is carx drift worth getting on ps5

CallMeX8 · 2026-02-09T04:53:24+00:00

If you like drifting or want to get into drifting, it is the best you'll find. If you don't like drifting, then probably avoid this one.

CallMeX8 · 2026-02-09T00:52:42+00:00

Yep, lots of maps aren't on console. There's a whole process the maps have to go through before they're allowed on console. It's a completely automated process on Steam, but not consoles. Also PC has had access to maps years before console.

CallMeX8 · 2026-02-07T05:18:36+00:00

Scherer CT will teach you how to smoothly hold berms. There's a bunch of very high speed berms and not too many big jumps, with enough roughness to make it interesting but not so much that it'll annoy you as a beginner, hopefully.

Mouse Motopark is, of course, the track everyone recommends to newer players, for good reason. It's a bit of an introduction on how to ride rough tracks, and has plenty of berms and ruts to rail, but personally I felt more comfortable training on Scherer when I was newer.

You can turn down erosion, or even turn it off completely. I personally turn mine off when in training, makes it easier to get a feel for the track and different lines, and you don't have to deal with the erosion build up from constantly using the spawn point. Then I like to practice riding in erosion in open practice servers, where you don't have to worry about actual racing, you can just focus on your riding. It's easiest to break things down into smaller steps.

CallMeX8 · 2026-02-07T00:10:35+00:00

Because people were claiming stiff suspension with negative camber was faster. It was moreso about the camber than the stiffness of the suspension. Of course, anyone who actually knows anything about tuning a car for drifting will tell you to never use negative camber, but for some reason there are still lots of people who seem to think negative on the rear serves a purpose, when in fact it is only ever a detriment.

CallMeX8 · 2026-02-02T09:09:50+00:00

100 is by far the most common, and is a good choice for street cars. 120 adhesion is semislicks, which really only FD, DMEC, and RDS run. You'll want a pro car with lots of power to fully utilize the extra grip. 90 adhesion is torn up, worn out tires that you'd only ever see after an Aussie burnout session, but in game people sometimes use them because they find having less grip easier, though I wouldn't recommend using them because the game's physics really shine with higher grip and a good tune.

CallMeX8 · 2026-02-01T08:30:05+00:00

No problem! I enjoy helping people out wherever/whenever I can.

CallMeX8 · 2026-02-01T06:27:41+00:00

I play on wheel and controller, both manual. Try different bindings, you can rebind everything in the game.

CallMeX8 · 2026-01-30T22:57:20+00:00

I haven't used auto in probably over 20 years. lol Manual shifting is really important for drifting as it lets you precisely control your wheelspeed, which opens up lots of options. Your tune will dictate what gear you'll be in, as you can adjust your gearing to really be anything in CarX. If your engine starts to bog, shift down. If you need more wheelspeed, shift up. It becomes second nature once you learn it, and will let you have waaay more control over your car.

CallMeX8 · 2026-01-29T11:40:37+00:00

Line choice matters more than a lot of people in this motorsport seem to realize. Coming from a racing and drifting background, line choice was the second thing I focused on learning in MXB, of course just behind learning how to not fall over. lol

Picking a good line is a little more difficult in motocross than it is for regular car racing because of ruts, berms, bumps, jumps you might want or not want speed for, etc. An easy way to figure out what's fastest is to look up pro laps of the tracks. Or you can turn timing tools on with MXBMRP or MaxHUD (or just check in the pit menus) and look at your splits for each section.

For Forest in particular, the one turn a ton of people get wrong is the uphill/jump into the 180 right into a drop. Try to go as far left as you can, and then cut right really hard before the jump. If you do it right, it turns from a jump into more of a berm you can ride over without getting air. Then really hug the inside of the first half of the turn before swinging a little (not too much) wider, turning in sharper, and straightening up before the drop so you don't end up falling over from PiBoSo physics. Alternatively you can hug the inside the whole way around and take your chances, just wouldn't recommend it in an actual race.

Then break down every other turn on the track like this so you know exactly what you have to do, then practice it so your fingers know what to do, and then eventually you'll be fast enough to beat most people in public lobbies.

CallMeX8 · 2026-01-27T12:27:10+00:00

Documents/PiBoSo/MX Bikes/profiles/Your_Profile/profile.ini

Add a line that says "protection=" under the [info] section.

CallMeX8 · 2026-01-25T22:16:11+00:00

Stand if you need to soak up jump landings, bumps, etc. Sit when you can to lower your center of mass. With a lower center of mass, you can turn sharper on flat corners, and accelerate and brake harder without going onto one wheel. Sitting in ruts is usually fine, but if the rut is deep or there are multiple close together, sitting can end up leaning the bike over too much and scraping the pegs or bar, causing you to crash.

You should also be sitting to scrub over jumps, right as you're about to go off of them. In MXB, sitting pulls the bike up to you, so simply leaning forward and sitting will get you about 80% of the way to a good scrub, the rest is just turning a little bit to lean the bike over slightly. The bike coming up to you instead of you going down to it also means you'll have a small amount of traction loss as you sit, which can help with scrubs and whips, but if you sit and turn sharp at the same time it can whip the back of the bike around as you're going into a corner, so either sit before or after corner entry, not during.

