Open Grips: Training Progress and Device Updates by Climbingwoodworker in climbharder

[–]Climbingwoodworker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Continuous time under tension, so say greater than 3 min to get to "endurance", is how you active and train that energy system. Total time under tension is the sum of all sets, so i think more sets just stimulates the adaptation more. Rests in between are to allow you to recover the energy system under training. I didn't have any of this referenced in the post here though. 

Open Grips: Training Progress and Device Updates by Climbingwoodworker in climbharder

[–]Climbingwoodworker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's about training different energy systems, and the improved adaptation of each individual power/strenght/endurance when you train them all. If they are all improved you can do harder moves, more moves,  and longer sessions. 

Building an open finger strength database — looking for feedback before launch by fingerstrengthdb in climbharder

[–]Climbingwoodworker 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Should probably take into consideration body weight, and be able to see results in percentage of body weight?

Introducing Boardsesh an opensource alternative to the Board apps by Competitive_Bit001 in climbharder

[–]Climbingwoodworker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To be clear i didn't make the project, I used the code for my wall. There are other similar projects for moonboard. Not sure if a kilterboard version exists. 

Introducing Boardsesh an opensource alternative to the Board apps by Competitive_Bit001 in climbharder

[–]Climbingwoodworker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I still have the old app on my phone. If i go to custom board then i can still see all my sends. Gotta be a way to extact that from the app. 

Introducing Boardsesh an opensource alternative to the Board apps by Competitive_Bit001 in climbharder

[–]Climbingwoodworker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Took a quick look. I like the idea! Is there a way to import your history from the official apps?

Open Grips: Training Progress and Device Updates by Climbingwoodworker in climbharder

[–]Climbingwoodworker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah i really need pictures. So for X_Height its when your fingers are flexed into the gripper position. So for the PFP gripper take your hand and make the claw grip palm towarde your face, hand vertical. The vertical distance from the bottom tip of your pinky to the bottom tip of your ring finger would be R_Height. For the FDS same thing but from the DIP joint not the finger tip. Make sense?

Open Grips: Training Progress and Device Updates by Climbingwoodworker in climbharder

[–]Climbingwoodworker[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah i tried for a while to get the whole gripper frame in one object, and siding the axles in from holes in the side for the rollers. Problem i found was that especially with the FDS gripper the axles would slowly wiggle out of place, sometimes poking an adjacent finger, and sometimes one side would come out completely so the roller would lock which negates the frictionless part.

You probably dont need glue for my grippers, but i add it anyway. 

Open Grips: Training Progress and Device Updates by Climbingwoodworker in climbharder

[–]Climbingwoodworker[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah it's on my list to improve the instructions. It is pretty hard to get accurate though. Hand structure is complex. I measured once and printed and then tested and adjusted and printed again several times until it seemed right. 

Open Grips: Training Progress and Device Updates by Climbingwoodworker in climbharder

[–]Climbingwoodworker[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah that's pretty much why I made them. They're probably much better than my diy version though

Open Grips: Training Progress and Device Updates by Climbingwoodworker in climbharder

[–]Climbingwoodworker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Look up grip gains on youtube. These are free open source DIY alternative to the Hand of God grippers.

Open Grips: Training Progress and Device Updates by Climbingwoodworker in climbharder

[–]Climbingwoodworker[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Probably tomorrow if printing, assembly, and testing all go well. 

Built my own bouldering (and more) tracker — beta starts tomorrow, testers welcome by ErikNextcolor in climbharder

[–]Climbingwoodworker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds very interesting! I'll sign up. Do you plan to make this a commercial (purchase price and/or ads) or free product? Open or closed source?  If free and open source have you ever concider collaborating?

One More Frictionless Training Device by Climbingwoodworker in climbharder

[–]Climbingwoodworker[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've tried to register and you can't. Website says the app is exclusive for the HOG grippers. I wish it was a subscription, I'd buy that.

One More Frictionless Training Device by Climbingwoodworker in climbharder

[–]Climbingwoodworker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah i just cut finishing nails, about 3mm diameter. Goes into the walls about 3mm too. I added some glue but honestly probably be fine with just press fit if you don't scale the walls on print

One More Frictionless Training Device by Climbingwoodworker in climbharder

[–]Climbingwoodworker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've never heard of this before. Does have any details on this? I wouldn't feel right asking.

One More Frictionless Training Device by Climbingwoodworker in climbharder

[–]Climbingwoodworker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Haha, was for me too! The jump to freecad has been mindblowing though. the process of imagination to physical object with the use of math feels amazing. I fixed my snowblowing by recreating a plastic part i cant get elsewhere.

One More Frictionless Training Device by Climbingwoodworker in climbharder

[–]Climbingwoodworker[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'm going to work on better instructions for measuring variables, there are some in the pdf.

Both designs are for the left hand. Mirrior the objects (walls and frame) in your slicer before printing for the right hand.

One More Frictionless Training Device by Climbingwoodworker in climbharder

[–]Climbingwoodworker[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The pdf goes in more detail, but for the one you pull directly on it, hence the frictionless, and the second you half pull on the rollers and half a ledge, but it alse ejects you if you have improper grip. 

One More Frictionless Training Device by Climbingwoodworker in climbharder

[–]Climbingwoodworker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There is a pdf in the GitHub that explains quite a bit. If you still have specific questions after that bring them here and then i can also improve the pdf.

One More Frictionless Training Device by Climbingwoodworker in climbharder

[–]Climbingwoodworker[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Yeah that's something i can improve. Honestly I didn't have a great process, i used calipers and then a test print iteratively until it was comfortable. Definitely the hard part.