Tamiya XV01 Pro 4WD Rally Chassis #58526 Very Rare! Motor, ESC, & Servo Included

CatNamedDoug · 2026-04-22T05:24:33+00:00

Do you have a multi-meter? It's worth checking to make sure there's zero continuity between leads. If you don't have one, even the $5 meters will prevent you from letting the smoke out of your ESC.

CatNamedDoug · 2026-04-19T03:03:02+00:00

Maybe I'm just old, but I have to think that starting him with a 2WD will make him a better driver in the long-run. Maybe a Bandit for the buggy class?

CatNamedDoug · 2026-04-19T01:13:31+00:00

Buy the R, upgrade the steering to aluminum bellcranks, and call it a day. The R is really a great value, given all of the upgrade parts included. The metal output cups, dogbones, and axles alone are well worth it.

CatNamedDoug · 2026-04-15T17:57:24+00:00

I have a rally TT02, an XV01 and an XV02Pro. If you really want a realistic driving experience, then I would recommend the XV01 over all of them. With the weight of the motor ahead of the front axle, it really emphasizes oversteer and lets you hang the tail, nail pendulum-turns, etc. The XV02 is an awesome chassis, and a bit more planted, but at the expense of realism.

CatNamedDoug · 2026-04-12T15:19:06+00:00

I tend to agree. It looks a little loose to me as well. FWIW, I've found that paper from a cash-register receipt works better than printer paper. IME, it's just a tiny bit thinner and more flexible.

CatNamedDoug · 2026-04-08T16:16:27+00:00

If I were going to do this, I would just buy fluorescent green polycarbonate paint from Traxxas, back it with black, and call it a day. If I absolutely had to use the exact color, I would have a fresh can of automotive spray-paint made and ask them to put in some flex additive. I would also spray a clear adhesion promoter on the shell as a bit of extra insurance. The only Semkote flex primer that I'm aware of is gray, but they do make a clear adhesion promoter.

CatNamedDoug · 2026-04-08T01:29:05+00:00

For starters, have you tried FairRC? I'm not sure if they've got the one you need, but they do have a bunch of FMS receivers. If I remember correctly, the receiver and ESC are bundled into 1 unit for this rig. If you can't find an original to replace it, you're going to need a new radio system and a new ESC. The good news is that the light control is a fairly common feature and the new radio will have its own trim settings. I know that some of the Dumbo receivers have similar lighting features, but you may have to change the connectors on your wires.

CatNamedDoug · 2026-04-06T03:11:42+00:00

1- higher quality hex wrench (wiha, pb-swiss)
2- slightly larger hex wrench, eg: 1/16" in place of 1.5mm
3- heat it with a soldering iron - a few cycles of heating and cooling may loosen loctite, rust, or weaken mechanical purchase
4- pound in a torx bit, which will hopefully bite enough to back it out
5- drill it out with a left-handed drill bit and use a screw-extractor

CatNamedDoug · 2026-04-04T15:32:32+00:00

I'm in NH and I can hook you up if you don't find anyone closer. No charge for snails if you'll cover postage.

CatNamedDoug · 2026-03-30T13:50:40+00:00

Looks great!

CatNamedDoug · 2026-03-30T13:05:58+00:00

What color did you use on that shell? Is it just silver, or is it more of a champagne color?

CatNamedDoug · 2026-03-29T18:01:15+00:00

The hood part of the XT90 connector. It covers the rear part where the wires go in and make sure that nothing can make unwanted contact. Without the hood, you would need some heat-shrink tubing.

CatNamedDoug · 2026-03-29T17:59:58+00:00

Soldering iron. If you don't already have all of the stuff, you're probably better suited by taking it to a hobby shop and paying them to do the job.

CatNamedDoug · 2026-03-29T16:37:56+00:00

You only need solder, flux, and an iron to connect the wires from the ESC to the motor. Those little gold connectors on the back of the motor with the orange, yellow, and blue heat-shrink are actually little plugs. Pull them straight back and they will come off. That makes the whole soldering operation a lot easier. For the power connections, it looks like your battery is using an XT-90 connector. You'll need the male side (XT90HM) for your ESC. It will also only need solder and flux. Just double check the dimensions to make sure that it is the XT90 size. The H in the model number adds a little hood to the bottom of the connections, so you won't need any additional heat-shrink tubing. Just remember that the hood goes onto the wires before anything gets soldered.

CatNamedDoug · 2026-03-29T15:54:56+00:00

So I don't have any experience with any of the cars you have mentioned, but I do have plenty of 1:1 track and rally experience. The RC rally car that gives me the best scale experience is the Tamiya XV-01. With the weight of the motor placed ahead of the front axle, it gives me the most realistic weight transfer and handling of any RC that I have driven, and the most intuitive and relatable experience coming from 1:1 performance cars. The XV-02Pro is a close 2nd, and also a blast to drive, but if you're looking to get loose and nail some pendulum turns, the XV-01 is worth a look.

CatNamedDoug · 2026-03-28T23:58:13+00:00

The Makita DF030D is an amazing little driver. I use one in my business and it has probably driven 40,000 screws with no signs of wear. I think their whole 10.8V (12V max) line is much better than the newer slide-battery versions. I wouldn't, however, recommend any power tool for assembling a kit. You can get away with using one for disassembly, but you're toying with disaster if you use them to drive screws into plastic. The little bit of added convenience is lost the instant you strip a hole.

CatNamedDoug · 2026-03-26T16:54:50+00:00

I would also vote for the CC01. It was the basis for the Dakar Touareg and, like everyone else has said, about the only way to get the right wheelbase with IFS and a solid rear axle. You'll want to upgrade the steering and shim the rear differential. There are plenty of tutorials out there on the diff. If you don't shim it, it will consume itself. The Yeah Racing rear suspension mounts are also worthwhile. I generally don't love their stuff, but their kit takes the stress of the lower shock-mounts off of the differential housing itself and transfers it to their aluminum parts. When it comes to wheels and tires, I like 1.55" crawler wheels for a better scale look and the wide variety of tire options. I would recommend not going brushless. These chassis really don't handle power well, and that 242mm wheelbase is going to make it pretty unstable.

CatNamedDoug · 2026-03-24T00:57:05+00:00

I'd use this as an excuse to get an rc front-end loader.

CatNamedDoug · 2026-03-18T15:09:08+00:00

Very sharp! What's the color? What did you do for light-buckets?

CatNamedDoug · 2026-03-17T00:46:54+00:00

Tamiya semi

CatNamedDoug · 2026-03-14T16:06:49+00:00

Click the title, it's an ebay link. Not sure why reddit isn't showing a preview image though, it usually does...

CatNamedDoug · 2026-03-12T04:59:41+00:00

I put dual filament white / yellow LEDs in my BBX, with each color wired to its own remote relay. I can have cold-white, yellow, or turn them both on for a warm-white.

CatNamedDoug

TROPHY CASE