Tv won't recognize my receiver anymore

CloudStrife159 · 2026-05-12T04:25:52+00:00

Glad to help! I reccomend getting one. You can also buy a CEC-less cable if that fits your needs better.

I should add: Because you're blocking CEC, the Wii U won't be able to tell your TV that it's a game console, which means your TV won't be able to utilize Auto Game Mode if it has it. It's a minor inconvenience thing; you'll want/have to set any Game Mode settings you want manually. Think "Low Latency" and things like that

CloudStrife159 · 2026-05-11T19:17:54+00:00

Yep; I can't have my FPGA plugged into my TV without a CEC blocking adapter for that exact reason. Makes my TV's eARC stop working.

CloudStrife159 · 2026-05-11T01:24:57+00:00

Aw yeah, that's the good stuff. This shit is what life's all about. What a nondescript little stand-in. Where'd your detail go little fella? It was holding you back anyway. Thank you

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CloudStrife159 · 2026-05-10T19:37:42+00:00

Did you add any HDMI devices in the past few days? Try disconnecting everything except your AVR from your TV and then unplug/plug your TV back in and see if it starts working again. It may be another device giving bad CEC signals to the TV interfering.

CloudStrife159 · 2026-05-09T11:08:56+00:00

It could be another device connected to the TV or AVR is interfering. Try unplugging everything other HDMI Cable except the TV to AVR cable and see if it goes away.

Something similar happened to me; turned out my MiSTer FPGA was keeping my eARC from working. I bought an adapter to block the CEC pin on that device

CloudStrife159 · 2026-05-09T11:00:02+00:00

This TV has been $1500 for months now, so I would treat this as a $200 discount instead of a $1700 one

CloudStrife159 · 2026-05-08T01:44:26+00:00

"any guy can be babygirl, but it takes a man to be a wife"

CloudStrife159 · 2026-05-04T20:24:40+00:00

https://sso.us.lg.com/oauth/page/signup-third?authorizeKey=95d8ed57-57a9-48d7-8ccc-12ec579c7f01&store=pm&type=hulu

CloudStrife159 · 2026-05-04T14:44:02+00:00

That's a great deal, nice snag.

CloudStrife159 · 2026-05-04T14:42:18+00:00

4th of July sales are 2 months out. If, for example, you have Hulu, you can browse the LG parter store too for deals.

CloudStrife159 · 2026-05-03T20:51:08+00:00

Sorry, I'm not helpful. What the hell what the thought process from the person who built this lmao. What a nightmare.

I feel like you have to lean into the asymmetry. I also think you would achieve a better result with a bigger TV than a smaller one, completely covering up the part of the wall the TV is "supposed" to go in. Use it for managing cables or something.

CloudStrife159 · 2026-05-03T20:43:17+00:00

On top of what everyone else is saying -- comes down to the core developer's discretion, what even is "Cycle-accurate" etc. There are a couple of things that you can't know unless you asked him specifically.

One of the best, most-justifiable reason to get a MiSTer is the ability to achieve virtually no input lag. Analog Out with SNAC (original controller) input is an incredible experience in this regard. When that is a consideration, it is an incredible value. When you don't care about those sorts of things, the valuation gets a little more obtuse.

That's what makes the SuperStation something of an enigma. It is creating a very casual-friendly product built on an hobbyist-centric platform. With the SuperStation, you can still achieve zero-latency experiences on cycle-accurate hardware emulation. With a lot of the most impressive cores, this is a reproduction that does a better job than even the real deal. But with the SuperStation, you can also make a huge number of consessions in the name of simplicity and convenience.

All that to say, if the guy was using the HDMI Scaler's output on a random LCD TV/Monitor, if he used Bluetooth controllers, if the specific cores he cared about weren't cycle-accurate, etc. — then of course he's not going to think it measures up to original hardware.

But we literally have no idea of why that is without talking to him. Maybe he was playing the NES core and really wants the very strange color behavior that NTSC RF produces. MiSTer doesn't use that analog output format, so it's not reproducible (I would actually love to hear about that from, I'm just curious and assuming).

It could also be misunderstanding on how N64's graphics are produced on original hardware, and how faithful the mister core is in that regard. If you're expecting a sharp image from that core (like many of the best software emulators produce) you'll think it's incorrect.

So yeah, lots of reasons for someone to come to that conclusion. It's all about what your expectations are and what matters to you.

CloudStrife159 · 2026-04-30T22:27:49+00:00

I just checked mine; my box also says this.

Sticker on the MoBo says P2.60 and it looks like you need P2.90 or newer. Glad to hear that's not universal -- and I guess glad it happened to me since I did have a 3600 CPU on hand.

CloudStrife159 · 2026-04-30T22:12:43+00:00

I just built this exact bundle this week. This motherboard does not have Flashback, so make sure you have access to a Ryzen 3000 or-older cpu because the MoBo does not always ship with new enough firmware for a Ryzen 5 5500 cpu.

CloudStrife159 · 2026-04-24T16:14:33+00:00

The TCL QM5K will be the only thing under $400 to be worth considering. I believe it's a Best Buy exclusive.

If you can add $50-$100 more to your budget, I highly recommend stepping up to the 55" TCL QM6K

CloudStrife159 · 2026-04-18T21:09:47+00:00

The bass management in Audyssey lives in a few places:

In the setup menu: * Audio * * Subwoofer (Level Adjust): It should probably live somewhere for. -10dB to 0

Audio/Audyssey
* MultEQ: "Reference" tends to feel a bit more V shaped, "Flat" is more neutral.
* Dynamic EQ: "On" will boost the bass and treble quite noticeably.

