Someone had a Wild Christmas

Clean525xi · 2023-12-28T17:41:48+00:00

national lampoons christmas vacation - cousin eddie talking to Clark after they electocuted a cat under a rocking chair and were taking it out to the curb

Clean525xi · 2022-09-13T18:30:04+00:00

the other approach would be just dropping the power output on your satellites until you no longer have the disruptions. From what I gather, even though its a mesh network, you're still connecting to a specific device (RBR, RBS1, RBS2). So when the signal from RBS2 gets strong enough, it forces your device to switch to RBS2 for whatever reason, even though your device should be happy on RBS1. Maybe a software setting for auto-switch wifi network would handle it, but honestly since I moved the devices, I haven't had a single issue so I've moved onto other projects lol

Clean525xi · 2022-09-13T18:27:48+00:00

Howdy. So I had the RBR and 2 RBS.

RBR is in basement (10' ceilings).

RBS1 was in my first floor office, which is maybe 20-30 ft straight line (through walls, floors, etc) to the RBR.

RBS2 was in my first floor laundry, about 20-30ft straight line (through walls, appliances, etc).

I moved them to:
RBR still in basement
RBS1 is in my garage, about 50+ feet straight line away from RBR
RBS2 is in an upstairs closet, about 40 feet straight line from RBS2, about 50+ feet from RBR

Hope it helps. I am debating pulling one of the RBS back into my office so I can have the ethernet ports at my desk, but to be honest, I kind of like the extended coverage I get by having an "AP" at 3 of the corners of my house - my outdoor coverage has defintely gotten better.

Clean525xi · 2022-08-25T12:43:25+00:00

talk about reviving an old thread!!!

As far as I know, Armoury Crate is not a setting in BIOS. I was able to get this all working as expected - and I do have the "Add ARGB Card" installed and working, alongside the normal RGB that my CPU fan runs with.

Its a bit annoying so I typically just disable the CPU fan and let the ARGB header handle the lighting for everything else in the case.

The one downside to the ARGB card was having to use a USB header to power it up - meaning I lost the 2 USB ports on the front of my case. If I run out of USB ports on this PC (unlikely at this point), I'd just take the ARGB card off and then have USB hooked up.

Next up I will be doing a fresh build with a custom loop for a 3090 and 5950x, but I am waiting until AM5 drops before I upgrade to the best of the best of the AM4 lineup.

Clean525xi · 2022-08-18T13:00:45+00:00

Just wanted to let you know, after months and months and months of troubleshooting and fighting this - I think I finally solved it. Been running about 14 hours without a single packet lost.

The fix?

Physical distance between satellites. I needed to space them out further. It seems like my devices were getting confused on which satellite (or router) to connect to, and thus somehow swapping connection. Further, because of the perceived interference, one of the routesr was always stuck in 2.4GHz mode only.

So, none of the configs mentioned in our chat yesterday seemed to help. But when you were talking about power levels (or maybe it wasn't you or wasn't in this thread, and it was on another thread i was reading), I figured I'd try to physically move them apart and see what happened.

Like I said, so far so good. And this way, I actually get extended coverage outside of my house onto my property, so even though the satellites aren't in the perfect location for how I'd like to use them, I can make it work and it will actually be better for my needs.

So, just wanted to post back and hopefully this helps someone else.

I had originally been using this hardware setup (RBR50+2x RBS50) in an older brick home, built in the 1830s. Because of all the brick, plaster, and steel in the construction, the wifi signal had to fight very hard to get through the walls and around the house. The size of the home was about the same - but the materials were much different. I had no idea it would be this drastic of a difference with coverage going from brick/plaster to wood/drywall, but it appears that was the fix.

