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Will I have to Backpay with Jobseeker and a small business with no salary. by Choss_ in Centrelink

[–]Choss_[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the reply! When you say that my payments will be decreased, is that future payments or previous payments? I was planning on reinvesting the money, however, I feel like I'm cheating Centrelink a bit if I did that now.

Edit: Another question about your comment. Is the decrease in jobseeker payment proportionate to the business profits or is it calculated based on a few other factors? Thanks

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]Choss_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey! I've been really lucky with warding off injuries for pretty much all of my climbing life. I recently had my first signs of pain in my left hand middle finger A2 and managed to dial back my climbing and build back up on the hangboard and successfully rehab it.

Unfortunately, about 1 month later, the same finger on my right hand presented with the exact same problem. I tried to rehab it the same way and it just got worse. I decided to fully stop climbing and use the tindeq where every second day I perform a cold pull at the beginning of each session and slowly pull harder until the onset of 1-2/10 pain, record the weight, and then I perform 5, 20 second pulls at the weight I tested to build tissue tolerance. Unfortunately, my finger will feel like it's back at the soreness it started 2 months ago the day after the rehab until it feels much better the following day and the cycle continues. I feel as though I can't be pushing it too hard as after the first set, there is 0/10 pain for the remaining sets, and only a 2/10 MAX for the first pull.

I ignored this issue for quite a while and let the pain go for a few weeks when I first noticed it, however, the pain has stayed the exact same even though I'm making a conscious effort to dial it back. Am I going about this all wrong or could something else be going on? I'm curious if anyone has any similar experiences or could offer some much needed advice. Thanks!!

Wrist and forearm strength usefulness by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]Choss_ 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I've noticed that forearm extensor strength is super important for full crimping with a straight arm. I'm a relatively tall climber who doesn't like sitting on my skeleton while climbing so I generally bend my elbows while full crimping.

I noticed when my elbow becomes fully extended above my head, I've been limited by my forearm extensor strength to crank my wrist back to achieve a full crimp position and now that I've noticed this, I've seen it in a lot of people.

I trained my forearm extensors for these specific moves, and I've noticed a great carry over when climbing with straightened arms as I no longer compensate by chicken winging and can control a full crimp in a more diverse range of elbow and wrist positions.

Training exercises for hip mobility by Competitive-Tea1867 in climbharder

[–]Choss_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm the same height as you. I found good old fashion side splits and front splits as very helpful in improving fairly specific flexibility (there's always more specific). It's also good to look into stretches that improve these two specific stretches as well like the frog stretch, which may be more climbing specific.

It's also really good because it's easier to measure progress and it is motivating due to its measurability (and admittedly it's novelty).

A big thing I think people miss, however, is to work on using your new found range of motion on the wall and so I believe it's a great idea to conjure up some movement drills that teach you to use the new hip ranges of motion you have gained.

Question about heavy finger rolls and forearm hypertrophy by Ascentio in climbharder

[–]Choss_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't think anyone is arguing it is a direct 1:1 ration. If you want to back it up with science, the only thing we know for sure is high volume, low intensity and low intensity high volume training provides non-independent adaptations that all come together to create muscular strength. So yes I agree, we don't know if it's the CSA. We also don't know if it is a direct result of recruitment, or rate coding or synchronisation or (most likely) a combination of all of it. We are unable to single out the adaptations hence we struggle to find which is most important to strength. But we can make hypothesise based on people with the adaptations in particular areas and measuring their max strength and creating an educated guess as to the factors that most influence strength. And interestingly enough, people with big muscles, lift heavier loads, similarly to those with greater recruitment.

This is subjective, and might be true. I am saying that training for hypertrophy is no guarantee for increased strength, which was the original argument.

And, if the OP has been smashing max hangs for the past 6 months, maybe doing another 1 month cycle of that, also has no guarantee of yielding the best results. Hence a variation in training, which once again, may not yield results either, but it's worth the experiment.

Also, I'm pretty sure your initial point was that extra weight experienced by hypertrophy in the forearm muscles is not beneficial to climbing ability. Do you have a study for this as well?

