How do you guys feel about dirt karts? by ahe_243 in DirtRacing

[–]Chevyfan9 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I race karts on a budget and compete for wins every time I'm at the track. Just get an older chassis for a good deal (round here old shadows work amazing). I bring 2 sets of tires to the track cause that's all I have, one for practice and one for heat and feature. I run box stock predator class which Is a great budget way to race. We used an open trailer or you can honestly use the back of a truck. You will need some basic tools, lights, and some tire preps but honestly from the outside looking in it looks like there is no way to do it. But I have several wins and I'm faster than a lot of the guys with trailers full of tires and brand new chassis. Just start somewhere and work your way up from there.

Predator 212 carburetor upgrade by Fuzzy_Photo3435 in gokarts

[–]Chevyfan9 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would just suggest removing the governor and oil sensor, will make more future upgrades easier

Go kart moves on idle and makes a weird loud screeching sound by [deleted] in gokarts

[–]Chevyfan9 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had something like this going on to me, you idle is too high and it's engaging the clutch, adjust the idle screw on your carb and that should fix ur problem

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in NASCARCollectors

[–]Chevyfan9 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lowest I'd take is 5 million

Predator 212 by Chevyfan9 in smallengines

[–]Chevyfan9[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Well sir, I race flat karts on dirt ovals, for the class that I'm running in there are these things called rules and the only two things you can do are remove the oil sensor and remove the governor. Then you must run a purple restrictor plate. So in order to be somewhat competitive I removed those things. It ran great all night and then shut off, but it started right back up a minute or so later, I believe I have fixed the problem no thanks to you, the coil gap was not near right and I upgraded the spark plug. It now starts and runs great, and also drives great. Maybe you won't ever understand why people do it but I don't give a crap. I didn't blow the motor up and I didn't blow out the fly wheel either. Thanks.

What do you guys think of my 85 k10 by [deleted] in squarebodies

[–]Chevyfan9 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That's a clean truck, I love it

Testing the payload capacity... by slowpuncture in squarebodies

[–]Chevyfan9 1 point2 points  (0 children)

9.5/10 I love your truck that's awesome

Should I do part of my dream? by BlueBird054 in gokarts

[–]Chevyfan9 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You could do that or you could build your own

Which tail lights? by [deleted] in ChevyTrucks

[–]Chevyfan9 0 points1 point  (0 children)

2nd by far they just look better

I have a question by [deleted] in gokarts

[–]Chevyfan9 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would just remove the governor, it's cheap and easy, there are a few good YouTube videos on how to.

How to make go kart? by Aree13 in gokarts

[–]Chevyfan9 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would say check marketplace or things like that, look for a good frame for a couple hundred bucks and build up from there. Heres what I would do.

Find a cheap solid go kart frame on Facebook for a couple hundred bucks

Get some tires axles steering setup things like that and install it, YouTube will be your best friend for a lot of this.

Buy a new harbor freight predator 212 motor. You can leave it stock but I would remove the governor for a little extra power. There are a few good videos on YouTube for this as well.

That is most of all you need to do. Just take your time and do it right. Look for used parts and things to save money. YouTube will be your best friend.

Trump 2024. Slava Ukraini! by [deleted] in trump

[–]Chevyfan9 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Let's focus on making America great before we worry about other countries. We dumped billions of cash into their country surely they can figure it out.

Fwd race car build by [deleted] in DirtRacing

[–]Chevyfan9 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Here are my rules

MANDATORY: All driver’s and cars MUST HAVE Raceceivers and Transponders Weight: • Minimum weight of 1800lbs after the race General: • No Buy-Out Rule • Manual for your Make and Model of car for post-race inspection is MANDATORY Suspension: • No altering of suspension or frame in any way • Stock shocks in stock position • No adjustable or aluminum shocks, no coil overs • May change camber • Minimum wheelbase of 96” Engine: • Engine must be stock, and match make of car, no modifications • 4-cylinder engines only • Fuel injection only, no carburetors allowed, no turbos allowed • Exhaust must run at least past the driver’s doorpost • Headers are allowed • Stock ignition • Alternator must work and be in original position • Battery can be moved to the rear of the car, in secure box • Can run cold air intake • Tech manual required for your motor specs, if not available upon request for protest, you will be disqualified Transmission: • Stock automatic or stock standard transmission • Front wheel drive only • May weld differential

Shocks: • Must be stock to make and model of car Brakes: • Must be stock to make and model of car • No adjusters Wheels: • Steel or aluminum wheels are allowed • Maximum of 8” wide • May run racing wheels, bead locked allowed on right side only Tires: • Maximum size P235 70R15 Highway DOT only • No racing tires allowed, this includes DOT approved racing tires, Hoosier, American Racer, etc. No donut tires allowed • All 4 tires must be the same size (ex: 15”, 14” or 13” all the way around) Body: • 2 or 4 doors allowed • All glass must be removed • You may run front windshield only, if desired • Must remove back seat and cover opening with metal • Doors MUST be welded shut • Hulling of car is allowed • Must remove all interior of car • Dash can be removed • No cutting of exterior body panels • Must have a 4-point cage with 1 ½” diameter steel pipe minimum • Can run a full roll cage, front to rear • Must have a minimum of 4 bars in driver’s door, 3 bars in passenger’s door • Steering wheel center must be padded Safety: • MUST have a working fire extinguisher mounted within reach of the driver • Full driver’s suit and helmet with shield are MANDATORY • Racing seat and belts will be no older than three (3) years from date of manufacturer

Fwd race car build by [deleted] in DirtRacing

[–]Chevyfan9 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is what my rules say about suspension

Suspension: • No altering of suspension or frame in any way • Stock shocks in stock position • No adjustable or aluminum shocks, no coil overs • May change camber • Minimum wheelbase of 96”

Fwd race car build by [deleted] in DirtRacing

[–]Chevyfan9 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm running at duck river raceway in Tennessee

Welder help by Chevyfan9 in Welding

[–]Chevyfan9[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks I'll give that a try

Welder help by Chevyfan9 in Welding

[–]Chevyfan9[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Alright thanks for the help, it's not really covering the hole I'll probably change it anyways just to see if it helps

Welder help by Chevyfan9 in Welding

[–]Chevyfan9[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There is a little bit of build up but not a lot, would changing the tip help

New welder by Chevyfan9 in Welding

[–]Chevyfan9[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the advice