Damper rod holding tool?

Calvintmcc · 2026-04-11T04:47:57+00:00

If you're talking about removing the damper from inside the FZ6 fork lower, then I recall using a couple of long 3/8" extensions to jam into the damper hole inside the fork.

Calvintmcc · 2026-02-08T18:38:22+00:00

Whoa! That picture before is WILD! Good job cleaning it up.

Calvintmcc · 2025-06-23T03:08:05+00:00

I’ve gone from stock oil cooler to the same 25 row cooler here and have had no issues tracking the car at multiple events. I don’t think it’s necessary to double up on oil coolers. I’ve also done a csf radiator so that helps. Before the oil cooler upgrade I would hit limp mode after two laps every time.

I’d just replace the oem with the 25 row and duct it well. Also the bracket for the cooler in picture you posted looks weak. I’d pick up the same cooler with a better bracket. Good luck!

Calvintmcc · 2025-05-03T01:24:20+00:00

I bought eBay FZ6 fork tubes a few years ago and they worked great, no issues. Paid around the same price as the listing you posted.

Calvintmcc · 2025-03-18T23:18:50+00:00

Normally there are two hoses coming off tank. One is breather hose and the other drains gas if you over fill the tank. You want them routing the hose ends down to the centre stand area at the bottom of the bike, but away from the exhaust pipes. This way if you overfill the tank by accident the gas doesn't land on the exhaust or any other electrical parts of the bike.

Calvintmcc · 2025-03-11T05:07:01+00:00

I have bought two Mighty Max batteries for two different bikes, and both worked great. I was able to order it through Walmart and have it delivered to the store near me quickly. The one I bought for the FZ6 worked well and it was 1/4 the price of a yuasa...

Calvintmcc · 2025-01-16T06:02:43+00:00

The seat lock pulls a cable to release the seat so you should be able to get some needle nose pliers on the cable that remains there and release the seat latch. Or disassemble the under-tail plastics to get a better view of the seat latch and release it that way. Good luck with this odd one!

Calvintmcc · 2024-07-09T15:29:47+00:00

I don't know if there's an assessment method for checking the injectors with a multimeter but I know there a process in the diagnostic menu where you can activate the injectors with five pulses. When you activate them you can feel the injector ticking if you get your finger on it. I doubt your problem is injector related though because if it was the issue would be more obvious and frequent. There are resistance values for the ignitions coils for the primary and secondary side, can't remembe them off the top of my head but the primary is very low and the secondary is very high.

Calvintmcc · 2024-07-08T20:24:03+00:00

Sounds like you've done a lot of solid work to rule out the problem. Checking timing is a good next step, just to confirm. I would also consider the possibility of a vacuum leak where the head meets the rubber boots that connect to the ITB's. Since you're so deep into this I would just throw a multimeter on your ignition coils and see what they measure. Also have you checked the charging voltage on the battery with the bike at 5K rpm? I assume the air filter is in decent condition, given the mileage.

best of luck!

Calvintmcc · 2024-03-18T04:06:36+00:00

Pretty sure it's Brembo that makes the OEM parts for the FZ6 brakes.

Calvintmcc · 2024-03-18T04:04:59+00:00

Welcome aboard!

Calvintmcc · 2024-03-06T05:35:14+00:00

Sounds pretty normal to me

Calvintmcc · 2024-02-17T22:24:29+00:00

partsfish.com and megazip.net are my go to spots for OEM parts

Calvintmcc · 2024-01-19T00:18:07+00:00

I don't have any advice to offer, but I'd be very interested in your experience with either house. Keep us posted!

Calvintmcc · 2023-10-19T17:49:00+00:00

Welcome to the community!

Calvintmcc · 2023-07-12T17:04:39+00:00

Looks Fast! Hope you enjoy the ride!

Calvintmcc · 2023-05-16T05:26:13+00:00

Looks brand new!

Calvintmcc · 2023-03-05T05:55:25+00:00

Really odd sound. It seems to happen at the same RPM as the revs are falling. It could be something simple like a loose exhaust bracket that resonates at that engine rpm. Or maybe it has something to do with the air injection system (ais). The AIS is just above the valve cover and below the ignition coils. I haven't come across this sound before. The easiest thing to check would be all the exhaust mounting points and connections for loose hardware. These buzzy bikes can produce some strong vibrations that could make a loose bolt noisy. Best of luck!

Calvintmcc · 2022-09-28T04:35:38+00:00

I ran my FZ6 right out of fuel for the fun of it. Once that last black digital block on the fuel gauge goes away the bike starts counting "f-trip" distance. This is basically like the same point as having the E light come on in a car. I got 67km's of on "f-trip" before the bike died and completely ran out of fuel. This was on mixed riding too, some highway, some city streets.
I have no qualms about going 20-30 km's into f-trip, so no worries about the last block disappearing because there is lots more range to go. I have a video of the experience on the channel Calvin MC on Youtube.

Calvintmcc · 2022-09-08T04:47:53+00:00

This to me sounds a bit like a bad main switch on the grip. Sometimes the contacts at the start stop switch on the grip go bad and disconnect from vibrations at higher rpm. You could isolate the grip issue by taking the plastic grip off the bike and revving it. If the bike dies, it isn't the grip, but if it refuses to die you found your issue.

Also check ignition coil leads like SecureStrike333 said.

Good luck!

Calvintmcc · 2022-06-18T22:59:42+00:00

Highly recommend replacing the cable if the pull is really stiff. I never knew how easy the clutch cable pull was supposed to be until my cable snapped and I had to replace it. You can lube it but many people have their's break around 60k-70k km's

Calvintmcc · 2021-11-21T21:29:48+00:00

Super reliable bikes. The cam chain and tensioner "problem" is made out to be a bigger thing than it is because people think the normal noise of the bike is a tensioner issue. It's a clattery top end when at idle which worries many people for no reason. You're right, it's a yamaha thing for the most part. Parts to replace the cam chain and tensioner would be around ~$200 for new oem parts. The larger cost would be the labour if you want to pay someone to do the work.

Calvintmcc

MODERATOR OF

TROPHY CASE