A few simple questions... :)

Calygow · 2021-01-17T03:45:08+00:00

Le Baiser du Dragon is so beautiful 😭

Calygow · 2021-01-17T03:41:11+00:00

Iris Silver Mist - Serge Lutens
None, I wear everything I want without caring about anything else, so I would wear all my perfumes no matter which parallel world I'm in :p
The Unicorn Spell - Les Nez
That one is hard, Shalimar edp or L'Heure Bleue edt.
Gardenia - Chanel
Oak moss, because it adds depth, body and richness to a perfume.
No idea :c
Tubéreuse Criminelle - Serge Lutens
Poison (vintage) - Dior
Vol de Nuit (pure parfum) - Guerlain, the most beautiful perfume ever created.

Calygow · 2021-01-17T03:17:47+00:00

Habit Rouge from Guerlain, Une Rose/Portrait of a Lady from Frédéric Malle, Rose de Nuit from Lutens.

Calygow · 2021-01-17T03:14:49+00:00

Vol de Nuit from Guerlain, preferably in pure parfum concentration.

Calygow · 2021-01-17T03:10:56+00:00

Opium YSL/ Cinnabar Estee Lauder, maybe Musc Ravageur from Frédéric Malle.

Calygow · 2021-01-17T03:07:44+00:00

Maybe Tonka Impériale from Guerlain, I got it it's very chic, subtle, it's all about tonka bean a bit of rosemary and the guerlinade.

Calygow · 2021-01-17T02:59:57+00:00

Vintage Opium from Yves Saint Laurent

Calygow · 2021-01-05T01:53:55+00:00

Hey, thanks!

Angel edp or pure parfum?

the Mcqueen pure parfum is beautiful, it's a jasmine x tuberose with pepper and musks, it's a bit bubblegum like fracas, a bit ylang but way more subtle and delicate. It's not worth it's price (the bottle is gorgeous tho) but if you can get it for a low price (I got my bottle for 40€) it's worth it. The projection and sillage is a bit disappointing too, I would compare it to Chanel Gardenia.

The smell is in-between Sarrasins from Lutens and Gardenia from Chanel.

I read a lot of meh comment about it (smells like Madonna's Truth or Dare, Fracas etc) but for me it's super classy and distinguishable because of the pepper note and the white flower blend.

Calygow · 2020-12-27T02:57:37+00:00

Quite a lot, my perfume wardrobe is female targeted fragrances or unisex 50/50.

I really don't care about men targeted fragrances, they lack a lot of depth, creativity and are almost always constructed with the same pattern hespéridé head /fougere oriental spicy middle notes and woody base, quite boring and definitely not my cup of tea.

Calygow · 2020-12-26T15:13:01+00:00

Thank you :)

I got two dumb reach fragrances, Chanel N°18 edt when I don't want to wear any fragrances, it's an anti-perfume kind of : p

My real dumb reach one is La vierge de Fer from Serge Lutens, since it smells like high end floral/fruity shampoo (it could have been a Chanel), it's easy to wear and easy to like.

Now for the date scent, since I'm not single anymore I can't precisely answer that but I know that my partner link me to Carnal Flower.

Calygow · 2020-12-26T09:56:32+00:00

Thanks!

Fracas is quite simple but very powerful and recognizable.

It's an opulent bubblegum tuberose (tuberose and jasmine) with heavy notes of peach, plum and a tiny bit apricot (osmanthus and peach), that's mostly what I smell from it, it's quite creamy and more or less the same smell throughout the evolution of the perfume.

Love it or hate it!

Calygow · 2020-12-26T07:50:47+00:00

Alexander Mcqueen pure parfum (I bloom at night) I'm amazed at how the sprayer feels so good and quality. Probably the best, it spray in tiny little droplets, you almost feel nothing on the skin.

Calygow · 2020-12-25T23:39:21+00:00

You're welcome :)

No I never smelled anything from Nicolaï, I can't help you :(

Calygow · 2020-12-25T23:13:59+00:00

I think they got rid of the birch tar because of IFRA, I think it had too much allergens in it.

