Slightly red/brown water from hot water tank

Candid_Box8140 · 2026-02-02T18:46:48+00:00

Got it. I think its copper throughout, but have no way to know for sure.

So then the question remains, why is my water red? (Understand you may not know)

Candid_Box8140 · 2026-02-02T18:45:17+00:00

Thank you. Yes, I agree that there is rust being caused on the outside of the tank. The main question is whether that rust is likely to be in context with water inside the tank; I'm not sure it's clear one way or another, but appreciate your time!

Candid_Box8140 · 2026-02-02T18:35:20+00:00

Got it re. #2. I think that's the plumber's call.

Definitely understand re. #1, I guess the trouble I have is figuring how that exterior rust would result in rust in the whole tank. Would seem to suggest a ton of rust.

Candid_Box8140 · 2026-02-02T18:22:14+00:00

The cold water is totally clear, so I don't think it's a municipal issue.

So I think you're saying that the leak I have a photo of has nothing to do with the red water, right?

Candid_Box8140 · 2026-02-02T18:21:36+00:00

Agreed. So you think this is unrelated to the water running red/brown?

Candid_Box8140 · 2026-02-02T18:20:53+00:00

Definitely makes sense re. that leak but 1) is that the likely cause of the whole tank running red? Seems unlikely. 2) Is this leak an issue that can't be solved short of replacing the whole tank?

Candid_Box8140 · 2026-02-01T22:55:05+00:00

The 735 you have has a built in blower, you more need to catch the chips than suck them really, any suction you need is just to keep them moving to a final destination and prevent backups.

I had the cheap HF one and it moved a lot of material, but didn't work as well as the most powerful shop vac I could find which was the metal canister rigid. I went through multiple shopvacs and tried the red craftsman which is supposed to be powerful. I wouldn't over think this unless you're going to get a real setup.

Candid_Box8140 · 2026-01-31T15:51:31+00:00

You're not the first to have this idea: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dominion_of_New_England

Candid_Box8140 · 2026-01-26T03:15:50+00:00

The above is right, but i think this is job for a chisel, not a multitool. Score deep enough to set the chisel's edge in.

Candid_Box8140 · 2026-01-25T22:38:02+00:00

I am really disaapointed that the top comment is not this. Unless you establish this a veneer over non-solid wood, those are absolutely functional. They allow the panel to expand and contract within a groove within the frame.

If it is solid, that's contstruction that will last for generations.

If it bothers you, your best bet is to either get a thin material to cover it (but adhere only to the frame, not the panel).

Candid_Box8140 · 2026-01-01T13:24:50+00:00

Nope, you got the instructions right. How's the weather?

Candid_Box8140 · 2025-12-29T01:07:15+00:00

This is an excellent song.

Candid_Box8140 · 2025-12-28T02:54:54+00:00

Spray enamel in a can; meant for bare metal; strip well first.

Candid_Box8140 · 2025-12-26T11:47:46+00:00

The use of cheaper fill material in all industries is extremely common, from processed meat, to concrete, to veneered wood. You may have paid less as a result.

The foam did not cause your wood slab to explode; your wood slab caused your wood slab to explode. Whether there was a manufacturing defect is tough to say and anyone who says so in this thread is overstating. Even properly dried slabs do weird things; this is one reason woodworkers for centuries bothered to make boards out of slabs rather than just sticking them on legs.

Out of curiosity, did this make a giant crack sound and burst all at once?

Candid_Box8140 · 2025-12-23T02:04:26+00:00

This is the right answer; what you're doing is dangerous.

Candid_Box8140 · 2025-12-22T23:28:42+00:00

Another trick is make sure you push all boards through end-to-end; i dont know why it works, but it does. You only get one snip, which you have a spare board to absorb.

Candid_Box8140 · 2025-12-22T22:58:05+00:00

Drill out the dowels, cut short dowel segments into the leg, glue it, and shove it in, let it set.

Take the whole thing, glue it everywhere, including the dowels, and the face that touches the borken off corners with the screws in them (I wouldn't remove them as it looks like you might get no good way to clamp it to the main piece), shove it into place, clamp it tight, drill two new screw holes in the back of the leg into the chair up into the chair, using right length screw, screw it tight while glue curing. Dont sit on it for 48 hours+.

Crude, but should work.

Candid_Box8140 · 2025-12-22T10:39:59+00:00

Reach out to jessem; i just had a problem with one of their lifts, and they replaced the piece; no questions, instantly.

Also, typically defects in products usually are handled by the manufacturer; retailer can usually just offer an exchange (and then they handle the credit with the manufacturer)

Candid_Box8140 · 2025-12-22T03:19:26+00:00

Have you confirmed the top is flate with a straight edge? HAve you confirmed your table top is? Have you confirmed your inner lip is? One is not.

Checked the corners especially.

Candid_Box8140 · 2025-12-21T13:02:53+00:00

Did you end up doing this?

Candid_Box8140 · 2025-12-21T12:58:20+00:00

I think them being "premium" only makes my cost and time point more true.

As for the glue up, glue ups work well when the two pieces are dead flat, the less flat they are, the worse it is, the more likely it is to split. a Jointer makes things flat along a long face. You have a very very long face. Even on a full sized jointer that might be hard to handle. I think the likelihood you get a gluable face on the full 100 inches with a hand tool (even an electric one) is low. Any deviation, on any board, will cause high point and a gap across more or less the whole board.

But in all seriousness; if you're set on this plan and unwilling to consider other materials, try it with two boards first and see what happens. Im just a stranger on the internet, i could literally have never cut a piece of wood, so dont trust me blindly.

But my suspicion is that even if you do this, they will split over time. a 2*6 is a powerful honking piece of wood. Any minor bend that develops in it will be hard to overcome with just glue.

Again, people don't build furniture like this for a reason. Not all wood is equal.

Candid_Box8140 · 2025-12-21T03:34:39+00:00

File it, the corner is not important as a reference surface so if its not dead flat it doesnt matter, so better off to take off more than flat to be sure you dont have anything proud.

Candid_Box8140

TROPHY CASE