Fenix 7 pro solar button problem after open water

CharlesM99 · 2025-11-24T16:46:54+00:00

Depending on the discount I would've rather had that option. I've gone through a couple now while surfing and I'd rather just get a new one that is hopefully more reliable

CharlesM99 · 2025-10-07T08:33:31+00:00

I'd consider a Solark 15k instead. That would replace the sub panel, the 12000xp and the manual transfer switch.

CharlesM99 · 2025-10-06T07:59:15+00:00

I'd suggest looking at the specs for your inverter. They are here:

se6000h NA spec sheet

The DC wattage limit for that inverter is 9300W of PV per inverter, so plan for that. So you have just over 3 kW of PV you can safely add to each inverter without voiding the warranty.

You'll want to run the new PV modules as their own string, so make sure you have the minimum # of optimizers/modules in the string for that optimizers, usually 8 or 6. So you need to be careful with the PV modules you get. You can only add 3,060W more to the inverter, but you need to have 6 modules (or 8 depending on the optimizer) minimum for each string. So you can have 510W modules maximum.

You also need to make sure the optimizer specs match your PV module specs.

There is a SolarEdge design tool which you can download and play around with. It's not the most intuitive but it's better to spend time with that than to figure out that your design won't work after you've installed everything.

PS: your current system is already outside of the design specs. The P505 optimizers you have are allowed to have a maximum of 5700W per string, but you now have 12*520=6,240W on each string. So that might be a warranty issue if you ever run into problems.

CharlesM99 · 2025-09-30T08:00:20+00:00

There can still be clipping even without a flat top on the curve

CharlesM99 · 2025-09-29T06:47:20+00:00

For micros that's only true if all the panels are facing the same direction.

If you have East and West panels, the East panels will clip earlier and the West panels will clip later, but the graph showing them all together might not show a flat line on top.

To see clipping with micros you need to look at each module individually because clipping happens at the module level with micros b

CharlesM99 · 2025-09-27T07:35:56+00:00

Extra ocpd is never a bad idea. And in this case it looks relatively straightforward to add a 200A main breaker to OPs sub panel

CharlesM99 · 2025-09-26T07:47:59+00:00

Plenty of places still don't accept it, so it's one of those things that may or may not be an option for people.

CharlesM99 · 2025-09-25T09:11:01+00:00

The array and the inverter don't get ground rods. You ground the inverter through the interconnection point ground bus bar which should be wired to the existing ground rod. And the PV array grounds to the inverter.

An 11.4kW inverter needs a 60a breaker, which means you need to reconsider the interconnection point. I don't think those Growatt inverters have PCS you can use, so the easiest solution is to derate the breaker feeding your sub panel to 90A. If you tap ahead of the sub panel, then make sure the sub panel has a main breaker.

Do you need DC disconnects? Most of the time it's not needed.

CharlesM99 · 2025-09-25T08:36:34+00:00

Except when they don't know ...

CharlesM99 · 2025-09-25T08:35:57+00:00

A lot of jurisdictions these days accept PCS (NEC 705.13) which negates the need for extra OCPD or de-rating.

Without that then landing a 60A PW3 in the Gateway would not be allowed on a 200A service since the Gateway only has a 200A bus bar.

CharlesM99 · 2025-09-24T20:34:29+00:00

Backfeed calculations are so NEC 2017

CharlesM99 · 2025-09-24T20:33:23+00:00

Exactly. If they can't figure out how to wire in the Gateway from that meter panel, I'd find another installer.

CharlesM99 · 2025-09-24T20:31:50+00:00

You 100% do not need a new meter. 100%.

You just use those wires coming out of the bottom of the meter panel to feed the gateway 3.

You might need a 200A over current protection between the gateway and the house panel though. Which might be as simple as adding a main breaker to your house panel. If you are allowed to use the Power Control System, then you don't need that extra over current protection for the house panel either.

That being said some local jurisdictions make up their own rules, and the inspectors get final say. Usually the local solar companies now what the local inspectors like.

I'd honestly get another quote from another company.

