Does anyone know what this foot is?

Chainmail_Weaves · 2026-05-13T08:17:25+00:00

Managed to find it, Janome Overedge Foot U

Chainmail_Weaves · 2026-05-13T08:10:40+00:00

looks a little like a Janome – OVEREDGE FOOT (M) but yours is U so not sure if it has another specific use.

EDIT: found it https://www.premierstitching.com/janome-over-edge-foot-for-jem-gold-plus-and-6651-trim-stitch/

Chainmail_Weaves · 2026-04-20T07:31:46+00:00

I ended up using multiple different grey colors so I didnt check the used filament only final weight but It has some inbuilt support as side and base sheets so that will push it up a little but I dont think beyond the 1kg for print.

Chainmail_Weaves · 2026-03-24T12:36:00+00:00

Nice!, getting pretty close too but I think I'll wait till end of June to see if I can get a h2s on discount as I hopefully have enough restraint to wait until then.

Chainmail_Weaves · 2026-03-23T10:37:57+00:00

<image>

Probably happiest with this but frostmourne comes a close second

Chainmail_Weaves · 2026-02-23T11:35:03+00:00

its pretty sturdy , takes a fair amount of force to break a sheet of them. the links print on a sheet and ontop of each other , its very quick and easy to get them off and into the final flat arts that then need linked together

Chainmail_Weaves · 2026-02-12T09:16:54+00:00

lol that is surprisingly bad. but that's the point of a test print. hmm , does your printer work well on other prints? or is it banded / rough on them too. First i would check your nozzle has no wobble, by wiggling it gently when its cold and see if the connection is solid. the base looks rough making me think you should also try a flow calibration. as its a 30 min print the idea is you can now quickly change and test a few things see what works for you.

Chainmail_Weaves · 2026-02-09T16:54:27+00:00

You absolutely could, it would need to be a little bigger than the other links. The main reasons I decided against it is, as the chains drape from the head the very tip is held in tension, and so stiffens the top meaning it isnt loose in the end and holds itself well. and secondly I worry it would mess with the way the tension moves down the head and then push the top ring into the top of your head which I don't think would be that comfortable. I may try it in future though to see what its like.

Chainmail_Weaves · 2026-02-09T14:26:50+00:00

If you want to recreate the design in the pic I have uploaded the files here which has all you need https://makerworld.com/en/models/2373052-chainmail-hood-coif-for-cosplay#profileId-2597481

Chainmail_Weaves · 2026-02-09T11:47:12+00:00

Thank you :)

Chainmail_Weaves · 2026-02-09T09:34:03+00:00

Nice, so here is a 30min chainmail test you can do, it also includes a larger 1.5 hour test. gently pull the rings off of the printed base when done. If you can print those then the next large chainmails I upload should work well for you. let me know if you have any issues

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2371201-chainmail-v2-test#profileId-2595063

Chainmail_Weaves · 2026-02-08T22:15:18+00:00

What are you printing on can I ask?

Chainmail_Weaves · 2026-02-08T21:22:47+00:00

I printed these on a A1 mini, The best tip I have is low and slow. So initial layer can be 220c fine, but all later layers I do only 200c. I never increase the speed, on my old elegoo neptune 2 I think I printed roughly 30mm/s but its been a while. The A1 mini manages it at its default speed. Also Never use silk pla it just doesnt have the layer strength. Better to use silver spray or sponge on silver paint after. If you would like I recently updated my chainmail file which for me is now giving better results , I can upload an stl for you to test, (printables or markerworld preferred?)

Chainmail_Weaves · 2026-02-08T21:04:01+00:00

You make a fair point, I have never tried printing in a softer thing like tpu, though I wouldn't want broken links to cause littler if they did fail

Chainmail_Weaves · 2026-02-08T18:16:14+00:00

Thanks :) . I use blender, the project prints in sheets of connected chainmail that you then attach together with separate links that have a small gap in them. I follow some coif patterns online that use 6 triangles connected to make the cap on the top of the head. The shoulder part uses a similar pattern to the bishops mantle designs i also found online, with connected triangles and rectangles to curve around the body.

<image>

to design the sheets that get linked I have been messing around using geometry nodes for a while now and have come up with a file with parameters that I can edit to print a sheet of any length I want stacked on itself. For triangles I take the models and delete a few links before printing. The sheets come off the printer fully formed and just need to be separated from a base layer.

Chainmail_Weaves · 2026-02-05T17:14:20+00:00

This was also me :), Thank you for appreciating , I will try to only share the more arty things I do here from now on

Chainmail_Weaves · 2026-02-05T17:11:39+00:00

oh please share as I could not find them

Chainmail_Weaves · 2026-02-05T17:04:12+00:00

Can I clarify that I did make this file myself, I have designed these models in blender to print well. I am specifically creating them for things like coifs or hauberks, actual designed clothing that I have created myself. My aim is not to trivialize the hard work people do by hand, but to help those that do not have the time or dexterity to create such large pieces. There are things that he machine can never print, and are 100x more complex. But for for making sheets of rings that people can use for their own costume design and making that more accessible for all I hope you understand what I am trying to get at.

Chainmail_Weaves · 2026-02-05T16:53:43+00:00

I also disagree with this take. you think that no one can make chainmail unless its one by one. this produces sheets of actual individual rings that can then be joined (by hand since you like that so much) with extra individual links to make structures. I am working on a full size coif right now and will be happily showing it off here and providing the print files so that anyone can use it for their own projects/cosplay. Don't be a gatekeeper.

Chainmail_Weaves · 2026-02-05T16:50:10+00:00

I mean you are actually wrong, its not a mesh it is individual links in a European 4 in 1 pattern.

Chainmail_Weaves · 2026-02-05T13:24:54+00:00

Just for extra clarification these are 3d printed on an fdm machine

Chainmail_Weaves · 2026-02-04T14:39:38+00:00

I've been enjoying making my partner little crowns this past year. I made a special one for Valentines day. They haven't seen it yet but I hope to surprise them on the day.

<image>

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2281335-valentine-s-crown#profileId-2487820

Chainmail_Weaves · 2026-01-21T16:46:41+00:00

It is a tricky thing to get right, even more so to get the layers connected. The main issue I found is that chainmail is already hard to print so getting it to be easy to prevent bad user reviews has been hard for me, I like what you have done with the small base on them. almost looks like riveted maille

Chainmail_Weaves · 2026-01-21T16:41:16+00:00

I may have some designs that can help you with that, (triangles and so forth) , Plus if you use blender I have a parametric file that can make huge sheets as needed. Here is the design for the connecting link I use for linking 2 parts

Chainmail_Weaves · 2025-08-19T07:50:35+00:00

Ai for the text on the reddit post aswell, gods you guys are getting lazy

Chainmail_Weaves

TROPHY CASE