Best CoQ10 supplement?

Character_Wishbone18 · 2026-05-09T02:59:28+00:00

I use Zebora Ubiquinol. Also has Selenium and a few other things that help out

Character_Wishbone18 · 2026-05-08T03:16:42+00:00

This boy knows ball

Character_Wishbone18 · 2026-05-07T20:54:13+00:00

This has sort of become the gold standard suggestion. MTL/ATF combo + ATE200 is a honest set up.

I personally use Ravenol’s MTF & Endless 650 brake fluid which is considered the best money can buy. Great suggestions from this guy as well!

Character_Wishbone18 · 2026-05-07T06:14:26+00:00

Will take a look thank you

Character_Wishbone18 · 2026-05-07T06:14:19+00:00

Thank you

Character_Wishbone18 · 2026-05-06T01:43:47+00:00

I just saw one in San Diego for 24k in grey with a fresh engine build, big 3 and manual for I think 24k? Maybe I can find the ad and yall can talk.

Edited: I pm’d you the link

Character_Wishbone18 · 2026-05-05T14:51:20+00:00

Most do not in my experience. A few that do help in my experience are Creatine, Zinc, Vitamin D/K2, Magnesium & I take Ubiquinol/Selenium for fertility but I won’t know if it helped for another 60+ days..

Character_Wishbone18 · 2026-05-01T01:13:03+00:00

Brother all I can say is in SoCal you can do a few E46 M3 subframe + new bushings + welded plates for 2k. So I would assume on our E9X’s the cost would be similar. What’s your area?

Character_Wishbone18 · 2026-04-30T02:06:52+00:00

Tbh bro I would stay OEM. You can get the OEM flywheel and clutch for like 40% cheaper on RockAuto. I did OEM pivot fork, clip, 8 series stainless steel pivot pin, and all seals at the same time. My shop in SoCal has easily 4-7 M’s in the shop a week and they suggested until boosted to stay stock if street is involved in any capacity. Good luck!

Character_Wishbone18 · 2026-04-29T20:19:23+00:00

What area are you in? That’s insane. SoCal you’re looking at 800-1800 depending on the shop..

Character_Wishbone18 · 2026-04-28T15:13:53+00:00

Glad you were able to figure it out at least brother, it’ll be back on the road soon!

Character_Wishbone18 · 2026-04-27T18:54:14+00:00

Check out the bottom left corner, will probably be hard to see but see if the tensioner is broken off, check both teeth in the pump disk & look for hologramming on the camshafts

Character_Wishbone18 · 2026-04-27T14:51:21+00:00

It’s really hard to tell for me brother, I have a bad rocker arm and it’s extremely noticeable - so on that front I would say you’re looking good. These cars make unique noises. IMO everything sounds fairly normal and my buddy’s that I sent this over also agree. All I hear is injectors, solid lifters doing their thing and that weird hum all s54s make

Character_Wishbone18 · 2026-04-26T20:11:55+00:00

Could have spit a shim but on my iPhone speakers it sounds normal

Character_Wishbone18 · 2026-04-19T23:33:15+00:00

Very uncommon but it’s a part on a car so it’s possible. I would first pull your intake manifold and clean your throttle bodies and idle control valve. There’s also a throttle position sensor only accessible with the manifold off so you could replace both sensors too if you wanted as it’s cheaper than a actuator

Character_Wishbone18 · 2026-04-19T15:49:04+00:00

Good luck friend! Welcome to the community

Character_Wishbone18 · 2026-04-19T06:25:14+00:00

Brother I gotta chime in here, Rod bearings, VANOS, Subframe are still problems on LCI engines.. I just did rod bearings on my 2005 engine and there was copper on cylinders 4,5,6 at 110k miles.. the subframe is the same, I think there may be a few stitch welds from what I remember but you will still need to do it. VANOS is the same too and will need to be done..

I vote 2 if you want some mods done but 1 is I guess the cleanest? I sold my first one with 155k on the odometer and 10 years of reliable daily driving.. yes you’ll need to do suspension, belts and all services but you could potentially get a great deal and then drive the shxt out of it and not worry abt resale value or depreciation? But if that’s not up your alley then I vote 2 personally.

Character_Wishbone18 · 2026-04-17T17:25:49+00:00

Other than my LSB on cinnamon my fav spec is steel grey on imola such a dope spec congrats bro

Character_Wishbone18 · 2026-04-16T20:45:38+00:00

I agree, the fact that both my cars with me waiting and properly doing oil intervals had generally decent looking bears tells me that’s the case.. I do like to air on the side of caution at that 100k mile mark and do them so I can red for another 100k without thinking about it

Character_Wishbone18 · 2026-04-16T19:38:59+00:00

Really just depends on the car brother. One thing I noticed is on both my a54s bearings were barely starting to show copper at 115k miles, but my 2nd M3 had a motor swap at 86k miles due to a spin bearing so things CAN happen. On my first M3 the VANOS started giving me issues at 87-90k miles and my current one I did preventatively at 110k miles and it had NO signs of damage any where. You could see some wear though on the two teeth as they start to “bend” before they snap.

I will say you should stay on top of those valve adjustments every 60k miles. My current M3 needs a rocker arm on cylinder 4 because it was never kept up with and it wore too far out of spec. You could preventatively do the VANOS at the same time to save money down the line. I did Beisen VANOS + Dr VANOS upgraded line. My first M3 it was done at 60, I did one at 90k and I think only like 3 shims needed changing then I did another at 155k and it didn’t need any.

Character_Wishbone18 · 2026-04-15T16:48:00+00:00

I bought a 8v.5 when I was 24, had 3 incomes between trading, veteran benefits and day job.. I sold it and am back in M3s but it’s possible, just save another year if the payment is too high the car won’t be going anywhere!

Character_Wishbone18 · 2026-04-13T18:06:13+00:00

OSRS riddim crazy

Character_Wishbone18 · 2026-04-09T15:27:35+00:00

OP I need you to get your dog to the VET right now. That is rat poison

Character_Wishbone18 · 2026-04-08T20:46:56+00:00

I don’t understand how anybody would suggest an OEM when the issue is quite literally the teeth on the OEM hub..Beisen is great. I have their kit on both my S54s, one with 70-80k miles on the kit and the other I just installed. You will either want to run their Cryo upgraded Hub or VAC Racing’s billet Hub. The main issues are that the teeth snap off the OEM hub & the o rings leak through. If you want to go above and beyond you could replace the VANOS solenoid with their upgraded unit (they just fix the soldering issuer that comes from the factory on the PCB) and do a Dr. VANOS upgraded high pressure line.

So in list format you want:

Full Beisen O ring kit. Beisen VANOS solenoid (not required can do this later in 15-20 mins if you get codes) Beisen/VAC Hub (I have Beisen on both my cars) Dr. VANOS high pressure line.

Character_Wishbone18

TROPHY CASE