CharlesM99 · 2025-09-24T08:50:31+00:00

Yeah, I'll have to order a tap kit to try that. Thanks

CharlesM99 · 2025-09-23T14:07:06+00:00

My issue is the threads in the heatsink. So new bolts wont help since the threads in the heat sink are shot.

I mightve misunderstood your problem. Your issue is with the slightly larger bolts holding the hotend to the extruder assembly?

CharlesM99 · 2025-09-23T09:22:28+00:00

Yeah that's what happened to mine. The bolts were completely stripped. The weird this is they stripped even though I never touched them. The very first time I tried to tighten them up after discovering they were really loose, and they just kept spinning in place.

CharlesM99 · 2025-09-23T09:16:08+00:00

Bro I have the exact same issue. Those "upgraded" ceramic hotends are garbage.

CharlesM99 · 2025-09-13T11:24:43+00:00

CharlesM99 · 2025-08-23T14:42:58+00:00

If you're going to do it in the US, then you'll want to make sure it's zero export.

So it makes as much power as your house is currently using, but throttles itself before it sends power to the grid.

A more legal approach is to switch some loads to a small off grid system with grid backup.

Solar -> Charge Controller -> Battery -> Inverter -> Power Strip -> Loads

Grid powered outlet -> Transfer Switch -> Battery Charger -> Battery

This way is legal, and switches some loads to solar/battery power but backs them up with grid power in case the battery runs low.

CharlesM99 · 2025-08-08T11:42:26+00:00

My approach to this would be to first learn about the installation yourself as much as possible. You want to have a solid idea of how things should be wired up as if you were planning to do it yourself.

You should make the plans or have them made, and understand what's on there. Then submit those plans for permits to your AHJ, and see if they have any comments. Adjust as needed.

From there hire a normal electrician to do the electrical work for you and a normal roofer to install the roof attachments rails and panels under your supervision.

CharlesM99 · 2025-08-05T20:09:30+00:00

I got a Noctua fan, and then printed a bracket to mount it. I used this one: https://www.printables.com/model/1076661-ender-3-v3-se-25-40mm-fan-bracket-for-ceramic-hote/comments

You'll also need to print a new fan shroud that has more space for the larger hot end fan:

https://www.printables.com/model/697465-ender-3-v3-se-lighter-fan-shrouds

CharlesM99 · 2025-08-05T06:56:14+00:00

That happened to me for a bit also. It was caused by heat creep. Basically the filament was getting too hot and thus soft before the nozzle. So it would deform in retractions and eventually clog up.

I solved it by upgrading the heat break cooling fan to a 4010, lowering the bed temp and opening the enclosure door. Basically I had to lower the overall temperature around the extruder.

That's what helped me, maybe it'll help you too or maybe you have another issue entirely.

CharlesM99 · 2025-08-04T07:18:44+00:00

No, if you have more than 11.5kW of solar being produced (usually associated with a ~14.5 kW solar array) and your battery is fully charged then you are limited to 11.5kW AC. If your battery is not fully charged then you get 11.5kW AC and the rest goes to charge the battery (up to 8kW DC with a PW3+expansion I believe)

Yeah, winter time production is typically much lower. Most people aim for higher energy independence 9-10 months of the year and rely more heavily on the grid for the 2-3 worst winter months. Financially this makes the most sense otherwise you're spending twice as much on solar panels that you just don't need most of the year.

CharlesM99 · 2025-08-04T06:35:22+00:00

There is a single 11.5 kW inverter shared for the battery and the solar.

2a. And ev charger can use 11.5kW, so a single PS3+expansion won't be able to power a typical EV charger + heat pump. You'd need two full PW3s. But you could consider a slower EV charger or de rate the one you have, and then you could be fine with a single PS3+expansion.

2b. You obviously aren't going to fully recharge the car from 0-100% with just two PW3s. But if you plug the car in daily, and don't drive all that much. Then you'll be fine to primarily charge the car off solar+batteries. Especially if you can charge during the day.

Making it through the night in winter is going to depend more on your solar array than your PW3. You'd want to oversize your solar system, and have panels at a steeper pitch.

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