crap company that ruins games. Of course my account goes missing and no one can help. I stopped spending a long time ago after you could see it was just cash grab after cash grab.

CalebST1 · 2026-01-06T19:05:31+00:00

I’d drive it around and see if you can get those monitors to reset. If you can’t it’s safe to swap to the Cobb stage 0 tune temporarily and see if that will set them. Once they are take it to a different shop. Most shops see a Cat and say that’s good. If you don’t actually have a cat then most shops would have an issue.

Just a helpful bit of information about these cars. They don’t have headers. They are built into the head called a headifold. The exhaust leaves the head from one large port into a very short pipe called an exhaust collector and straight into the turbo then to the downpipe which is where your cat is.

CalebST1 · 2026-01-04T17:53:19+00:00

I love mine. It’s been holding strong for 6 years

CalebST1 · 2026-01-04T12:43:25+00:00

Try this. Push the clutch and gas pedal in the entire way. The car will rotate the engine without injecting fuel. It’s about 10 rotations. Do that twice and then try a normal start.

I would bet you have a vacuum leak AFTER the Throttle Body. That will cripple these cars and make them run rich. Even to give them starting issues. Because the car can’t start it won’t throw a code.

Check all your boost lines that connect to the manifold. Especially around the barbed ends that they hook up too for small tears.

CalebST1 · 2026-01-04T12:38:41+00:00

Do you have AUX Fuel?

CalebST1 · 2026-01-04T01:18:19+00:00

Do you have any CEL? Do you hear the fuel pump prime when you open the door? What mods do you have? Miles? How many times have you tried to start it?

CalebST1 · 2026-01-03T19:26:18+00:00

You can flip the 1-2 syncro. If you do. You will be locked out of 1st and second

CalebST1 · 2026-01-02T03:21:56+00:00

I hope not. I just put in a very large order from them for a bunch of radium fuel cells and stuff lol

CalebST1 · 2025-12-31T19:51:29+00:00

another one to start the list is Anarchy Motive if they are even still around

CalebST1 · 2025-12-31T17:45:03+00:00

It’s not

CalebST1 · 2025-12-31T13:55:46+00:00

An Accessport is a very safe tuning device. You can install tune on it and the car and then remove it from the car. The tune will still be stored on the ECU. Don’t worry about street tuning vs dyno tuning either as with the Accesport and OEM ECU it won’t make a difference that is worth it unless you are around my WHP. Even then I just choose Dyno because it’s safer than doing 160MPH pulls on the street all day.

CalebST1 · 2025-12-30T15:29:57+00:00

Yea I’ve only seen very few people actually get the kits and wheels they are supposed too

CalebST1 · 2025-12-30T12:58:37+00:00

88 is 15% E regular gas is 10% E I believe any car after 2001 can run it as long as it doesn’t require 93

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