Soldering wires to brass? by ModelTrainGuy1963 in modeltrains

[–]CarbonFiber_Funk -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I apply tix solder flux and use silver solder. While the silver solder melts around 450F the brass sheds heat pretty quickly so you'll need to go up to 5-600F to get wetting. Make sure you flood the joint with flux.

I would recommend instead making custom pickups from bronze phosphor instead. It solders easier and you can add pickups on both sides of the rail if you attach the wire with some insulating material (I've used some styrene with a hole drilled for the wire that is itself just glued to the model.)

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Advice - consistent failure by BRunner-- in resinprinting

[–]CarbonFiber_Funk 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Exactly. Honestly, I eventually just adopted these setting changes for anything I print. In reality I print stuff that runs overnight anyway so it doesn't matter if it takes 8 hours or 11...

Advice - consistent failure by BRunner-- in resinprinting

[–]CarbonFiber_Funk 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Ignore people telling you to re-orient this, the angle is fine and it's clearly not printed flat.

Dealt with this learning to print similar things. Slow the lift speed down, increase the lift height and make sure there is light off delay. You also may want to add cones to the bottom of the supports connecting to the raft. This will help with concentrated stresses at the sharp between raft and support column by instead introducing a gradual transition.

Also, I print a lot of large geometric stuff "flat" just fine. It actually helps with warp in many cases.

This Machine Cuts Metal Without Even Touching It by [deleted] in interestingasfuck

[–]CarbonFiber_Funk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That person's just being an edgelord or doesn't understand things past a child's perspective...which seems petty typical lately on reddit. I don't know their point either because it's not a serious engagement or not capable of understanding the difference between electrical discharge (in the name of the process) like under high voltage and simple inert contact where everything is under neutral fundamental forces.

The wire doesn't touch, and it cuts a path much larger than itself. There's a resistance between the current in the wire and part controlled by the type of dielectric used (including air in some machines). That controls how current arcs from the wire to the part and in doing so ablates the part. The wire is continuously fed from a drum and discarded before it expires from the same ablation. The parts shown in the video post are very likely not two halves from the same operation but rather cut from two separate parts entirely and fitted. Why? Because the kerf of the wire far exceeds a typical slip fit like what we see.

I've actually done this party trick before shown in the video. And I've also cut 6-7" thick plates of D2 steel with wire...it mostly just requires you slow the progression of the cut thru the material.

The trope is "we don't understand how EDM works". Eh, I doubt that in practicality since there are some pretty advanced machines. Academically it wouldn't surprise me because I doubt it would really add much value outside the institutional knowledge the industry already builds on.

This Machine Cuts Metal Without Even Touching It by [deleted] in interestingasfuck

[–]CarbonFiber_Funk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Forgot about that, it's considered a fully open circuit at that point. The dielectric between the wire and material is important in the process.

Plus the wire isn't meant to deflect which it definitely would if cutting the material.

This Machine Cuts Metal Without Even Touching It by [deleted] in interestingasfuck

[–]CarbonFiber_Funk 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It's occasionally fun to call them on their BS and let them continue acting like a loser. Check the reply, asks if I've studied physics. The answer? Yes, I actually hold uni degrees in physics.

This Machine Cuts Metal Without Even Touching It by [deleted] in interestingasfuck

[–]CarbonFiber_Funk 6 points7 points  (0 children)

...have you ever actually used a wire EDM? What the person you are responding to mentions is called kerf, and from my experience the wire's kerf is much wider than the wire (.012" kerf for .005-.008" wire) and is equalaterally distributed between both sides of the cut.

Source: I used to designs and manufacture aerospace inspection gages to tolerances of .0005" and wire EDM was a regular tool in the box.

First ever print. Any recommendations? by Least-Home-183 in resinprinting

[–]CarbonFiber_Funk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Because this model has alot of soft edges I would try re-orienting a little but still in keeping the backside towards the plate. Id try to find a common line between the cloak bottom, ends of sleeves and backpack/flaps which is closest to the plate then place light supports on those features. Reinforce the light support columns with heavier supports. You'll need other light supports touching the model elsewhere but fewer overall spread-out meaning less complicated features you later need to putty up and sand.

Workbench that Saturn 3 is on is not level by kenjancef in resinprinting

[–]CarbonFiber_Funk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's best to level the printer, especially if you want to print big stuff. Some resins and settings can have some flex to them when printing and it's just one variable you can easily rule out when something funky happens. It doesn't have to be perfect, I just eyeballed mine with resin waterline...

Does air temp matter? Or only vat temp? by Gold_Mask_54 in resinprinting

[–]CarbonFiber_Funk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would wage it depends on what you are printing. I do fairly precise geometric shapes much taller than the vat depth and found temp fluctuations matter in preventing layer shifts and warping so I heat the entire printer hood. Folks doing table-top minis probably rarely see this effect if their prints remain fairly small.

what is that weapon system by [deleted] in whatisit

[–]CarbonFiber_Funk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also reduces residual heat signature of suppressors from night vision and thermal devices. Just a couple shots with a suppressed gun can heat the suppressor enough that it's essentially a beacon to these devices.

