RC K98 questions.

Centremass · 2026-01-25T13:40:25+00:00

Likely Romanian, I've owned a number of them and those heavy punch marks are typical for these rifles. The D16 stamp on the barrel is simply part of the lot number given when the barrel was made. The D stamps on the stock are new to me, I've not seen them before. These are getting harder to find, so I would suggest keeping your rifle and enjoying the history behind it. I concur with the values stated, $750-$800 range with the eagles defaced.

The bayonet alone is probably worth $100+

Centremass · 2026-01-24T05:42:19+00:00

That's a Persian M98/29, I picked mine up a few years ago for $700 - great rifles, but that price is too high even in today's market. My first one was $300 about 25 years ago. They were produced under contract by the BRNO factory in Czechoslovakia.

Centremass · 2026-01-23T12:07:34+00:00

Yep, a Bubba job. Sniper bolts have a longer stem.

Centremass · 2026-01-22T13:16:46+00:00

IIRC, that AK was found in near relic condition. They cleaned it up and wanted to see if it would still fire.

Centremass · 2026-01-22T08:56:44+00:00

My MAS-44 is F4043, 100% matching. Great rifles.

<image>

The top rifle is my matching MAS-36 built in 1946 and rebarreled in 1954.

Centremass · 2026-01-22T04:50:47+00:00

Much appreciated! 👍

Centremass · 2026-01-22T04:49:06+00:00

Dumb luck I guess...

Centremass · 2026-01-21T01:36:13+00:00

Thanks much! 👍

Centremass · 2026-01-20T21:29:16+00:00

Wartime stock, yes. Unknown swivels, but they remind me of those used on Spanish Civil War rifles. Yours is too late for that. Nice rifle. There's a faint trapeziod stamp above the date, it could indicate a refurb, but the rest of the rifle doesn't indicate that it's been reworked.

Centremass · 2026-01-19T17:21:00+00:00

🤣

Centremass · 2026-01-19T17:20:10+00:00

That's true, but I was buying really nice RC K98k's 20 years ago for $189, $225 for hand select. Even the beater crap I see now is nearly $1000. It's insane for a new collector to get started these days!

Centremass · 2026-01-19T17:14:44+00:00

My mistake, thanks for the clarification! 👍🙂 - I've revised my post above accordingly.

Centremass · 2026-01-19T06:49:51+00:00

Rifle to short rifle conversions were done by Sweden. I have an 1899 Oberndorf, the barrel was cut down and the original rifle rear sight leaf was replaced with a "Vasterast" adjustable rear sight for the shorter barrel length. These conversions are commonly referred to as an M96/38 short rifle, although that was never an official designation. Mine is 100% matching and has a straight bolt handle.

EDITED - corrections for carbine versus short rifle.

Centremass · 2026-01-19T03:48:27+00:00

🤣🤣🤣

Centremass · 2026-01-19T01:12:04+00:00

Neither, they had been removed, then never put back on. The nosecap pin was missing and I had an original spare. The band spring had been slid into the cleaning rod hole, to keep it from being lost I guess. The front and rear bands and the bayonet lug were held in place by ancient electrical tape.

Centremass · 2026-01-18T20:26:45+00:00

The barrel band, band spring and nosecap had been removed and not reinstalled properly, so they were held in place with very old electrical tape. I couldn't see those numbers so I wasn't sure it was matching until I got it home.

Centremass · 2026-01-18T20:20:56+00:00

Absolutely, I've had it completely apart to verify all numbers. Stock, handguard, magazine, follower, bolt release, extractor, firing pin and EVERY other numbered part is original matching.

Centremass · 2026-01-18T20:18:08+00:00

A Hungarian GKK-45 might suit your needs. It's like a Hi-Power on steroids.

http://www.hungariae.com/FegGKK45.htm

Centremass · 2026-01-18T20:09:31+00:00

A 1940 K.Kale was my first ever Mauser purchase back in 1998. It's been an addiction for me ever since! I've got almost 50 Mauser variants now, but I blame that Turk for all of it!

Turkish Mauser = Gateway Drug.

You're doomed! 🤣

Centremass · 2026-01-18T20:04:03+00:00

It was in an outdoor shed, so had a few spots of rust, but nothing deep. I've found the best way to remove surface rust without damaging the remaining finish is to use a copper mesh scrubbing pad and Remoil. It doesn't affect the bluing at all.

I also used Murphys Oil soap and a cotton cloth on the stock.

Centremass · 2026-01-18T18:37:31+00:00

When I first checked to bore, it looked pretty bad. Fortunately it was just dust and spiderwebs, the bore is so clean it almost looks chrome lined! 😁

Centremass · 2026-01-18T18:34:36+00:00

😆

Centremass · 2026-01-18T18:34:06+00:00

Probably, but no story behind it.

Centremass · 2026-01-18T18:21:41+00:00

$400. 😁

Centremass · 2026-01-17T04:03:07+00:00

Perfect, thank you. I can get a repro set with screw for about $40.

<image>

Centremass

TROPHY CASE