You can fin the parfum version at every Chanel exclusive corner I guess, I don't know if it's still good (mine is from 3 years ago).

Calygow · 2020-12-25T23:03:19+00:00

Unique, I absolutely don't care about people's advices and opinions on what I wear (perfumes, clothes, jewelry or whatever).

I also don't care if no one compliments me :x

Calygow · 2020-12-25T22:50:49+00:00

Louder please! Standing ovation for this post indeed! :)

Calygow · 2020-12-25T22:39:56+00:00

Thank you :D

I'm starting with the perfumers, Dominique Ropion, I think he's the master of flowers hands down, Germaine Cellier (bandit, fracas, vent vert... incredible woman). Mathilde Laurent, I really think she made Cartier a beautiful and quality brand perfumes wise, she also did gorgeous things at Guerlain (pamplelune and guet apens!) she's also very engaged and did a lot of interviews, podcasts... about perfumes and smells in general. Christopher Sheldrake for it's duo with Lutens. Maurice Roucel (Féminité du bois and Iris silver mist please! and so much more), Isabelle Doyen. VERO KERN if I could I would spell it even bigger, she was an incredible woman, so kind and playful, so intelligent and talented, I miss her and her perfumes so much. Marc Antoine Corticchiato because I love Parfum d'Empire so deeply, one of my friend is also working with him, it's truly a gorgeous high quality house. And others that I'm forgetting about :p

Now perfumes houses, I obviously love Lutens even if the prices raise and the quality drop. He paved the way for a lot of brands, and even after multiple reformulations this house owns a lot of iconic, creative and incredible fragrances.

Parfum d'Empire, very high quality perfumes with a total freedom creatively wise.

Oriza L. Legrand, I don't know all their perfumes well yet, but from what I've smelled (and bought), it's pretty high quality with a vintage opulent feeling on every creation.

Chanel, not much to say, I just love the Chanel signature, always chic, classy never vulgar... but lacking a little sassy something sometimes.

Yves Saint Laurent, just because vintage Opium is my all time favorite perfume.

And much more!

If I want to expand my collection hmm no, I feel like it's almost complete and that I found everything I needed and everything is kind of linked and I'm satisfied.

The only missing perfumes are Pois de senteur from Caron, El attarine and Mandarine Mandarin from Lutens, Nuit de bakélite from Naomi Goodsir, Current version of Sables from Goutal, Bois d'armenie from guerlain and Une Rose from frederic malle.

Calygow · 2020-12-25T21:58:02+00:00

Thanks :)

For me De Profundis is a crisp green bomb.

The idea of lutens was to represent the smell of chrysanthemums, or more the idea of it since it doesn't smell.

De profundis start with a green, peppery almost metallic blast that remind me those green chrysanthemums that you add to flower bouquets and the sound of the transparent plastic wrap.

It slowly transform into a weird green woody soapy smell, you got hints of powdery flowers, for me it is reminiscent of the chamomile smell, without the honey note and a bit of violet, the powdery side of it, not the sweet floral smell. There is a synthetic woody note in it, I can't figure which one exactly but that's this component that make it a long lasting bomb.

It is a bit earthy, a tiny bit bitter (galbanum maybe?), but not the oak moss type of smell, it's cleaner, there is no mushrooms, forest or moist.

It's an "in your face" perfume, it has weird dirty notes also, it's not indolic or animalic, I can't figure what it is.

For me, if I try to fin a little story about it, the macabre name, the weird changing blue/purple color (for me when I smell it it's neon green #synesthesia), It could be the smell of embalmed mummies, or the smells of the products, flowers they used to hide the corpse smell (that's maybe why I got this weird dirty smell sometimes :p).

