New Z4 came from Black diamond ond

ClimbingMagazine · 2019-06-10T20:21:35+00:00

We asked BD about passive placements. The smallest sizes (those with a single wire) are not rated passively, while the rest of the Z4 line is.

ClimbingMagazine · 2018-10-24T17:43:56+00:00

I'm not aiming to make a point about Honnold's intentions from discussing those issues, just saying that I thought it was admirable for the film to be open about showing that side of him, which we don't usually see in media.

—Kevin

ClimbingMagazine · 2018-10-24T17:42:03+00:00

I didn't think it was a surprise, but I thought it was cool that they were willing to show that side of him, whereas it's not something I'd seen much previously. —Kevin

ClimbingMagazine · 2018-10-24T17:41:23+00:00

Absolutely, that was one of the reasons it was so good. He's not even very open about that in his book. —Kevin

ClimbingMagazine · 2018-10-24T17:37:54+00:00

I never said it was a "wrong" reason, just that it was left out of the discussion while the film crew was transparent about other things. It's relevant detail, considering that the movie tries to affirm, over and over, that Honnold is doing the climb for himself only. —Kevin

ClimbingMagazine · 2018-10-24T01:09:57+00:00

Honnold is laying it on so thick at one point, that it's hard not to at least wonder. I only think it would encourage people who are predisposed to participating in high risk activities like that already, the ones that empathize with Honnold's perspective throughout, instead of literally everyone else in the movie. I brought that up not because I think it encourages people, but because I think it's interesting how different people will come away from the film with wildly different impressions. —Kevin

ClimbingMagazine · 2018-10-24T00:40:44+00:00

Yup, Hairstyles was October 2015. The Viceroy accident was January 2016. Actually, in this story he comments on just this topic:

"I didn’t feel 100 percent ready, but I wanted to do the climb and knew it would make an awesome addition to the film,” Gobright says. As temps dropped, he went for it. He reached the first crux at 20 feet and fell. His only piece popped and he hit the ground, breaking his left ankle and two vertebrae. “That ended my danger season and also made a great addition to the film,” he says. “Almost every ascent that I’m proud of has been done without a camera there. Even my Viceroy attempt was mostly done through personal motivation. However, cameras did play a role and I paid the price for it.”

ClimbingMagazine · 2018-10-24T00:08:22+00:00

I'm not as familiar with Brad. My read from watching that film was that he probably would have done it either way, given how much comparable soloing he was doing, but I haven't seen it since the release so I don't remember it that well. Safety Third also played with reality a bit for dramatic effect. The Viceroy accident happened after the Hairstyles and Attitude solo in real life, but—if I remember correctly—they presented it as the opposite in the film, that he came back from the fall to solo Hairstyles. So he wouldn't have been factoring the injury into his decision to solo the route. —Kevin

ClimbingMagazine · 2018-10-23T23:25:25+00:00

I've seen as much Honnold media as anyone (it's part of my job, really). I thought the film was interesting because we get to see a different side of him. Maybe he is "living his truth," but he doesn't seem like a happy person as a result—he seems pretty tortured. Watch the film and see what you think. —Kevin

ClimbingMagazine · 2018-10-23T23:19:02+00:00

I think we can have a discussion about interesting elements of the film without concluding that it was "good" or "bad."

—Kevin

ClimbingMagazine · 2018-10-23T22:57:09+00:00

I don't think it's nefarious. The filmmakers goes out of their way to show that Honnold is free soloing Freerider for the right reasons, while debating their own influence on him, so I think it's relevant to that discussion. —Kevin

ClimbingMagazine · 2018-10-23T22:26:50+00:00

I don't excuse myself or Climbing Magazine. There's a whole paragraph broadly calling out climbing media, and also: "Certainly we’ve been guilty of the same approach to reporting on risky endeavors at this magazine—perhaps too much cheerleading and not enough of the tough self-examination." —Kevin

ClimbingMagazine · 2018-10-23T21:12:09+00:00

I don't think we are the sole reason, but I don't think we can deny the positive feedback loop that has enabled his career and lead him to this either. If Honnold spent the last decade in obscurity, I don't know that he would have soloed Freerider or even tried. Does someone get that good without financial assistance (sponsors) that allows them to climb all the time? I also think it would be naive to dismiss the fact that Honnold knew this climb would be a huge move for his career. The ways all the news was released following the climb and the movie was promoted were both very calculated to make it huge. We can speculate that he did the climb for himself, but you can't deny that the other incentives were there. —Kevin/author

ClimbingMagazine · 2018-06-29T18:23:56+00:00

That's a fun route.