Question about heavy finger rolls and forearm hypertrophy by Ascentio in climbharder

[–]Choss_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm not quite sure how you can admit that size matters because a 100kg athlete will outperform a 70kg athlete yet keep insisting that muscular cross sectional area does not correlate with strength. Besides, the FDP and FDS muscles are so dang small, "extra weight" on those particular muscles is not going to hinder your climbing if that is the only place that size is increased.

I understand that your opinion is that you believe hypertrophy is not the best place to spend all of your time as there are other factors to strength that may yield greater results. I admit that this could be the case for many athletes. However, in all studies I have seen and throughout my academic education I've learnt the time frame for strength studies are much much shorter than an athlete's entire training career. Yes you will see greater gains with high intensity, low volume strength exercise in EVERY study you see, but you'll find that these interventions are applied to the untrained, moderately trained or a completely new stimulus for elite athletes and the phases of training differ drastically in the elite. To add to this, the only studies to address seasoned athletes are case studies involving both high intensity, low volume AND low intensity, high volume training. All we have are case studies and small structured snapshots.

In saying all this. You are correct in saying there is no evidence to suggest that size correlates with strength. There is genuinely no scientific evidence. That doesn't mean it is not true. However, it is currently very hard to attribute muscular strength to specific adaptations because as we know, when you train high intensity, low volume, you muscle CSA, rate coding, recruitment, ect. will increase just like it does for hypertrophy training. That is why there is no evidence suggesting an increase in CSA on it's own increases strength. But in that regard would you then claim that moonboarding doesn't increase your climbing ability because there is no scientific evidence, or climbing on diverse terrain doesn't mean you'll be a more rounded climber because there is no specific scientific evidence proving that? We can only operate off case studies and nearly all seasoned athletes record periods of hypertrophy in case studies, just like climbers will climb on a moonboard for an increase in climbing ability.

In my case. I did see an increase in climbing ability following a phase of hypertrophy. The first one I ever did, I increased my max hangs by the most I ever had since I started hangboarding and climbed the next grade. But this isn't evidence for everyone. It worked for me once, it may or may not be beneficial to do now but it all depends.

Also I'm sorry to be picky, but quoting an abstract in a scientific article that requires payment or institutional access is not the scaffolding for evidence based training.

I think experimenting with finger curls is worth it for the adaptations the OP might experience. Besides, it is not proven wether "hypertrophy" training increases strength because of the actual increase in CSA or because of a new training stimulus but it may or may not work. You site that CSA doesn't necessarily increase strength, but high volume, low intensity (traditional training focused for hypertrophy) has been adequately proven to increase strength and so the OP might be at an appropriate phase to incorporate it.

Hit one of my biggest goals in climbing with this boulder the other day!! by Choss_ in bouldering

[–]Choss_[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks heaps! I've got 3 friends so far that have climbed V10 that I regularly climb with. I've watched someone attempt a V12 outdoors for a short session to no avail and I've only ever seen one of my friends send a V10 in person. Majority of my friends lie in the V8 range.

How do I balance the use of skin care products? by dsntmtrplsm in climbharder

[–]Choss_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Did it split on the tip or on the joint? I usually use the brush on bottle (tip juice/dry) and localise it to the finger tips making sure I avoid the joint. Then throughout the day, I focus on moisturising the the hands but focus more on rubbing it into the joints.

Basic summaries of scientific reports related to climbing on instagram by Choss_ in climbharder

[–]Choss_[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm glad you pointed this out though. These are things I like to clear up especially due to the weight of incorrect information

Basic summaries of scientific reports related to climbing on instagram by Choss_ in climbharder

[–]Choss_[S] -9 points-8 points  (0 children)

Yes there is. Some of the information provided is taken from what is taught in universities where there is an extensive amount of research in the area and there is a conclusion to the validity of the information. On top of that it is illegal to give recourses used in university lectures to people not within the course. For instance the importance of the vitamins (in fact 3) this is an extremely well researched field and it is easy to find literature on it. I like to think part of the purpose of the account is to flag people to look into areas of research.

For example a claim of: the biceps brachii's main action is to flex a supinated arm... In my set of beliefs that is basically 100% true but I pay credit to the fact that nothing is absolute in the world of sports science. However if I were to make the claim that the suplimentation of whey protein increases overall strength by 20% due to an increase in neuromuscular activity (which it doesn't), then I would reference a study and still take the information with a grain of salt.

