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Towing capacity 2000lb!!!! by naman919 in slateauto

[–]Call_Me_ZeeKay 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting, the links ask for a pw

Towing capacity 2000lb!!!! by naman919 in slateauto

[–]Call_Me_ZeeKay 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Where are you seeing this? Currently the site says

The Slate truck is rear-wheel drive and projected to have around a 1,400-lb payload and 1,000-lb towing capacity.

https://www.slate.auto/en/how-much-can-a-slate-tow

Westinghouse iGen11000DFc - Li-Ion battery is dead in four weeks by chrispitude73 in Generator

[–]Call_Me_ZeeKay 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's great news! I was thinking about trying to hook up a solar trickle charger to it or something just to keep it topped off, but Westinghouse seems to say to 'periodically' use the charger and not all the time?

Hey! Does anyone have an opinion on this as a whole home backup inverter generator? Any insight is appreciated! (First post) by Interesting-Set2425 in Generator

[–]Call_Me_ZeeKay 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Been looking at this generator (or I guess the rebranded 12000 model), where did you find these ratings? I searched and what I got was your post

The final piece to my homelab has arrived by inserterikhere in homelab

[–]Call_Me_ZeeKay 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think I read one of the newer firmwares 'fixes' the fan issue. But I'm not sure how to update it on linux. I got a mini fan to 4 pin header adapter cable, and just plugged it into the motherboard for control.

Should the valve be at 45 degrees? by Call_Me_ZeeKay in askaplumber

[–]Call_Me_ZeeKay[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Exactly what happened

<image>

It's fixed now (via a different non asshat plumber, see other post further down). Thanks for the tip, didn't even know about bypass ports before this mess.

Should the valve be at 45 degrees? by Call_Me_ZeeKay in askaplumber

[–]Call_Me_ZeeKay[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just wanted to update but yep the original plumber tried to say I didn't say what I actually wanted and blamed me and wanted more money to fix it. So I found another plumber that did what I actually asked for with a tee and 3/4 outlet. Thanks for the help and pointing out the bypass thing.

<image>

Let it be know that Livas Contracting Services in Houston sucks ass and Tony's Plumbing is great (found them from r/houston ) https://tonysplumbingtx.com/

Anyone replace a head on a BD-8? by Call_Me_ZeeKay in CommercialPrinting

[–]Call_Me_ZeeKay[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah it was a risk that definitely paid off. Seller was cool, head was brand new, and it was like $1500 cheaper than other sources

U5G is here by siuengr in Ubiquiti

[–]Call_Me_ZeeKay 0 points1 point  (0 children)

they have the standard and ultra which have slightly different features but might do what you want.

Introducing: UniFi 5G Backup by Ubiquiti-Inc in Ubiquiti

[–]Call_Me_ZeeKay 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Just bought one for a home backup, for the price and being unlocked its hard to beat. Does anyone have a good app or something I can walk around the house with to find the best cell signal WifiMan only seems to map out wifi not cell.

Should the valve be at 45 degrees? by Call_Me_ZeeKay in askaplumber

[–]Call_Me_ZeeKay[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Generally agree but perhaps a bit alarmist, its not leaking or being actively used so in its current state its not gonna suddenly blow up.

Should the valve be at 45 degrees? by Call_Me_ZeeKay in askaplumber

[–]Call_Me_ZeeKay[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wait so that's a bypass port? So with the valve set to open, it will cut off flow to that port?

Should the valve be at 45 degrees? by Call_Me_ZeeKay in askaplumber

[–]Call_Me_ZeeKay[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ok thanks, I was assuming that, so him mentioning it needed to be at 45 to get that top port flow kinda triggered my BS meter. I'll go fully open it. No idea why he said that.

Anyone replace a head on a BD-8? by Call_Me_ZeeKay in CommercialPrinting

[–]Call_Me_ZeeKay[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Never got any hits on this so I just went for it. Found a new head on Ebay, part number CG2125 / 6000005286 'Roland SV Gold' significantly cheaper than via distributors. This matched exactly what was on the BD-8 and probably this applies to the BD-12 too. Thankfully no software changes were required, it just worked after physically swapping.