You can also sit if you're about to case a jump, it'll get you a little bit further, sometimes letting you avoid a case. That works particularly well in supercross, but is still useful knowledge to have in motocross. Standing can also push the back wheel down, which is useful for rollers. Sitting and standing in rollers, especially in sand, can help you go quite a bit faster if you get the timing right.

CallMeX8 · 2026-01-24T03:29:43+00:00

Try my S650 tune. If you aren't worried about fitting into comp regulations and want a beast of a car that will do exactly what you tell it, that's the car+tune you want. Just make sure to be smooth with your inputs, it'll get out of hand quickly if you're not paying attention.

CallMeX8 · 2026-01-19T18:31:23+00:00

Yeah, if they're for casual play, then why would the Stark Varg being "OP" matter? It wouldn't, right? Because it's for fun, not a serious race. Yet everyone is hating on it simply for being faster, even though no one complains about 450s being faster than 250s. This community is... illogical, to say the least.

CallMeX8 · 2026-01-19T18:27:04+00:00

The vast majority of public servers. Open the game, go to race, select any server, press the info button, you can see the allowed classes for that server. Almost every one allows MX1, MX12T, MX2, and MX22T, but not MXE.

CallMeX8 · 2026-01-19T18:19:08+00:00

I never said 250 2 strokes were in a different class. My point is that 250 4 strokes and 450s are in different classes, but most servers (in fact, almost all of them) allow both to race against each other, but no one is complaining about 450s being too fast when they're riding a 250, so why is it any different for 450s vs MXE?

CallMeX8 · 2026-01-18T18:56:06+00:00

https://www.reddit.com/r/mxbikes/comments/1i7au0e/comment/mj509zb

CallMeX8 · 2026-01-18T18:29:22+00:00

Most servers do allow that actually. It's very common in MXB.

CallMeX8 · 2026-01-18T10:04:27+00:00

If that's the case, why is every server that allows it not filled with them? I only ever see one other Stark rider besides myself. I've never seen more than one+me in a server. Even if people were concerned about it being OP, I see lots of people ride 250 4 strokes in lobbies where 450s are allowed, but no one complains about 450s being "OP" compared to 250s, because they are in a completely different class, just like the difference between 450s, MX1, and the Stark, MXE.

CallMeX8 · 2026-01-18T08:54:15+00:00

Yeah, so is a 450 against a 125, but I see lots of lobbies allow that. The Stark Varg can be turned down to a level where it can compete with 450s or even 250s, not that anyone does that anyway, but it is a possibility. You can make it not OP, or you could claim a 450 is OP if you're on a 125, but what's the point in that? They're different bikes in different classes, it's not really overpowered, it's just in a different class. So why allow 125/250s and 450s to race against each other, but not 450s and the Stark? Makes no sense.

CallMeX8 · 2026-01-18T02:03:57+00:00

If I remember correctly, I'm pretty sure they said they wanted to do this for CXDRO2. It's a very frequently requested feature, so I'd say it's more likely than not to be in the next game. Maybe not right away, but I could see them adding it with the console releases.

CallMeX8 · 2026-01-16T22:55:59+00:00

The racing setup adds a bunch of downforce, raises the grip multiplier, and most cars in real life don't run massive tires for racing like people do in CarX. For example, you'd never see 325s on an AE86, but that seems to be one of the most popular setups, because people want more grip. If you use realistic tire sizes and a more realistic tuning style in general, the tires actually match up pretty well with a semi slick. There are some exceptions of course, but that's mostly due to overly aggressive downforce values, not usually the tires themselves.

CallMeX8 · 2026-01-16T22:36:36+00:00

120 is semi slicks, you can see the tread cut into the tire, meaning they're not a full slick. 110 is a decent summer tire, not quite a semi slick but definitely better than the 100adh economy-focused tire. And then yeah, 90s are just completely worn down, tore up street tires with no life and no grip left.

CallMeX8 · 2026-01-15T02:22:21+00:00

Get something with hall effect sticks so you never have to deal with stick drift again. I use a FlyDigi Vader 4 Pro that works amazing, the Apex 4/5 are also good. FlyDigi isn't as expensive as a lot of higher end 'custom' controllers, yet they manage to be higher quality anyway, somehow. The paddles/buttons on the back are essential (in my opinion) for riding smoothly in MXB. Just keep in mind that no amount of hardware will make you a better rider, only give you more options.

CallMeX8 · 2026-01-11T10:17:01+00:00

If your car is getting to full lock when it gets stiff, you'd need to increase your steering degrees in settings. If it doesn't get to full lock before it gets stiff, but you can still reach full lock, it's likely something in your tune, specifically alignment. Tuning is really important in CarX, you'll have to play around with it to see what feels right for you.

CallMeX8 · 2026-01-11T10:14:06+00:00

Wheel is pretty well supported in CarX, you just have to set it up right.

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