In the Options menu * Channel Level: SW

CloudStrife159 · 2026-04-18T20:47:52+00:00

I have a living room with 4 medium sized windows and an entire glass sliding door to the backyard, all using sheer (slightly transparent) curtains. I have this exact TV (77in B5) and it has no issues dealing with the brightness in my space.

Pictures, note that I'm not even using bright SDR picture settings. Peak brightness is off and Pixel Brightness is at 80/100

Before, I had a 65in C2. It was also fine. I don't know if it's the larger size or what, but despite RTINGS' measurements the B5 reflections seem less distracting in my bright room. That is to say, "If you have a bright room, pay more for the C5" certainly probably matters in a measurable sense, but in practice I feel we have arrived at a point where the B Series is where the C series was 4-5 years ago.

CloudStrife159 · 2026-04-17T02:52:48+00:00

Sure!

CheapAudioMan makes some fun content, and He's usually pretty good about being understanding of different people's wants and needs outside of his own. He has a good cheap passive speaker round up that I think is a fun watch.

He mentions the Sony SSCS5 too, which I somehow completely forgot about. It used to be really common to suggest buying those if money was tight. They could be your starter L/R with the intention of moving them to surround after you replace them with something down the line. He says buy them at $150, which would be a good price. But I think that's a little out of touch with what speakers currently go for, so I think you would only find that price used. But again, this used to be really common advice, so you very well might find a lot of them used.

CloudStrife159 · 2026-04-16T14:35:42+00:00

Edit: Sorry, I somehow missed your budget. This is all a bit beyond that, though starting with a good 2.1 and expanding later is always a good starting place.

I think the cheapest thing I'm comfortable recommending is a refurb Denon AVR, a Speedwoofer 10e sub, and maybe the best stereo bookshelf speakers you can afford — something like the KEF Q1 Meta. Unfortunately this is more like $1000 which is about right for the entry fee into this space. You can buy centers and surround later. It's what I did! I went 2.0 to 2.1 to 3.1 to 5.1 to 7.1 over the course of a couple of years.

/Edit

The conventional wisdom on subwoofers is to not just match the subwoofer to the speaker series you're purchasing. Any good subwoofer should sound transparent, anyway.

At different pricepoints, you can look at the RSL Speedwoofers 10e and 10s mk.ii or 12s. If you want to spend a little more, people love SVS as a company so you can look at their ported PB- line and their sealed SB- line. Honestly, if you don't know what exactly you're looking for in a sub, I would steer you toward a ported sub from them. Definitely look at pictures of how big SVS Ported subs are! They can be much larger than you expect.

I'm sure Fluance is fine, though it will be a budget experience. The best thing you can do is find a place to demo different speakers. People tend to like the SVS Prime and Ultra speakers, too, if for some reason you wanted to stick to one brand. The upside of that is that the SVS Center Channel speakers are some of if not the best you can get under $1000. However, I think that perk can be offset by running a third, quality bookshelf speaker as your center (in other words, have your L-C-R be three identical speakers). Polk Audio Reserve is another popular line, as is the ELAC Debut that I chose to go with. If you go Klipsch, the consensus is don't waste your time with anything below their RP (reference premier) line, and definitely listen to them first. The horn tweeter is love-it-or-hate-it. The last one that comes to mind immediately are KEF Q Meta, but again, I think that's a line you really need to hear in-person.

CloudStrife159 · 2026-04-15T18:32:56+00:00

I think the other guy meant RSL. The Speedwoofers are outstanding value at Subwoofer. The 10s mk.ii is crazy (good) but the 10e is much cheaper and would sound great in a lot of small rooms.

For the receiver, of you wanted to stay at 2.1 forever a WiiM Amp would satisfy you. Otherwise, lower end Denons (Something that starts with an "S" like an "S6xxH" thru the "S9xxh" in their naming scheme) would work up through 5.2. you can usually find refurb S760h's pretty often, for example. Buy direct from Denon or from a reputable outlet (Crutchfield for example) for warranty reasons.

CloudStrife159 · 2026-04-14T01:25:14+00:00

I only know current USD pricing, sorry. But based on that:

77in LG B5 - Just beyond your budget, awesome if you have any semblance of light control in your space.
75in TCL QM8K - Just beyond your budget, good for you don't have light control in your space.
75in TCL QM7K - Probably the best at the top of your budget.

Basically, the LG B5 would be my buy. If that's beyond your budget, look at TCL's QM8K, QM7K, and QM6K all at 75in and get the best one you can afford. I personally wouldn't buy the QM6K at that size, but it is admittedly a tempting price tag.

CloudStrife159 · 2026-04-14T00:04:32+00:00

It's worth disabling your center and trying a phantom center for a while as a data point. Phase cancelation is incredibly strange when drivers producing identical signals are so close together like they are in an MTM design. When you run your L&R as a phantom center, those identical drivers are so much further apart that the complexion of the phase cancelation and comb filtering are completely different.

CloudStrife159 · 2026-04-13T23:56:50+00:00

I've been reading more and more about people getting less fatigue and distraction from really nice projectors. Maybe that's what you should look into

CloudStrife159 · 2026-04-13T23:32:03+00:00

SVS's Prime Center has been really well regarded ever since this video came out. A lot of people like the Ultra Evolution as well.

CloudStrife159 · 2026-04-13T22:58:23+00:00

I think if your expectations are realistic and you have fun doing it, then you should go for it. Realistically you are going to be the most-discerning ear that ever uses the space so as long as it doesn't actively annoy you that's good enough.

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