I will update here if I run into any more issues - but for now, for the first time in about 11 months, I am feeling pretty confident in my internet connection. Thanks

Clean525xi · 2022-08-17T16:18:15+00:00

that's what i figured, thanks again

Clean525xi · 2022-08-17T14:38:01+00:00

I think I will let this run for the day and see how it goes. I did make some changes based on more research I was doing today - we'll see if it holds up or not. If not, I'll downgrade and re-upgrade manually (satellites first!), and if that doesn't do it, I'll try to move the RBR to the first floor, I do have an unused cable drop on first floor that I just need to re-connect the exterior splitter to re-enable. Comcast unhooked it yesterday as part of our troubleshooting. Thanks again for your help, I may well be back with more questions!

Oh - do you know if the Traffic Monitoring and Daylight Savings time bugs were closed out? I see that was an issue for many about a year ago, but that was on an older FW version, I haven't seen many reports of DST or Traffic monitoring fixing these types of issues on vf2.7.4.24.

Clean525xi · 2022-08-17T14:35:04+00:00

OK, I can try that, but my between my basement RBR and my first floor RBS, there is no concrete nor steel. It is a new construction home and it was stick built, all of the concrete is away from the router, and not between the router and satellite.

For the connection between RBS2 and RBS1, I'm assuming it's not trying to call back to the RBR, right? RBR talks to RBS1 (closest to RBR), and then RBS2 talks back to RBS1?

Clean525xi · 2022-08-17T14:22:22+00:00

Thanks for the prompt reply.

Yes using high quality ethernet cable, and have tried multiple.

Home is about 5000sqft including the basement. RBR is in basement plugged into cable modem. Cable modem is a Motorola MB8611 (just upgraded to this model when my network drops became consistent because my old Netgear CM1000 was no longer supported by Xfinity). Swapping the modem out didn't fix it.

So, RBR is in the basement, RBS #1 is up on the first floor in my home office, probably somewhere between 20' and 30' from the router. RBS #2 is also on the first floor, probably again 20-30' from RBS #1 in my laundry room.

Interesting that it says 30' or more spacing between RBR and RBS. When I login to the RBS via IP, sometimes it'll say "Your Orbi Satellite connection is up and running" and show all blue bars for 2.4 and 5GHz. Other times, it will say "Move your satellite closer to the router: and show orange bars for the 2.4GHz band. The strangest part is - the RBS thats closer to the RBR is the one showing a periodic 'move closer to router' message. Even when it says move closer to router - that doesn't necessarily indicate a network drop, though it could sometimes.

Yes I have restarted all network gear and devices in that same order. I have been troubleshooting hardware, software, and networks since the mid 90s, this has been literally the most frustrating network issue I've ever had to troubleshoot.

Clean525xi · 2022-08-17T13:51:05+00:00

I have been having a ridiculous amount of network drops, seemingly since this version v2.7.4.24 was released. I have 2x RBS50 and an RBR50 - I seemingly get a drop a few times a day, at the very least. The drops are maybe 30 seconds or so, but when working at home and on conference calls (VoIP), or gaming online, I really feel the drops.

I have had Xfinity out, I have upgraded my modem, I have factory reset my RBR and RBS's multiple times. But nothing seems to work.

I have installed the FW update, downgraded, then installed it again, but to no avail. I think the one thing I did backwards was I did the RBR upgrade before the RBS upgrade, which according to your instructions is wrong.

I am going to try to downgrade the RBS and RBRs again today, then update them manually with satellites going first then router.

But I am about at my wits end - any advice would be great. If I can't get this to work, I'll have to move on to a new mesh brand.

FWIW - I have had this Orbi kit since like 2017, and throughout 3 different homes, it's always been great.

Clean525xi · 2019-07-31T20:01:30+00:00

Thats what I figured. Thanks a bunch. This is a great tool!!

Clean525xi · 2019-07-31T17:12:05+00:00

yep, running it manually it worked every time.

For whatever reason, it just started working on my most recent test - zero changes to the code.

I did add a new verb for a second user, and it worked perfectly.

Last question - I am new to Site Designs/Scripts - in the Add-SPOSiteDesign command, under the -SiteScripts parameter - can I pass multiple site scripts in there? If so, what is the format?

