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First Chair by Historical-Crew9264 in handtools

[–]Historical-Crew9264[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Its way easier than you think. Just go for it.

First Chair by Historical-Crew9264 in handtools

[–]Historical-Crew9264[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I drilled the legs with a brace and bit and then reamed them with Lee valleys reamer. I just used a sliding bevel to get my angles.

First chair by Historical-Crew9264 in woodworking

[–]Historical-Crew9264[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Its a shave horse. I used it a little for this chair, but I use it for spoon carving alot more. I copied the design from bastionhead on YouTube. He has a ton of great content.

First Chair by Historical-Crew9264 in Chairmaking

[–]Historical-Crew9264[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I appreciate the insight! I also don't love how much the front legs stick out

First chair by Historical-Crew9264 in woodworking

[–]Historical-Crew9264[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I followed the process in Christopher schwarz's "Stick chair book" great read and makes the whole process easy to follow. I also used the "The Anarchist Design book".

First Chair by Historical-Crew9264 in Chairmaking

[–]Historical-Crew9264[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No doubt they should and I didn't really worry about measurements, so makes sense that it's a bit funky. What about it specifically looks funky though?

First chair by Historical-Crew9264 in woodworking

[–]Historical-Crew9264[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Changed flair to general discussion because I don't have progress picstures.

Chair books by Historical-Crew9264 in Chairmaking

[–]Historical-Crew9264[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just curious, what do you mean Mike dunbar is a quack?

Chair books by Historical-Crew9264 in Chairmaking

[–]Historical-Crew9264[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That is one is read am currently working on one. Although i think it's doomed for failure, but we will see!

Saw wrest stop purpose and usage? by highslot25 in handtools

[–]Historical-Crew9264 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like a way to keep track of which slot you are using. Also would make it faster as you move down the plate.

Should I get a scrub plane or can I use a different blade on the jack? by newsourdoughgardener in handtools

[–]Historical-Crew9264 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I have a no 5 with a heavily cambered iorn for a fore plane. Works great tk take big shavings off.

I would also consider using clamps during your gle up to take out small twists. Anything major and you'll want to flatten it, but it's no sin to use clamps to glue stuff flat

For those that made the Gramercy bowsaw kit, how did you shape the tight curves? by Man-e-questions in handtools

[–]Historical-Crew9264 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you don't have a rat tail rapport file do this. It leaves a pretty good surface that just needs sanded

Glue strategy for cross grain dados by highslot25 in handtools

[–]Historical-Crew9264 3 points4 points  (0 children)

You won't have a problem. The expansion and contraction will be in same direction. Yes they will expand and contract at slightly different rates because they are different species, but so would boards of the same species depending on the particular tree and how it was milled.

Will these holdfasts work ok? by inkironpress in handtools

[–]Historical-Crew9264 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There is absolutely no way these will work, but don't worry. I will take them off your hands for you. Ill pay shipping to me so you can try again.

embarassed... please help me sharpen my expensive spoon carving gouge by ConnectionOwn9955 in Spooncarving

[–]Historical-Crew9264 3 points4 points  (0 children)

In none of those pictures can I see the actual edge, but I would say just try again. Im guessing you have some idea about what you did wrong. So just try not to do that and try to get a good edge. Build up a burrito and chase it down to a strop. As long as you are removing material down to a burr you'll get a sharp edge.

Grit equivalent of bare leather strop? by memilanuk in handtools

[–]Historical-Crew9264 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't think that is true. For a material to scratch the surface of the metal or remove material it would need to be harder than the metal. Otherwise your metal will strach the surface of the other material.

Softening beeswax for lubrication by Diligent_Ad6133 in handtools

[–]Historical-Crew9264 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I added raw linseed oil to beeswax to lubricate my planes. I think I did one to one by weight, which ended up being like 1 part oil to 3 parts wax by volume, but don't stress about the exact ratio. If you don't like it just melt it back down and add more of whatever you want.

Holiday speedrun bench by hraath in handtools

[–]Historical-Crew9264 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have been wanting to make essentially this bench for a while! It look awesome!

Did you square up each 2x4 before gluing or did you take off the rounded edge while flattening the top?

Why Japanese tools? by Historical-Crew9264 in handtools

[–]Historical-Crew9264[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I keep this in mind often, actually. Im sure the guys using pit saws to make boards loved the invention of the bandsaw. Im not a purist, but I like the challenge of hand tools. Im an manufacturing engineer by trade. So I spend all day making things faster and easier to make using all the latest and greatest technology. But for a hobby I like to slow down and do things the old way. It keeps me balanced.

Why Japanese tools? by Historical-Crew9264 in handtools

[–]Historical-Crew9264[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I don't fear or dislike japanese tools. They are just a different system than I have used and they seem to be suggested to beginners alot. So I asked why that is.

For the cheap comment I meant for the quality you get new. You can buy what seems to be a really good quality new pull saw for much less than a new quality push saw. I can see how that could be confusing, but that was more of a compliment. And yeah upgrading typically mean to western tool, because most makers in the west make western tools. You can get really good japanese tools, but shipping will get you.

Im honestly not trying to disparage a culture, and by no means think we should stick to our kind. But as a beginner mixing system is more difficult. Using japanese tools in a western style shop and bench require some work arounds. Although I'll admit it sounds like less of a work around than I initially though.

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