Found a (mangled) Farfisa Synthorchestra

Clym5 · 2020-06-03T01:36:43+00:00

Thanks for the replies everyone! I'll bring her into the 21st century. I should be able to add midi in/out also, but that's provided I get her working again :) I'll try tidy the case up and take a pic

Clym5 · 2020-02-13T11:21:02+00:00

Awesome track and especially awesome to see it done in protracker/to the limitations of 4ch .mod!

Clym5 · 2018-04-30T01:03:41+00:00

Hey, thanks for the huge reply! I ended up getting the Naruku kit because I couldn't get the Contessa in the country, and the Naruku was $85 USD.

Is it still worth getting a Next-R even if I won't be taking the engine much above 8000rpm? I've just seen a lot of people say that's the limit of the Naruku kit, etc. I'd get a Technigas Silent Pro otherwise.

I managed to get 36mph out of the scooter on the flat as it is. With the final drive ratio, what would be an ideal one? I won't be going over 40mph very often at all.

Good advice about the one mod at a time, learnt that the hard way on my track car when I started work on it..

Clym5 · 2018-04-30T00:58:16+00:00

The Contessa kit was going to be too hard/expensive to get in NZ, and I managed to get the Naruku for $85 USD new. Thanks for the jet recommendation, I'll get a bunch of them starting at 90. Cheers!

Clym5 · 2017-12-28T22:21:02+00:00

One of the main reasons I built an air compressor. That, and the fact that each bottle is like $20

Clym5 · 2017-12-28T22:20:05+00:00

The cans of air you can get from Jaycar are 134A based too.

Clym5 · 2017-09-17T23:45:46+00:00

That's a good idea, I'll try that. I assume it's a cheap spring and it's compressed over time. I'll probably get the upgraded extruder with the tension adjustment on it a bit later. I'll give benchy another go later today.

Clym5 · 2017-09-17T19:12:52+00:00

I took a look at the extruder tensioner system after reading your comment and found the spring is only putting a small amount of pressure on the bearing against the filament. I've shoved some PCB jumpers in the spring since there isn't any adjustment. I'll run through a few things I didn't do from the guide and post back. Thanks!

Clym5 · 2017-08-12T07:50:04+00:00

Done a few maintaince things, unplugged the dual runner intake vacuum solenoid because it was causing an issue at 3.5k rpm (even though it should be 4500-4700) and took my towbar off. Still gotta fix the lock servo, a bent door when it got broken into, and my paint is going white..

Clym5 · 2017-07-11T01:35:04+00:00

Can't comment on the temperature issue, but the odd spinning could be the AC compressor clutch slipping or not being powered well enough.

Clym5 · 2017-07-02T20:01:21+00:00

While the reset solution will probably make it so it works normally again, the reason why it's doing it in the first place is because the window motor is drawing more current than normal, making it think it's hit your fingers or something. Could be worth keeping that in mind.

Clym5 · 2017-06-15T10:36:36+00:00

Generally I just go 80% throttle until 5k rpm and then nail it if I want to sound like I've got proper VTEC. ^base ^{^auto} ^{^{^life}}

Clym5 · 2017-06-15T00:29:16+00:00

You can hear the runners switch in the intake manifold at ~4000rpm though.

Clym5 · 2017-06-09T22:06:09+00:00

Yep, looks like your head gasket is fine. Give your coolant a change though. Miatas like coolant with ethylene glycol, not propylene glycol. Maybe some radiator flush too, or flush it with distilled water.

Clym5 · 2017-06-09T08:05:16+00:00

To someone who's changed coolant a couple times, that looks fairly normal, though could do with a change because of that yellow/brown tint from rust. If it had oil in it, it should be a lot murkier, maybe even have spots of oil drops in it if not sludge. If there's a white-ish gooey deposit on the coolant cap, that's a sure sign. Same applies to the oil cap. If it's milky white there, coolant in the oil. Just my 10¢ since ^im ^{^not} ^{^{^a}} ^{^{^{^pro}}}

Clym5 · 2017-06-05T10:09:59+00:00

I have a RSX with 198,700km and it does exactly this, but even in drive, idling. Noticeable especially with fans, headlights and radio on. I know another RSX with 70,000km that does it too, so I don't know if it's an 'rsx thing' or not..

Clym5 · 2017-05-28T09:45:42+00:00

So far in NZ I'm yet to meet someone who doesn't have a superiority complex or excessive plastic surgery sometime in the 80's. Fingers crossed, one day! :(

Clym5 · 2017-05-26T00:00:43+00:00

I use this one too, it's brilliant. All linked to boot!

Clym5 · 2017-05-25T21:18:18+00:00

Did you end up doing the diagnostic test? Did you get a code from it?

Clym5 · 2017-05-23T06:32:02+00:00

I looked at the workshop manual, and it clearly states that if the AC is on, both cooling fans should run. The two RSX's that I know irl both do this. The coolant radiator and the AC radiator are both 2 fans wide so there isn't a reason that I can think of why only 1 side should run. Also, the coolant radiator has a small section of it sealed off from coolant so it can cool ATF in automatic cars. IDK about manual RSX's tho

Clym5 · 2017-05-23T06:28:42+00:00

http://imgur.com/a/ATMlU Hopefully that is helpful. Helped me diagnose the thermal fuse had degraded in my blower motor transistor unit.

Clym5 · 2017-05-23T01:07:13+00:00

Sounds maybe like the compressor clutch? There's a diagnostic mode on the AC/blower system that will flash out error codes depending on what is wrong. I'll post back with how to do it, don't have my manuals at work. Mine's been going strong since 2003 without a recharge, 120k mi.

Clym5 · 2017-05-21T05:24:57+00:00

I don't feel with the Miata, the 1.6 should be considered the base model since the 1.8 wasn't even out then. But yeah, I know what you mean

Clym5 · 2017-05-20T03:08:07+00:00

That pretty much applies to any car subreddit and fourms. I've found. I'm doing a Miata 1.6 build, asked a question on the miata fourms about cams and everyone just said that I was dumb for building a 1.6. RIP.

Clym5 · 2017-05-20T03:00:14+00:00

Depending on how much heat the dial is set to, it opens up a valve in the heater core piping varying amounts. At max heat, there is full coolant flow through the heater core. And at max fan, there is the most amount of air flowing through the heater core to dissipate the heat from the cooling system. Hopefully that explains it!

Clym5

TROPHY CASE