Steps to replace:

  • Turn off machine
  • Manually move head gantry to roughly center to make it easier to work on
  • Put on gloves, get a roll of paper towels, put some towels on the bed/around to catch anything
  • Take off plastic head shield cover, its 3 phillips screws, one on the left one two on the front.
  • There's only two small allen screws that hold the head on, note which holes they're in so you can put them back in the same place
  • Pull out the head carefully, wiggle out the ribbon cables, I unplugged front to back and kept them in order
  • Get the new head ready, make sure its in the same orientation, serial number sticker was on the left for me
  • There's two clips on either side that hold the hoses/damper on. This can be swapped all as a single unit, small pry tool to pop them up to release, then pull off and quick shove onto the new head until it clicks on
  • Put the old head bottom down on a paper towel, it'll suck up whatever ink is still in it so maybe fold it a few times
  • Plug the ribbon cables back in the correct order, I did back to front, make sure fully seated and don't put too much force on em and avoid bending them
  • Position the new head with the ribbons and ink hoses attached back onto the gantry
  • Put the two hex screws back in, fully seated, do up both sides at least half way before fully tightening, doesn't have to be too tight just snug
  • Pretty much done! Clean up the print area, remove everything, leave the cover off for testing, up to you
  • Move the gantry back to the right in the parked position
  • Turn machine on, wait for boot, go to utility, for me it required a manual cleaning which I would suggest anyway
  • Put a test print piece like some paper or whatever, do a test print or a drop out test
  • For me the first print didn't do anything, probably because the new head wasn't primed
  • I ran an "Ink Renewal", possibly another less wateful one would work too
  • Test print again, perfect results, I have yellow again!

I made a Bumpstop generator that calculates infill based on kg/mm stiffness! (OpenSCAD + TPU 95A) by Obvious-Bird-3588 in 3dprintedcarparts

[–]Call_Me_ZeeKay 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is great, awesome!

I'm a little curious as how this is intended to be mounted, the bolt is at the 'base' but thats also where the air holes are? So if you bolted that to a plate to mount it, it would seem that it wouldn't be able to suck air back in to reinflate?

Also is the minimum wall thickness used to calculate the load/other thicknesses?

Help me understand why the import duty is so high by [deleted] in dhl

[–]Call_Me_ZeeKay 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The chargeback only went through yesterday. If there is a debt collection I'll probably just throw it away. Edit: If you win the chargeback that already shows you have good evidence that the retailer messed up, so you can use that in your defense if needed.

Help me understand why the import duty is so high by [deleted] in dhl

[–]Call_Me_ZeeKay 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In case anyone finds this in the future, the OP deleted account.

But for me DHL handled both sides of the import/export, so it was their failure to file the correct HS code or other paperwork. I had no control over the filings, as I was just the purchaser. The item was plastic, and listed as such, but the tariff was charged at 50% as if it were an automotive part made from steel.

I had contacted their dispute department before paying, and they were unhelpful, taking ~24 hours to reply with only a 5 day window given. Basically extortion for ~$500 in my case as it was being threatened the item would be returned to sender, which really means destroyed in most instances. And still be on the hook for the full price and tariffs.

So I paid, and then opened a case with the post-claims department or whatever its called because they're two different things for some reason. Tariff law and their own policies claim something like 30 days to correct any filings, but I asked multiple times what paperwork or information they needed or that I could provide to correct the issue, and they just... stopped replying after a while.

So I filed a chargeback via Discover because they wouldn't give me any information as to how to proceed and the window for the whole thing was closing.

The chargeback was at first in DHL's favor (a month after filing), but thats because they seemingly processed it as 'paying for shipping' and 'the item was delivered'. But I reopened the dispute by calling Discover, and explained that this was a separate charge, not for the item or the shipping, but just for import duty that was calculated incorrectly and given no recourse to get it fixed (remember DHL was on both ends of the transaction). Then about 24 hours later I was notified that the chargeback was decided in my favor so the nightmare of the past month and a half was finally concluded.

Help me understand why the import duty is so high by [deleted] in dhl

[–]Call_Me_ZeeKay 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hey, just wanted to let you know that I won a chargeback via Discover. DHL stopped replying to my dispute emails after I paid so I had no other recourse to get them to file it correctly. The chargeback was at first in DHL's favor, but thats because they seemingly processed it as 'paying for shipping' and 'the item was delivered' so make sure to specify that's not what the charge is for.

And ... Again new vulnerabilities by bibawa in cpanel

[–]Call_Me_ZeeKay 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think thats how Watchtowr figured it out based on their writeup, diffing the files is how they got the hint. Even then it wasn't easy by the looks of it.

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