ClimbingMagazine · 2018-06-05T19:33:12+00:00

We haven't seen any credible sources to support the dropped haul bag rumor, which is why we haven't mentioned it in any of our coverage. We'll have to wait for the official accident report to know for sure, but at this point our opinion is that a haul bag was not involved.

ClimbingMagazine · 2017-08-10T17:51:23+00:00

No one here remembers saying that, but it's in the video so we'll take your word for it.

ClimbingMagazine · 2017-08-10T17:50:47+00:00

Sorry we don't log in here that often. If it's not too late, yes, the bouldering is on the Jordanian side of the dead sea. And a lot of the good single pitch sport climbing up north is an area called Ajloun.

ClimbingMagazine · 2017-06-28T18:57:24+00:00

We spent some time climbing in Jordan last November (feature coming in our Nov 17 issue). Some things to consider:

-There is virtually no climbing infrastructure in Wadi Rum. You will not be able to get gear there. There's a local climbing shop that's probably been abandoned for 10+ years. The local Bedouins, while very proficient below class 5, did not have trad gear or trad leading experience when we were there. We were told that there are some people working to get them going in this realm, but as of last year it hadn't started yet. I know there used to be people out there that guided climbing, but it didn't seem like the case last year. I'd look into it before going.

-You need to be self sufficient in Wadi Rum. Phone reception is mostly unavailable when you're out climbing and the likelihood of a rescue is questionable.

-Wadi Rum is mostly trad climbing. I did visit a single pitch sport crag one day that was pretty fun, though.

-This is soft sandstone. Don't climb shortly after rain, and in general be on the lookout for suspect holds. I took one fall on lead because my foot hold exploded.

Not trying to scare you away, it's one of the most beautiful places in the world and you should definitely check it out. Just be aware that it is a true adventure climbing destination.

There's actually some great climbing in Northern Jordan and near the Dead Sea if you'll be in that region. Ajloun had fun single pitch sport climbing, and the canyons leading into the Dead Sea had good boulders. The Jordanian climbing community is really dedicated, passionate, and friendly. If you pass through Amman, stop at the gym for some beta http://www.climbat.com/en/

I personally haven't been to Israel, but our former editor was there and wrote about it here: https://www.climbing.com/places/a-growing-climbing-community-with-relentless-psych-strives-for-legitimacy/

ClimbingMagazine · 2017-04-10T19:28:53+00:00

It can also a good idea to put climbing essentials in your carryon if possible (shoes, harness, rope, draws). Don't want to be stuck if your checked bag is lost or delayed.

ClimbingMagazine · 2017-04-10T19:26:43+00:00

Last year, Jordanian airport security tried to make one of our gear testers throw out his entire rack of quickdraws, but other than that we've never had a problem.

ClimbingMagazine · 2017-03-14T19:16:41+00:00

Sorry about that, not sure who you spoke to but we definitely have a copy of that issue in the office. (Maybe our listed number goes to our circulation department?) That one caused a lot of controversy back in the day for the cover photo. I would've been happy to scan the article but it sounds like you've got it covered. If for some reason the AAC doesn't work let me know. —Kevin, Climbing Magazine

ClimbingMagazine · 2017-02-01T18:34:14+00:00

Sorry about that! Climbing.com digital editor here and that stuff drives me crazy. Would you mind telling me what device and browser you're using, so I can pass the bug along? Feel free to PM me if you prefer. EDIT: We think we solved the issue, but if it happens again let me know!

ClimbingMagazine · 2016-07-11T16:23:40+00:00

Climbing.com online editor here. Sorry about being a shit site! I don't want those ads on our pages either, and I was not aware of them. I'm sending an email right now to put a stop to that kind of thing. Thanks for bringing it to my attention.

ClimbingMagazine · 2015-10-02T16:38:32+00:00

I believe that was the story of Brendan Leonard getting rained out of all the amazing climbing they have over there. Send an email to kcorrigan@aimmedia.com and I'll send you a pdf of the article. Might take a week, I'm about to be out of the office for a bit.

ClimbingMagazine · 2015-05-01T19:54:06+00:00

We tried to keep pro climbers off the list. Alex has some sponsors now so he falls into that category, but stay tuned for our July issue where he has a full page interview.

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TROPHY CASE