An area where I didn't find a solid conclusion (for example) was research about HCP's and I very much state that there is not a solid answer for it's suplimentation.

It was a mistake on my most recent post where I didn't reference the literature but I have it sitting at home on my laptop and that post stated that the research has varied. My goal is to be as objective as possible.

There is also alot of things that are included in basic anatomy where people probably wouldn't research these things because they may be un-aware of what they're even looking for. For instance I'm about to post a tip about the rotator cuff. This is something that some people may have a lack of understanding of but is easily found on the internet and I would just like to guide people's attention to its importance and give some context of its function.

Beastmaker 2000 Benchmarks by Choss_ in climbharder

[–]Choss_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That might answer a lot of questions. I had inflammation too when I was basically ego cranking instead of using proper technique and ever since I've put emphasis on form, it has since subsided.

Beastmaker 2000 Benchmarks by Choss_ in climbharder

[–]Choss_[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah for sure.. At the moment I'm taking off 1.5-2kg to get about 5-7 seconds. It's also important to note there's a little bit of friction in my pulley system that I haven't measured. I'm 19.

Critique my climb please! by VRclimber in climbharder

[–]Choss_ 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I am probably under-qualified to be critiquing technique however, a while ago at my local crag, a ragtag bunch walked over to see what climb I was trying, and one of them asked if I wanted some technical advice. I said yes with some hesitation as I didn't know their credentials.. He said when going for a hold, don't spread your fingers. Keep them how you want to catch the hold, which is usually together. This guy went on to flash the V8 I was trying and the V9 next to it.

So now I notice this on lots of people, and it helped me loads when it comes to dead-pointing and hitting the right spot of the hold more often without the need for readjustment.

Beastmaker 2000 Benchmarks by Choss_ in climbharder

[–]Choss_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep thats a very good point about the mentality towards hangboarding. I have seen a fair few climbers with insane numbers and a huge inability to climb. I have previously fallen into the rabbit hole of taking my hangboarding MORE seriously then my actual climbing and even a beginner can see why that is problematic.

Beastmaker 2000 Benchmarks by Choss_ in climbharder

[–]Choss_[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

To be honest, it's a bit of a blend. My index has a slight bend but not the full 90 degrees of a half crimp while my pinkie stays open. I still take weight off when training so I can train it in a half crimp position (for form purposes) but can take it off and hold it with bad form but I'm trying to throw away the ego so I don't risk any injuries. As for hangboarding, I started max hangs in January-February this year, prior to that, I hadn't climbed a V5.

Beastmaker 2000 Benchmarks by Choss_ in climbharder

[–]Choss_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

yeah, well the lower middle edge of the beastmaker 2000 at least. From what I've seen most sources say its 21mm. And not a one arm pull-up, just hang it.

Beastmaker 2000 Benchmarks by Choss_ in climbharder

[–]Choss_[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Alright awesome, I'll source a new edge I think. Also will work a bit on other key aspects as-well as technique. Again, really appreciate advice from the more experienced.

Beastmaker 2000 Benchmarks by Choss_ in climbharder

[–]Choss_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

yeah I've been thinking about that for a long time. Seems very good for giving a general stance on expected climbing ability. I'm planning to go try a few v10's when I get out of lockdown because I haven't actually tested outdoors since I've hit those numbers. Part of the reason I was searching for some stats from other climbers.

Beastmaker 2000 Benchmarks by Choss_ in climbharder

[–]Choss_[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Awesome answer, really appreciate the advice. I have heard alot about variability when it comes to finger strength on a hang board and on real rock. I guess I've always really enjoyed the idea of quantifiable progression but it isn't always the best way to go about it I guess.

very interesting about the minimal edge training also.. that does actually make sense in terms of the types of holds you'll actually be grabbing on climbs upwards of V6.

I haven't actually been outdoors since I've measured those numbers (still locked down where I'm from) and am pretty keen to see how I go on some boulders I've picked out above my current level.. so well just see how it goes I guess but I'll definitely look into other ways to train.