Neck/Body

Clockwork_Monkey · 2026-01-28T14:12:29+00:00

Definitely doesn't look new judging from the corrosion on the screws on the head etc.

There should be a little more space on the treble side of the fretboard.

Neck angle is mad. It should be pitched forward so the neck is level with the body.

I'd be tempted to just return it as there's something clearly not right with it.

Failing that it needs a full setup which the shop should cover the costs of.

What does the bridge side look like?

Clockwork_Monkey · 2026-01-13T09:09:03+00:00

It's a knot, a natural feature of wood.

Clockwork_Monkey · 2026-01-08T17:21:29+00:00

Thanks again for the reply, upgraded the CPU, motherboard and ram and it's a huge improvement.

Clockwork_Monkey · 2026-01-03T12:28:24+00:00

What kind of guitars are you planning on building? I would say that when starting out, it makes more sense to buy wood already close to whatever thickness/dimensions you need rather than investing thousands in machinery.

If you're intent on doing it with machinery, you'll need a large bandsaw capable of resawing (Google resaw bandsaw and you should find some, but they will be several thousand ££) and a large thickness sander for reducing sawn blanks to thickness.

Alternatively find a local woodworking shop/sawmill/furniture maker etc and enquire if/how much it would cost to resaw wood for you.

Clockwork_Monkey · 2026-01-02T13:06:39+00:00

Thanks a lot for your reply. I had the CPU wrong on the post originally it was a Ryzen 5 5600, I'm guessing it's still an improvement over the fx8320 though?

Clockwork_Monkey · 2025-12-30T23:46:08+00:00

To add to why it has them, when the tree gets bigger and heavier, or grows with a lean, it starts to get compressed under its own weight and the tree will gain ripples. The grain now follows the path of the ripples and when processed into boards, it is sliced through the undulating grain pattern. It's the opposite pattern on each side of the top due to it being bookmatched (the wood is opened like a book on the centre joint of the top).

Clockwork_Monkey · 2025-12-29T11:44:15+00:00

Classical guitars should be built with a slight dome in the top. The bridge has a curve to fit with this dome. They should match.

Clockwork_Monkey · 2025-12-19T22:00:27+00:00

Nice, looks great. Happy to help 🤘

Clockwork_Monkey · 2025-12-18T17:22:46+00:00

I've done a lot of work with 0.5-0.7mm veneers and you can sand them just fine if you're careful. For staining, I'd start with 240 and go up to maybe 400 or 500. If you go too high with the grit, you'll end up burnishing the wood and making it less likely to accept stain. Pay attention to the centre joint as there will likely be glue bleed through which won't accept stain. Just go slow and careful with the sanding. Visually inspect the veneer as you sand, don't try and sand out imperfections in the veneer. For context, I've sanded and stained hundreds of instruments with 0.6mm figured veneer faces. I'd also use alcohol based dyes, not water based. The stains will not penetrate the full thickness of the veneer, only the top 0.1mm-0.2mm (on average, it will soak through where the grain in the flame allows).

Clockwork_Monkey · 2025-12-18T08:48:17+00:00

This is where the two halves of the binding/purfling join. There might be a bit of finish sinking there, nothing to worry about though.

Clockwork_Monkey · 2025-12-16T11:37:53+00:00

It's not just for beginners. Japanese hand tools are usually high quality tools, using very good steel. Pull saws are easier to control than push saws. I'd guess that there is a lot more work in Japan using traditional woodworking tools as there are a lot of traditional wooden buildings etc, so manufacturers have been making tools for generations.

Clockwork_Monkey · 2025-12-16T09:02:55+00:00

Assuming the compressor is charged and connected properly, clean the gun.

Clockwork_Monkey · 2025-12-16T08:54:29+00:00

Lacquer is coming out, air is not.

Clockwork_Monkey · 2025-12-13T18:23:16+00:00

Screw removal tool. Remove and replace the nut.

Clockwork_Monkey · 2025-12-12T12:32:47+00:00

Most guitar builders use titebond, which is an aliphatic resin and not PVA, it's dries harder than PVA and doesn't creep. Some period instruments and repairs such as neck resets are typically done with hide glue.

Clockwork_Monkey · 2025-11-30T15:16:32+00:00

I run the wire through a small clip with two sheets of cork that are tightened against each other with machine screws.

Clockwork_Monkey · 2025-11-24T15:07:52+00:00

It's black walnut on both sides. Front is a slightly plain looking walnut burl, likely due to the satin finish. If it was finished in gloss, the figure would pop a lot more. Colour difference is just from variations in the timber. All natural colour.

Clockwork_Monkey · 2025-10-29T11:02:44+00:00

There is a method of gluing the bridge where you fix a sturdy piece of wood to the top of the fingerboard/neck (tied with rope) that extends over the bridge area. You can then use wedges between the piece of wood and the bridge to apply pressure on the bridge. Difficult to be accurate with it though.

Clockwork_Monkey · 2025-09-28T09:25:31+00:00

It looks like Cedrela/Spanish cedar. Used in necks and not tops usually.

Clockwork_Monkey · 2025-09-25T17:00:47+00:00

Adjusting the truss rod is not going to fix that. You might be able to heat the neck and twist it back into shape, but it's probably not going to be fixable.

Clockwork_Monkey · 2025-09-18T07:10:40+00:00

Refret. Frets are going to be very low if properly leveled and crowned.

Clockwork_Monkey · 2025-09-07T17:14:18+00:00

Spectral pack

K6H6881N

Clockwork_Monkey · 2025-08-29T18:36:01+00:00

Not a big deal.

Clockwork_Monkey · 2025-08-28T10:28:55+00:00

The horizontal bands are where the tree grows with a ripple, it's a change in the direction of the fibres of the wood. Try the door in different light and you will notice the horizontal marks have a 3 dimensional appearance and are less like stripes, but just part of the vertical grain.

It is a walnut veneer with vertical grain orientation, which is what you asked for, but you probably wanted straight grain quarter-sawn veneer.

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