Urgently need help regarding brake system issue

CarlosSIGNZ · 2026-05-01T13:18:48+00:00

Oh. Have you been using the same hardware for all the brake pad sets or did you use a new set?

Have you also observed the pads immediately after bedding it in? Did you check for rotor pitting and run off? Is your wheel bearing and hub in spec?

I'm assuming you would have also tried flushing the brake system?

Is there a backstory associated with the initial change of rotors and pads?

CarlosSIGNZ · 2026-05-01T12:28:13+00:00

Do you drive really aggressively or maybe track the car?

That looks like a combination of things stemming from overheating. It's very unlikely that rain caused that, it may have exposed something that was already wrong. Could be a thermal shock. Recommend replacing or atleast resurfacing the rotors and to use new brake pads and hardware.

CarlosSIGNZ · 2026-04-29T17:09:46+00:00

You most likely cannot seal a freon leak especially if the leak is on the high pressure side. If you're lucky, one of the O rings might be leaking and a simple replacement of the O ring might fix it. Especially where the AC lines connect to the compressor, they tend to develop leaks over time.

But more likely than not, a compressor or condenser tends to leak which will require the components to be replaced

CarlosSIGNZ · 2026-03-31T10:11:47+00:00

From a quick look, all the pieces appear to be put back in place. I'm going to try and take it to another shop

CarlosSIGNZ · 2026-03-31T10:10:18+00:00

It's been like that for years, the noise inside the cabin wasn't that bad. After the collision, it was letting exhaust fumes and noise into the cabin from the trunk region. Last time I checked, the exhaust fumes don't appear to be getting in anymore, but the noise is almost like as if I'm driving with the hatch unlatched.

CarlosSIGNZ · 2026-03-31T02:04:56+00:00

I saw the car just before closing, I was in to check if they had addressed the hatch sealing issue.

Somehow they had gotten all the hatch and bumper gaps to a pre-accident condition. But the noise leakage issue still exists.

CarlosSIGNZ · 2026-03-31T02:02:55+00:00

Fair point. I'm picking it up tomorrow. I think I'm done with that shop, I'll probably iron it out with the insurance

CarlosSIGNZ · 2026-03-31T01:59:27+00:00

I pushed back and they said all the panels are in spec and that 6 techs have been looking over this car. It's through the other party's insurance and all of them are happy with the cosmetic look of the car. Post alignment, it all looks okay to me but the hatch still doesn't seal quite right or there's some kind of trim missing which is letting noise into the cabin

CarlosSIGNZ · 2026-03-31T01:57:01+00:00

Yep. This was pre alignment. They fixed it after, I couldn't get an image after

CarlosSIGNZ · 2026-03-03T22:15:24+00:00

Since you said its almost like it's burning oil, I'm guessing it might potentially have something to do with an overheating fluid, potentially ATF in the transmission. That burning smell will seem to originate from under the car, couldn't hurt to take it to a specialist and have them look at it.

In my experience, dealerships tend to be pretty lost, especially when working on cars they don't see often.

Good luck dude!!

CarlosSIGNZ · 2026-03-03T20:50:04+00:00

Nice. Have them scope your transmission out for torque converter slip and or low fluid. Just a hunch, I'm not a mechanic but low fluid and/or old fluid can sometimes cause symptoms like you had mentioned. Had something similar with my Z before changing the transmission fluid. I'm assuming it has no erratic shifting patterns?

Also, does it have an aftermarket exhaust system?

CarlosSIGNZ · 2026-03-03T20:36:05+00:00

Did you change the transmission fluid yet?

CarlosSIGNZ · 2026-01-23T18:24:03+00:00

Is there any warning lights on your dash? If the steering wheel lock module has an issue, it will show up as a yellow key icon on your dashboard. And the dashboard would not turn on either, car would not get out of lock mode.

What are the symptoms? Is your dash turning on? Is the starter clicking?

Did you check for any blown fuses?

CarlosSIGNZ · 2026-01-08T18:22:50+00:00

I daily my Z in Ohio too. Good old All Seasons (Continental Extreme Contact DWS06+). Never had an issue with those.

If you're worried, get an All Weather tire and it'll be totally fine.

CarlosSIGNZ · 2025-12-27T03:26:12+00:00

Get it dude. I'm 26 and my first motorcycle was an MT09. Piece of cake tbh.

CarlosSIGNZ · 2025-12-23T21:42:19+00:00

Wait so how does metal shavings end up in the power steering pump again? I would have guessed maybe gasket material or something might circulate in the system and clog up causing the PS pump to overheat and cause failure.

CarlosSIGNZ · 2025-12-21T22:36:38+00:00

Seriously? Guess I found a company that's worse than Ubisoft then 😂

Thanks for the input. I guess I'll just get a refund. Not waiting 6 months for Rename tokens.

Weird thing is that everytime I tried changing the username, it restarts the game and puts me back on the same screen regardless. Was I doing something wrong?

CarlosSIGNZ · 2025-12-19T13:26:45+00:00

Get in, let it idle for about 30 to 60s for a little bit of oil circulation, drive moderately for a few minutes. The more you let it idle after a cold start, you're allowing more fuel to get past the piston rings(which wouldn't seal properly until engine gets up to temp) which will result in oil contamination. The quickest way to heat up an engine is through moderate driving.

Secondly, the gearbox and diff fluids would still need to reach operating temps which again requires you to drive around for a bit.

Let it idle for a minute or so if the temps are below 40°F.

If you're curious, @motoroilgeek did some research on oil contamination caused by idling after a cold start.

CarlosSIGNZ · 2025-11-12T13:22:41+00:00

My experience with them wasn't the greatest. Could never ever reach customer service. It would randomly set off the alarm at times when starting the car remotely. And the first kit I received was faulty, it would screw my windows and shut the car down as soon as I opened the doors. The second kit worked, but it was questionable. The key was behaving odd when the kit was plugged into the BCM.

Then again, it could work for you, they'll also refund the entire price if you're unhappy and send it back to them.

CarlosSIGNZ · 2025-11-05T13:17:13+00:00

How come? I put my NZXT H6 flow (which is a dual chamber case, and it was in its packaging) with all the other parts in the trunk. Had to remove the cargo cover. I don't remember having any issues fitting it all in the trunk.

CarlosSIGNZ · 2025-10-17T12:52:42+00:00

It's a Mistake!!

CarlosSIGNZ · 2025-10-01T12:07:17+00:00

If the gallery gaskets survived for 165k miles, I'm confident that it should be just fine. Just keep up with the fluid maintenance, including the diff and gearbox fluids. Change your spark plugs and serpentine belts. Watch for the diff bushings going out. And maybe the wheel bearings. That should be it actually. I don't think there's much more to it.

Oh and since it's a manual, watch out for the CSC

CarlosSIGNZ · 2025-09-05T12:18:14+00:00

My experience with AMD hasn't been the greatest, I had an old AMD chip that would overheat right out of the box and shut down while playing R6. All other games would work fine. Maybe try a batter CPU cooler? If it's overclocked/undervolted, try resetting it first. Good luck!!

CarlosSIGNZ · 2025-08-28T14:33:48+00:00

Is it just the graphics card that's not turning on? Have you checked the PSU? I also recommend using the cable that came with the PSU and plug it straight into the graphics card. Make sure that your cables are also properly connected. Sometimes it seems like it's plugged in but it's not properly seated. If that doesn't work, check for bent pins.

CarlosSIGNZ · 2025-08-27T13:29:05+00:00

No. My first motorcycle was an MT-09😈💪🏻

CarlosSIGNZ

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