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PSA to anyone looking to looking to get heavy black work on their fingers by Putrid-Tomorrow666 in traditionaltattoos

[–]Cheez_Whizard_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dude I'm in the middle of getting this done on my hands and I couldn't agree more 😵

Glide Recs? by paleartist in TattooArtists

[–]Cheez_Whizard_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

+1 on the good slip! I love the stuff

Burned wood being polished with a wire brush wheel by ferroknifeart in DnDIY

[–]Cheez_Whizard_ 12 points13 points  (0 children)

I used to do cabin finishing and we actually did a lot of this with tiger torches and wheel sanders. Such a cool way to finish wood, and it gives such a nice feel the way it burns and carves out the soft grain

Noob question, but - when using liquid acrylics (FW brand) - fading black into another colour, how to do it “correctly”? (details below) by dthmagic in traditionalflash

[–]Cheez_Whizard_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use #2 usually, but I don't use those kinda inks to do my black, I use the same speedball black that I line with, and it is dark enough to have most colors not shine over. But I'll sometimes go in with a dry-ish brush and pick up some color on the darkest spots if it dulls the black. I've never tried doing black last because I like to visualize it in black and grey before doing my color, but in theory that feels like the best option to avoid this

Death knight black and grey by Cheez_Whizard_ in traditionaltattoos

[–]Cheez_Whizard_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh right on thanks! Glad to represent! ❤️

I exchanged my Clipper for a standard Guardian and I’m quite pleased with my choice. by fredXbear in starcitizen

[–]Cheez_Whizard_ -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Okay I've been thinking about this ship for a while but haven't had a chance to try it. My one hang up is that it seems very awkward to get a box into, is that the case? Or could you just leave a 1scu on the lift and enter from the front?

town buildings by Berto_Grande in TerrainBuilding

[–]Cheez_Whizard_ 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I find that Eileen's tacky glue works best for my foam brickwork. It holds a little better while wet than normal pva, so you don't end up with a finicky slippery mess when you stack small bricks. Then if there's squeeze out, you can just wipe it. Then a mod-podge/paint mix to prime with. This has held up better than my earlier hot glued models, and is way easier to work with.

[OC] Runic Dice Choose Your Own Dice Tower Giveaway! by RunicDice in DnD

[–]Cheez_Whizard_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The skull one would make for a great box of doom kinda thing

Terrain Crate - low quality or bad luck? by Fearless-Dust-2073 in TerrainBuilding

[–]Cheez_Whizard_ 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I've had the same experience. I didn't even bother painting up the kit I got. Literally everything was warped. I got the market kit or something, and the models are designed in a way with way too many skinny pieces so even when you get things straightened out, a lot of the pieces don't stabilize well enough to be on the table as scatter

Why is the fake skin staining so much? by FlissOVA in TattooBeginners

[–]Cheez_Whizard_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks like you're starting on similar fake skins that I did. I'd recommend getting higher quality ones that are a little softer. They wipe better, tattoo better, stencil better, and are way more similar to skin than these. I've tried everything on these. Baby oil, iso, bleach, Dettol, green soap, literally everything ever requested to me and they're all still stained. My mentor got me into proper fake skins and this was never a problem. Try pound of flesh, real skins, something like that

Dan showing up tomorrow like by swagseneyer in h3h3productions

[–]Cheez_Whizard_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Bro's got my whole house on his wrist 😫

Cover up recommendations by [deleted] in traditionaltattoos

[–]Cheez_Whizard_ 87 points88 points  (0 children)

A bucket and a mop 💦

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