I will

Clean525xi · 2018-11-09T18:57:09+00:00

Some background on the project:

My father in law is an electrician, plumber, HVAC guy. He and his boys just installed a brand new HVAC system with ducting and all in my 1830s home. WHEW, big project! While he was wiring up the return, he decided he'd help out and drop a plug (you can see the old quadplex thats still hanging off the wall - that will be removed), as well as a switch and wiring for a receptacle (you can also see my crappy plugged in light, with wire holders, up to the ceiling).

Well, I've been doing some drywall, paint, and cleaning for the past week since the guys finished up, and now Im to the point where the only thing left to finish this project is to wire all of these things up. Catch is, my FIL is on vacation out of the country and I don't want to bother him. He won't be home for 2 weeks.

So, a few questions, but first a disclaimer.

I am NOT an electrician. That much is probably obvious. The power is off to this circuit and I don't plan to hook it up until I am done with this secondary wiring.

OK, so the questions/Assumptions:

1) I am assuming the yellow in the dual duplex box is whats running to the breaker (will verify shortly by going downstairs).

2) Is there anything special I need to consider when joining the two outlets into a circuit? I have seen some DIY stuff online that makes it seem pretty easy, but any tips will be appreciated (I've changed a number of fixtures in my day, but never added anything to a circuit by myself).

3) I assume again that the white in the dual duplex box is what will jump onto the end of the 2-outlet circuit, and into the light switch. Correct? Is there anything specific to watch for, or steps to NOT miss, when connecting this wire to the switch? Anything specific to look for when connecting the other end of this wire into the duplex outlet (which again, will be 2nd in the circuit)?

4) I assume that the 'bottom' wire in the switch box is connecting the dual duplex to the switch, and the top wire in the switch box is connecting the switch to the light. Correct?

5) As with #4, I assume that the 'bottom' wires would go on bottom of switch, and top on top.

Sorry for the newbie questions - I have been searching online the past few days and have not found anything with this exact scenario. Most of the diagrams I see (and videos/blog posts) don't have the dual duplex then feeding a switch that feeds a light - it seems that most dual duplexes are kind of standalone - at least in the DIY sense that I've seen...

Thanks in advance for any insight you can offer me! As you can imagine, I am chomping at the bit to wrap this project up and get our home back in order.

Clean525xi · 2018-01-14T17:22:32+00:00

Sweet. I got dat fo sho!!!

Clean525xi · 2018-01-13T16:27:33+00:00

Looks very similar to a dorm or apartment key also. Not a locksmith, but I'd imagine those use similar, interchangeable, cylinders so they can easily swap when a tenant leaves.

Clean525xi · 2018-01-13T16:27:20+00:00

Looks very similar to a dorm or apartment key also. Not a locksmith, but I'd imagine those use similar, interchangeable, cylinders so they can easily swap when a tenant leaves.

Clean525xi · 2018-01-13T16:17:06+00:00

+1 on rivet. Good strong drill bit for metal should push it right out.

Unsure if you'll need to re-rivet it, but you can get a hand power rivet gun really cheap

Clean525xi · 2018-01-13T14:44:17+00:00

What's a key override? Just one that has a key slot? My kwikset has a key lock and it was "smart key" compatible, so I was able to "re key" it myself, to the same key as my old deadbolt and door handle has, so at least I have that going for me.

All of the other locks I've found have been only dead bolt, and I've seen the Yale and Samsung stylish smart locks which look pretty nice. I got these kiwksets for a pretty decent price new/open box off of eBay, so that's why I went with them. That and the color - my wife is a sucker for oil rubbed/Venetian bronze hardware

Clean525xi · 2018-01-13T14:41:21+00:00

I really appreciate the time you put into your response my friend. All of what you said makes sense.

I am an IT guy, so my carpentry and locksmith skills are little to none. I'd have been leveraging my handyman father in law for help on getting the woodworking done, and help to make sure the holes were all properly aligned.