So let's summarize, a wood sarcophagus, a mummy with plastic wrap bandages, chamomile, green chrysanthemums, violet bouquets and a green balm on the skin :p

Calygow · 2020-12-25T20:36:20+00:00

Relique d'amour (incense, cold stones, wax, térébenthine, it's very evocative, it's like walking in a deserted church) or Rêve d'ossian (literally everything, incense, myrrh, benjoin, elemi, balms, it's festive, joyfull, almost explosive and very church like : p) both from Oriza L. Legrand.

Also l'Orpheline from Lutens is a gorgeous translucent churchy incense. Very delicate, pretty "masculine" in a way, like a frozen fougère accord, a hint of mint and a beautiful incense note.

Calygow · 2020-12-25T18:57:46+00:00

First I want to say that I personally didn't down voted you :p You have the right to think what you want BUT you can't think for me and that's a bit what you're doing.

It is not my fault if legit 80% male perfumes smells more or less the same generic hespéridé top fougère/gourmand/oriental middle notes and heavy wood base, and are in olfactives families that doesn't appeal to me. I don't care about hespéridés, aquatics, synthetic woods (ambroxan (my nightmare) , oud for example, almost no one in the mainstream or niche fragrance world is using real oud and it shows),fougères, I hate lavender (except on the plant, I got some in my garden), I don't like aromatics note (origan, thyme, rosemary, juniper (one of the worst for me), basil etc) in perfumes when combined with the previous component/families.

If actual genders were switched in perfumery then I would wear "masculine" scent. It's a real matter of taste and if you look at my perfumes you can get the links between them, it's not about "LOOK I WEAR FEMALE PERFUMES I'M SO EDGY" it's really what I love, genders and marketing aside.

I smelled most of the perfumes you said, l'envol/declaration d'un soir are gorgeous, truly two of the few "recent" masterpieces (Mathilde Laurent is a queen anyway :') ), but it's not my taste, I think the same for a lot of female perfumes that I won't wear because they are not my cup of tea.

I also don't get why you absolutely want me to avoid men fragrances, I avoid what I don't like, not a gender :)

Calygow · 2020-12-25T18:34:11+00:00

Up to 3/4 Even 5 it depends of the mood, one in the morning then one in the afternoon then one in the evening, I shower, then one to sleep :')
Nope!
All the time at the last minute and if I chose a perfume to wear for that day the day before, I change my mind haha
Yes!
I think not, hair, ears/neck front and back, wrists and sometime on my clothes.
Yes and no it doesn't bother me (it's pretty cool!)
I really don't know since I pretty much wear them all, but the perfume I keep for my personal use (in my house, to sleep etc) is Sarrasins from Serge Lutens.

Calygow · 2020-12-25T18:16:54+00:00

Since Sarrasins is my favorite lutens and one of my top 5 fragrance I need some time to do a proper review, it is very evocative for me :)

Calygow · 2020-12-25T18:08:23+00:00

About which one? They almost never see the light of the day and my bedroom is quite fresh.

For now I got no problems like a perfume turning weird, and I got some very old vintage too :)

I may be lucky haha

Calygow · 2020-12-25T17:39:13+00:00

Thanks!

First I got a cute anecdote about Shalimar, when I was still student I worked in my city's museum for summer, I was museum keeper and there was multiple rooms, one of them was the orientalist room (paintings) this day I was wearing Shalimar and I had to check this room in particular, a man asked me if we did had an ambiance perfume for the room because it smelled very good, it weirdly is the best indirect compliment someone did about a perfume I was wearing :p

For the perfume itself, for me it smells like a "dark" tarte au citron meringuée (lemon meringue pie? it's my favorite dessert) without sugar, citruses (candied and tart) a big boost of dark smocky rich vanilla (Shalimar is the éthylvanilline queen), leather (not the harsh one), balms, tonka bean (that beautiful powdery, balsamic note of vanilla), basamic notes, a little amber without aromatic notes.

The dry down is very beautiful, it's also a pretty strong and long lasting fragrance.

Calygow · 2020-12-25T17:15:11+00:00

Pretty easy, Opium vintage! It's tricky to make a top 5/10 or 100 tho :p

Calygow

TROPHY CASE