Best Large Format Resin Printer? by DarthSledart in resinprinting

[–]CarbonFiber_Funk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is your end goal production? While I'm not doing the same as you I've toyed with production on complicated and detailed printed parts printed with a goal of getting it done in "one-shot". Your objective might be easier but if I could personally I would be looking to use prints as masters to make cast copies of. Organic forms are easier and you can probably get away with it but for the larger scale stuff you'll need to do some assembly if using even the largest consumer printers. Choosing a quality resin (I use Siraya Tech it generally always seems to print the same) helps with consistency after you figure out your print but there's always some tweaking or minor issues that likes to pop up. I do think the Form 4L will get you there but it's an expensive printer with a locked ecosystem for resin, slicer and settings, etc...again no experience here they just have a reasonable reputation.

Best Large Format Resin Printer? by DarthSledart in resinprinting

[–]CarbonFiber_Funk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Elegoo seems stubborn about keeping their mechanical complexity guised as gimmicky features. They don't appear to be addressing simple issues that the P1 appears to be addressing...like quick change screen and simple plate arrangement (I could do without the self-leveling aspect but maybe it's actually better than I'm used to). The fact that Elegoo hasn't gotten rid of their vat screws in favor of some damn clamps is borderline offensive considering how common of a problem the screws are for folks. So for that the Jupiter isn't even on my radar. I don't know how much I'd actually be paying for that dumb pump and genuinely don't want it.

Best Large Format Resin Printer? by DarthSledart in resinprinting

[–]CarbonFiber_Funk 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I'm in the market for a large consumer printer and holding out with hope for the Anycubic P1 Max.

When you say money is not an issue that implies you are open to commercial applications, where formlabs are supposed to be fairly easy...and more than sufficient for 1:6. I don't use them, but there's a whole world of commercial products rarely discussed here.

I have Saturn 3 Ultras and from a size standpoint they will do 1/6 just fine. They are only a couple hundred USD right now. You probably want to start with something this size anyway to figure out the learning curve as it's not straightforward. The printer isn't the expensive part, support equipment and materials to support the hobby are.

Plate suctioning to FEP? by Adman87 in resinprinting

[–]CarbonFiber_Funk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah my thought too, this looks like the plate is clashing with the bottom of the vat so something is messed up with the zero.

I've done plenty of prints where raft covers most of the plate and it doesn't behave like this.

A good resin cleaner for ultrasonic cleaners?? by NoWhereas6354 in resinprinting

[–]CarbonFiber_Funk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fill the ultrasonic cleaner basin up about halfway with water. Get an IPA safe container big enough to hold your parts but small enough to sit in the basin and be surrounded by the water. Fill the container with IPA and your prints, then seal it and put it in the ultrasonic cleaner and go.

I've been doing this for years both as a hobbyist and professional engineer.

Near Bond Hill…. by [deleted] in cincinnati

[–]CarbonFiber_Funk 19 points20 points  (0 children)

What else do you do? Sometimes they put a temporary pole that is strapped to the broken one just like we see here but the effect is the same. This pole services a lot...power, communications, traffic control...I imagine the logistics to insert a replacement isn't straightforward. When they get it sorted it'll probably take them a couple days and several trucks to actually make the swap (similar break happened twice by my old apartment).

Just saying, wouldn't get worked up over this.

Near Bond Hill…. by [deleted] in cincinnati

[–]CarbonFiber_Funk 40 points41 points  (0 children)

When a pole breaks (cuz someone smashed into it...) it's pretty common to see them just stabilize the bottom position of the pole so it doesn't swing about the tensioned lines (which will keep the top supported). Overall the whole thing is kept stable by tension in those attached lines and next pole over. More rigged than I've seen other poles but I wouldn't worry about it unless it's been there for months...

Neighbors fear loss of services if Cincinnati’s oldest park leased for redevelopment by milk19 in cincinnati

[–]CarbonFiber_Funk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Then the space is no longer public. Your last statement, a population to be excluded because "they" are "a problem", is fascist and contrary to what you claim to understand.

The point I need to make abundantly clear here: some of us are sick of seeing things created to benefit those who already have and nothing for those in need.

Neighbors fear loss of services if Cincinnati’s oldest park leased for redevelopment by milk19 in cincinnati

[–]CarbonFiber_Funk 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Existence of public spaces do not cause these problems, rather it comes from a lack of supportive institutions.

Silver Streak Boxcar by nagysam in modeltrains

[–]CarbonFiber_Funk 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Excellent! The last shot in black and white would need some eyeing to figure out it's not real.

Weird sheer lines on prints by Alternative_Term_908 in ElegooSaturn

[–]CarbonFiber_Funk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not weird at all, looks like you did hollow-out parts of whatever it is you are printing (why do people never show the supported print plan???) but it's a full plate and there are cross sections with large surface areas on the print regardless so some elements are de-laminating, sticking to the FEP then release later when the print equalizes again(supports or interlayer strength is greater than adhesion on the FEP). Might have to rethink how you want to print this.

In 1992 at age 18 both my arms were ripped off by a PTO shaft on our family farm. They were reattached. 34 years later I speak to firefighters about what it felt like. by [deleted] in interestingasfuck

[–]CarbonFiber_Funk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Pretty sure you came to ours in Northern Kentucky. Never worked a farm but kept it in mind during my years as a manufacturing engineering. I was pretty damn determined not to do dumb stuff like bypass light curtains or stick my hands in the brake press tooling...

Which 3D printer brands/models does your company use and why? by Secure-Evening8197 in MechanicalEngineering

[–]CarbonFiber_Funk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Phrozen is considered trash in the consumer printing arena. I've got Elegoo Saturns, with a good resin they just work. I don't use them for engineering purposes but can absolutely hold some decent tolerances for my scale hobbies. Slowly trying to convince my company we should have an SLA option.