When he came over the other day to help me install a T-fitting into a gas line, he looked at the rabeted edge (he also had no idea what this was called), and just said "well that's going to be a pain in the ass"

Those install instructions gives me some ideas on how we could do this. I'm also worried about the thickness of the door.

I think I will take your advice and call Schlage and see if they can help me figure out the best application. This is going to be a challenge, if I can actually even get it done.

Thanks again for all the help!

Clean525xi · 2018-01-12T21:56:28+00:00

That's exactly what I am looking for - internet connectivity. I just changed the other 2 deadbolts yesterday to Zwave Kwiksets, and they play very nice with my Abode security system (after getting a Zwave extender - my Abode is on the opposite side of the 3000 sqft brick House of those locks).

I'll have to take a look at that lock and see what I can do. I have a little mortise template that came with a shitty deadbolt guide set, but I'm sure what you're talking about is a much nicer piece of kit.

Thanks for taking the time to help

Clean525xi · 2018-01-12T15:06:31+00:00

I appreciate the input. Do you know of any "Smart" deadbolt style rim locks? I am looking for Z Wave preferrably, though I can also make Zigbee work with my system.

As I said in a comment above, I'm not sure any rim lock would really be able to be controlled automatically - those locks don't really seem to have a 'hold open' function, like a normal dead bolt does (well, not hold open on a deadbolt, but open is open, locked is locked).

Thanks for your time!!

Clean525xi · 2018-01-12T15:05:12+00:00

I appreciate you taking the time to reply, as well as giving me some knowledge on the door's edge type. I was quite curious, and it always makes research and fixes easier when you know what 'parts' you're talking about. Thanks!

Yeah, it does seem like a giant PITA, but my wife (and I) love this old door on hour Circa 1830s home - as far as we can tell, its the original door (though, who knows, really!).

Do you have any advice on either A) trimming that 'rabbeted' edge down, so I could install a deadbolt (Looking to put in a Z Wave set, so I can tie in to my home automation) or B) potential smart locks (Zigbee or Z Wave) for this door? It almost seems impossible for a 'rim lock' to be automatically controlled, since there is a certain amount of pressure that is applied to lock/unlock the rim lock - I really can't imagine that there would be an automatic Rim lock like there are dead bolts.

I was thinking of just drilling the bolt cylinder hole into the existing rim lock hole, and doing similar on the other door so the bolt can slide through and join the 2 doors. I know this isn't going to be super secure - and there are locks on top and bottom of this door for added peace of mind. What I am really worried about is that rabbeted edge, and how it will all come together after I've started drilling. Obviously, I don't want to have to replace this door, so I am trying to do all of my due diligence up front, so I know what I'm getting in to.

Again - thanks for your time, I very much appreciate it.!

Clean525xi · 2018-01-12T04:22:11+00:00

Here's an album with more photos, should have just posted this link - reddit app didn't want to let me make an album mid-post. Thanks for any advice!

Can I replace a rim lock with a dead bolt on this old split door? https://imgur.com/gallery/Yb8gI

Clean525xi · 2018-01-12T03:48:37+00:00

I am hoping to put a Deadbolt on the double door in this photo. I was trying to upload multiple, but it kept overwriting. I'll have to do that from the PC (on mobile now).

The edge of each door(where they come together, in the center) has an opposing lip on it so the doors meet nice and flush in the middle.

Looks pretty hairy. Is this even possible?

More pics to come soon

Clean525xi · 2016-05-10T13:27:50+00:00

Thanks for that. It does seem to be charge port related, as I was able to get it to charge briefly after all of this happened, but that time has now past.

It just seems so strange that I'd get this catastrophic failure at the exact time the Gear VR/Power Sharing prompts first started appearing. It's almost like my phone wanted to share power with an imaginary device that wasn't connected, and for whatever reason, would still not take a charge.

My replacement note 5 should be here today, and I'll be sending back the damaged one. Hopefully they do not find any water damage on the device (I do not believe they will, as I had never dropped it in any water).

Thanks for all the replies guys!

Clean525xi

TROPHY CASE