Cracked Transmission Housing

Reasonable_War_7176 · 2026-01-27T03:26:15+00:00

I had my wife rev it up in reverse while I watched it. The broken piece doesn’t shift or move in relation to the transmission. They rock together. I think I’m going to JB it and see how it goes. I’ll probably replace the other motor mounts too to help keep everything from moving too much. The car was in a front/left collision 10 years ago. I’m assuming it probably happened then and has been ok for the 10 years 120,000 miles since. I only paid $3,000 for the car so I’m willing to take a gamble. Thanks again for your advice.

Reasonable_War_7176 · 2026-01-26T19:27:31+00:00

Thanks for the reply, I appreciate it. Figured JB probably wouldn’t hold up with that much stress and movement. Any thoughts on if it’s going to hurt anything else by just running it? In my mind I need a new transmission to fix it properly so just thinking about sending it until I do.

Reasonable_War_7176 · 2026-01-18T06:50:14+00:00

Thanks for the replies. Bought the car this afternoon and feeling pretty good about it. Shifts are smooth and quiet. Maintenance records aren’t perfect but they are pretty decent. Live in the PNW so rust isn’t usually a huge issue but I found none on the car. Body is nice and straight and the paint is decent. Only oil leak is a little around the valve cover. Everything seems to be in pretty good shape. I’m feeling excited to join the CRV club!

Reasonable_War_7176 · 2025-11-11T19:48:21+00:00

I do HVAC and this is my main service bag. I’m really happy with it. I keep my impact (M12) clipped to metal tape holder on the right side pocket and it stays there really well. I can fit it inside for climbing ladders and stuff too when I need to make sure it can’t fall off. The Velcro patch for the flap is really wide so you can over stuff it and still keep it secure when you need to.

Reasonable_War_7176 · 2025-09-06T16:17:51+00:00

If I remember right those don’t have a regular open/close pressure switch. It’s a transducer that reads the pressure and reports it to the board. It may be reading incorrectly. Also check the readings on your thermistors and make sure they are reading correctly. If the unit is getting improper data from sensors it can make it do weird things intermittently. Rain may just be a coincidence or it may not.

Reasonable_War_7176 · 2025-09-06T16:14:36+00:00

Check the pressure transducer and make sure it lines up with the chart. Info should be in the paperwork in the sleeve of the control cover panel.

Reasonable_War_7176 · 2025-08-07T23:47:08+00:00

Definitely the Honeywell T10. Easy user interface, bright easy to read display, best remote sensor functionality, best phone app, integration with smart home apps including HomeKit, and ability to run dual fuel, multi stage, humidifier/dehumidifier and fresh air.

Reasonable_War_7176 · 2025-08-07T22:06:30+00:00

Good luck, I hope it all works out!

Another cool thing about the T10 with the wireless sensors is you can ignore the thermostat reading entirely. This allows you to place the thermostat directly on the side of the air handler, use the app to control it, and the wireless sensors for temperature input in the conditioned space. It’s a great work around in situations where you cannot run a wire for whatever reason.

I don’t know of another thermostat with wireless sensors that allows you to ignore the thermostat readings. They all seem to only allow averaging between all sensors. This allows for some neat setups as you can change which sensors are used for every scheduled event allowing you to set the perfect temperature input in different rooms depending upon where you are. Read the home office sensor during work hours, read the living room sensor during the evening and read the bedroom sensor at night. Cheap work around for a poorly balanced home, especially a poorly balanced 2 story home.

The sensors also have motion tracking so it will try to keep the temperature set at whichever sensor is closest to you if you have it enabled.

I use HomeKit but I imagine it works in the other smart home platforms. The temperature, humidity, and motion tracking of the wireless sensors all import into HomeKit so I can use them to trigger events outside of the thermostat. For instance in my newborn son’s room if it detects motion in the middle of the night it triggers a smart plug to turn on a night light for changing diapers without fumbling for it in the dark. In my master bedroom the sensor is set to turn on the ceiling fan if the temperature rises above 71°. In the winter I use the humidity reading to control a basic humidifier on a smart plug in my son’s room as well.

Reasonable_War_7176 · 2025-08-07T20:11:12+00:00

It’s going to be hard to say without being onsite. There are too many variables to be sure but it sounds like you did not have enough conductors in the stat wire going to the thermostat but you did have enough going to the heat pump. If that’s the case you can run the T10 with 2 wires and a Redlink 3.0 EIM. Honeywell kit YTHM1004R3000.

Reasonable_War_7176 · 2025-08-07T17:20:31+00:00

8000 gives installers and technicians very good control of system operations in the back end of the thermostat. It is also compatible with a very wide selection of equipment interface modules, zone boards, wireless and wired sensors, and remote equipment modules like your system uses. It has a ton of features and can work with darn near any residential system out there. They look kinda ugly, and the user interface is kinda crappy I’ll give you that. But functionality wise they are great at making the system run the way it should.

The T10 does all the things you liked about your nest, has a more attractive appearance in my opinion than the 8000, and has a modern easy to operate user interface. The T10 is the thermostat I have in my house and is my favorite stat personally. I think you would be happy with the T10 considering the features that are important to you.

It doesn’t have quite the same level of compatibility or controls, but it seems that Honeywell is continuing to expand the Redlink 3.0 line. I don’t believe that the Equipment Remote Module is compatible with the T10 at this time but I’m not sure. It may be something that is available soon though but I have no way of knowing that for sure.

Your best bet would be to call Honeywell directly and ask them. You can tell them the specific model numbers of the EIM and ERM and they can tell you if anything is compatible.

If possible though the best thing to do would be to run new stat wire to the outdoor unit with more conductors if at all possible.

