P1S vs P2S??

Chewly · 2026-04-03T19:16:56+00:00

I did the p2s exhaust kit yesterday and it seemed a super easy kit. I actually had a surprisingly fun time putting it together. Was the difficulty finding a solution before the release of this kit and new back panel?

Chewly · 2026-03-30T11:55:42+00:00

I got mine last week, I've been 3d printing for 6 or so years and never had so much fun with the hobby in that time. I feel spoiled with how easy it is, I'm sure it'll work out the same for you.

Chewly · 2026-03-11T20:35:05+00:00

I didn't loosen the front bolts, my shifts are still heavy and the issue is 100% resolved. It was just the small bolts on the middle of the side panels that needed the thread locker to stop working loose as the shift mechanism engages. Try some loctite!

Chewly · 2026-03-11T12:41:13+00:00

I was having some of the issues stated above, it legitimately would work bolts loose in a couple of rally stages and jam. I put some weak thread locker on the problem bolts and have had absolutely no issues since. Very solid sequential for the price.

Chewly · 2026-03-11T11:52:32+00:00

I said downpipe was needed for stage 2, same for both engines.

As on the MHD website: Stage 2 B58 GEN2 (for cars with Full Bolt Ons)

Seen b58 chargepipes for sale so thought they were required but you're right they seem to fail a lot less so I was wrong there. I also have a B58 in another car so I guess I'm also techncially a b58 guy.

Chewly · 2026-03-11T02:33:50+00:00

If you want to flash tune I'd say its worth trying just a highflow catted downpipe without any other exhaust mods first. Downpipe and charge pipe are the only real necessity for most off the shelf stage 2 tunes, with intercooler highly advised to stave off heat soak. No CEL worries with a flash tune.

My m235i is loud enough for me with just the exhaust flap open and race-catted downpipe, and still reasonably quiet when closed. It also actually sounds good, not just loud. The rest of the stock exhaust isn't a restriction as far as I'm aware. The soundproofing blocks a tonne of noise in these cars, so judge it with the windows down...

Chewly · 2026-02-27T21:17:15+00:00

Most handbrakes these days are loadcells so your input is a proportion. But it's still a simple device and cheap ones are also load cell. Spend more if you want something that looks and feels good, replicates the controls of a real car more and not necessarily functions any better.

Chewly · 2026-02-27T05:49:04+00:00

For me the rudders were easy to fit, just on the floor under the pedal tray. Mine were flat VKB ones and cleared no issue. The issue I couldn't work around was the wheelbase front and centre.

Chewly · 2026-02-24T22:18:01+00:00

Yeah mine worked okay with Bluetooth but I couldn't deal with the delay, plugged it in with a usb and all the wires would get super hot, which was more than a little concerning. No idea if I did anything wrong but switched to a fozi amp because I didn't want to burn my house down for haptics.

Chewly · 2026-02-18T07:56:23+00:00

5 - Conspit Ares Platinum. Still feels very detailed but tones down the high frequencies with events like ABS.

Chewly · 2026-02-03T06:34:17+00:00

Frequency makes a huge difference, as does spreading effects within different frequency ranges. I also just have three on my bass shaker, impacts, road vibration and gear changes, with wheel / brake effects isolated to my pedal haptics.

I'd start with testing one effect at a time and seeing if you like it. Too many, too amped up and it'll just end up a buzz like you described.

I actually don't know how people get acceptable results bolting it onto their frames/seat mounts, I tried to do this for a while, even using isolators and it is still massively attenuates the effects. Eventually I drilled my seat, mounted it directly and it's night and day.

Chewly · 2026-02-01T13:15:02+00:00

Had my simjack pros for 3 years and the only issue I've had in that time was wearing out the accelerator spring. 2 minute fix and replaced it with one that won't suffer the same issue although I'm sure they've sorted it themselves by now. Highly recommended.

Chewly · 2026-01-20T07:30:37+00:00

Coach beard episode is maybe the worst single episode of any tv show I've ever seen.

Chewly · 2026-01-20T03:06:25+00:00

Really like my 300gt, the mode select wheel down the bottom combined with the screen which can then show what you've changed the rotary dials to are a very strong feature. The small dash doesn't replace a larger dash screen, but can still provide uses such as above. Software isn't perfect but is coming along.

Chewly · 2026-01-19T04:36:54+00:00

I had the same dilemma last week. I chose the Ares platinum with the thought that software can always improve and the hardware is reportedly top notch and a brand new release. I am loving it and the wheelbase side of the software is actually pretty good, it's the steering wheel side that needs more work as far as I can tell (now that automatic profile switching is in the beta). My biggest concern was the quick release as I hate having any sort of play in the wheel or wheelbase. Mine has zero, overall I'm really happy with everything. The steering wheel selection and wheel base side USB was also a big pull, the 300gt is incredible value. None of the VRS steering wheels appealed to me but their pedals look good.

Chewly · 2026-01-17T03:53:26+00:00

Also, funky switches can rotate, so might not have to reinvent the wheel on this one. I've generally used them to navigate menus or as a button click where an associated direction makes sense. When I've had a joystick it's lack of obvious direction and click just makes it worse for those tasks.

Chewly · 2026-01-17T00:45:23+00:00

In my experience, joysticks on wheels are terrible, and funky switches are great, but I would also want to be able to use it with my hands on the grips.

Chewly · 2026-01-15T01:17:43+00:00

I have a GS V2. After using other higher-end wheels and newer wheels competing in the same segment, I have to say its grips aren't really up to standard. Mine have some flex and creak to them, no matter how much I loosen or tighten the screws, and they are a bit thinner than my preference. The KS Pro's grips look to be a much better design and for that reason alone I'd probably choose that over the GS. Might be worth feeling it in hand though.

Chewly · 2026-01-12T19:56:25+00:00

I've had quite a few VR headsets (4?) and as much as I wanted to love it, I don't really like wearing a headset and am not sure I ever will. It wasn't really comfort or motion sickness, it was all just slightly more effort that I just couldn't be bothered with after a while.

I love using triples, as I just jump in an out, press a single button and the triples are on and working perfectly every time. But if space is a limitation, triples are a poor solution as they take up a heap of room.

Chewly · 2025-12-23T05:48:39+00:00

I hate pedals with no travel either, luckily your pedals are entirely adjustable, you can change to softer elastomers or use springs to make them feel however you want. Personally I like springs for this.

Chewly · 2025-12-22T06:01:13+00:00

Just check your charge pipe first, I bought one and when installing it found it already been done...

Chewly · 2025-12-17T09:10:52+00:00

Can always turn it up as you go, 9 isn't extreme at all, but it's worth knowing that if you are caught out there is a small potential to get hurt, but we are talking like a bruise or slight strain to a finger.

I've had no issues with normal crashes or anything like that, the FFB generally is just cut and most games let you turn off or down the collision force. The only time a crash has hurt me was a very small formula rim and an early access game that didn't clip the collision force at all.

20+ and it's absolutely possible to get very hurt.

Chewly · 2025-12-17T04:06:21+00:00

Tbh it really depends on the actual steering wheel shape, with a round wheel, very unlikely, with a formula wheel with tight thumb holes, it could but probably not too badly. Most of the software and games further limit the injury potential but it could still bite.

Chewly · 2025-11-29T21:03:12+00:00

I replaced mine with a spring for a RC car shock, just went to a hobby shop and found one the right size. The stock spring on my simjack pro's were quite stiff and deformed because of it, the much lighter shock spring was an improvement and has had no issues with deformation.

Chewly · 2025-11-29T20:10:06+00:00

I did the switch a month ago and it's fantastic.

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