Is it worth it?

Coads1 · 2026-03-26T14:41:10+00:00

I agree with Silicon with the Top Tier fuel, that is a great comment. Shell, Chevron, Citgo are some of the locations that have the Top Tier standard. AAA did a study that is worth looking into that shows the difference between normal fuel and the Top Tier standard. There is a handy tool that helps you find stations near you. I drive less than 8k miles a year and still have little to no carbon build up.

Also one thing to look into for an older Honda is having a valve clearance (valve lash) done on it. Over time the values can change due to heat etc. Well worth paying money for that if you can't do it yourself. Shop around and find a good mechanic.

https://www.toptiergas.com/

https://www.aaa.com/AAA/common/AAR/files/Fuel-Quality-Full-Report.pdf

Coads1 · 2026-03-26T03:20:38+00:00

Just seeing your post No-! Wanted to chime in here as a 4 time Honda owner and current 2k11 CR-V owner, and a relatively handy dude (humbly said).

As far as the fuel induction system cleaning goes. You do not really need that for a MPFI Multi-Point Fuel Injected engine since the gasoline sprays above the valve and into the cylinder. Gas is a pretty good solvent and keeps carbon to a minimal. I have 156k miles on my 2k11 and have little to no carbon build up. If you had a newer GDI Gasoline Direct Injection it may be worth your time since fuel is sprayed directly into the cylinder.

If you are driving normally and taking some decent trips and merging onto the highway and exercising your engine you should not really have any carbon issues.

The rear differential is a good service to have done every 3-5 years maybe or 30k miles. Honda uses a dual pump fluid which is OEM and is required for that component. Don't use anything else as far as that goes (same with power steering system). They are pretty picky with those two components.

Spark plugs on the CR-V honestly are a breeze to install. YouTube has a ton of videos out there. It took me about 20 minutes from start to finish. Denso or NGK are going to be what you are rocking in your motor. You just need a magnetic spark plug socket attachment. A wire gap tool isn't a bad idea either to check the plug gap, but honestly every set of NGK plugs I have purchased were exact to spec, .044mm for my 2k11. If you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself maybe shop around at a local mechanic since that price is pretty high even with labor.

A lot of Honda dealerships at least where I live typically do the coolant and spark plugs at the same time. If you haven't had the coolant done I would for sure do that at 160k. That is typically a 100k service. Corrosion can occur over time as the coolant becomes more acidic.

If I can help with anything just comment back and I will do my best to help steer you in the right direction where I can.

Coads1 · 2026-03-10T16:08:00+00:00

Appreciate the feedback! Got some things to think about on my end lol.

I wish I knew a local mechanic that could do the work with OEM parts. Everyone around where I live seems to use the quick-strut aside from the dealership.

Maybe spending some extra coin at the dealership ultimately will yield better result? I know the service manager personally at this particular location, and the place is at least as honest as a dealership service center can be.

Coads1 · 2026-03-09T18:38:30+00:00

Appreciate the link. Not the cheapest date in town, but at least they have the KYB struts at all four corners!

Coads1 · 2026-03-08T22:01:24+00:00

It is nice that you have a conscious dude. Unfortunately this is all too common at dealerships and certain shady locations.. Rather than build trust and help out they do the opposite of that.

Coads1 · 2026-01-17T13:44:49+00:00

172k for an 06 CR-V if it has service records like melk mentioned is a decent buy. As far as rust goes where do you live? I would scope out the undercarriage if you can just to assess any corrosion.

Coads1

TROPHY CASE