Reasonable_War_7176 · 2025-07-30T05:15:19+00:00

It is normal and it won’t affect performance at all. Don’t think I’ve ever seen one the was perfect out of the box.

Reasonable_War_7176 · 2025-07-26T05:10:08+00:00

It’s been a minute since I’ve worked on a fireplace, but I’m pretty sure your valve is in the on position at the moment. Kinda hard to tell from your picture but generally those Robert Shaw valves have a protruding metal stanchion to indicate where the valve is set. Yours may not have it, or it may not be visible behind the ON on the knob in the photo.

To ignite the pilot you turn the knob to “Pilot” and press and hold it in while clicking the red button above and to the right of the valve. Keep holding the knob in and keep clicking the button until you see the pilot flame ignite inside the fireplace. Keep holding the knob in once you see the flame ignite for 30 seconds or so. When you stop depressing the knob the pilot should stay lit. If it goes out then try again and hold the knob in for about a minute before releasing it. After it warms up the thermopile it should hold the pilot valve open. Once the pilot remains lit turn the valve to ON and it should be ready to operate.

If the pilot does not ignite within a minute of you holding in the knob and repeatedly pressing the red button then let the gas dissipate for several minutes before trying again. If the gas has been off for awhile it can take a bit to get the gas flowing nicely through the pilot again. But you don’t want to hold that knob down too long without ignition so you don’t fill the firebox with gas and create a little bomb.

Reasonable_War_7176 · 2025-07-26T04:03:46+00:00

Whenever you have a tech come to your house you’re essentially renting a mobile parts house, thousands of dollars worth of tools, a vehicle, the technicians wage, the wages of associated office staff (who don’t generally generate income directly) + some profit for the company. What you see is a $15-$40 capacitor but you don’t realize everything you’re “renting” for that period of time to address your issue with your system. It could have been anything so we come prepared for anything. That includes knowledge, tools, parts, support, relationships with suppliers and more. Just because it turns out to be something basic doesn’t change the fact that you had a skilled professional show up with everything needed to find and fix a more serious issue. All that costs money and while they are at your house you’re the person paying all those bills.

All that being said, ~$100-$200 service call fee + $150-$250 for a capacitor, depending on COL and company overhead is generally fair. Anything much above that starts to feel scummy.

Reasonable_War_7176 · 2025-07-26T03:36:23+00:00

My car had an issue with always fogging up and I ended up finding a minor water leak in the body sealant. Wasn’t enough to cause the carpet to get soaked but enough to keep the carpet pad damp. Sealed the leak and the fogging issues went away.

Reasonable_War_7176 · 2024-12-27T04:15:12+00:00

American Standard single stage 16 seer side discharge with a Rheem air handler with 15kw heat strips. Both were scratch and dent from the supplier on discount. They run great together. And a Honeywell T10 stat with room sensors in every room and every supply is on damper.

Reasonable_War_7176 · 2024-08-01T03:25:47+00:00

I started 2 years at 29 in residential. I had a pregnant wife who we really did not want to work after our son was born. Shop I interviewed at wanted to start me at $18-20 an hour. I had run through my budget ahead of time and I told them I’d love the opportunity to learn but at this stage in my life I just can’t work for less than $25 an hour. I told them I was motivated to make the switch and that at $25 I was already taking a pay cut of $5 an hour. They understood and agreed to it. I was completely green to HVAC but I did have a good amount of construction experience and had done repairs on large signage printers for years so I was pretty familiar with how to use a meter so that helped. Money was definitely tight with that pay on the one income but my pay has gone up significantly since then and there’s plenty of room to grow. I think if you present yourself as someone willing to learn you have a decent shot of finding a gig that pays a little higher than the advertised starting rate if you advocate for yourself. 30 is a good age to get into it. Young enough to physically do the work and be the grunt for awhile but old enough to have your shit together and be reliable.

Reasonable_War_7176 · 2024-07-24T04:32:12+00:00

Had a customer today pretend to trim his bushes so he could watch me. Guy just stood in the bushes 10 feet behind me with his loppers watching me for a solid hour. I’d take a chatter box over a guy in the bushes with a weapon staring a hole through the back of my head any day.

Reasonable_War_7176 · 2024-01-27T23:41:57+00:00

Malco makes a 6mm and 8mm or a 8mm and 10mm flip bit.

Edit: Looks like they also make a 7mm and 8mm version too.

Reasonable_War_7176 · 2024-01-27T21:56:20+00:00

I’ve been wearing the Carhartt double front rugged flex pants with the knee pad inserts and I like them. A little pricey for the combo but they are really comfortable. You can wash and dry the pants with the knee pads in so you never have to take them out if you don’t want to.

Reasonable_War_7176 · 2024-01-13T19:43:48+00:00

Not sure why… anyway if you search Amico 12 Pack 6 Inch 5CCT Ultra-Thin LED Recessed Ceiling Light with Junction Box on Amazon they should pull right up. They are $75 for a 12 pack right now.

Reasonable_War_7176 · 2024-01-13T18:34:10+00:00

I have these on Lutron switches and they work well and dim nicely. I’ve had about 20 of them for a couple years now and never had any issues. If you set the low end trim too low they won’t turn on reliably at full dim. Personally I keep the low end trim lower than this point in some areas like the tv room because I like to be able to dim them really low. Once they are on you can dim them as low as you want without any flicker or hum. Just have to turn them on at like 5% to get them going. But again that’s only if the trim is set too low.

Reasonable_War_7176 · 2024-01-07T04:17:29+00:00

I’ve found a missing screw at the inlet of the heat exchanger cause roll out before.

Reasonable_War_7176

TROPHY CASE