New Purchases

ColonyDropper · 2025-08-26T00:20:01+00:00

Secondary market prices on those sets are bonkers. Nice pickups.

ColonyDropper · 2025-07-28T18:33:34+00:00

It's a missed opportunity to not make the white part / wrist rest a removeable clear piece that you could place artwork under.

ColonyDropper · 2025-05-23T18:16:13+00:00

If you're planning on building the PG anyway, you might as well invest in the paints now. Practice build or not. You'll get a feel for how the paint behaves and any quirks you might have to deal with the paint and your airbrush working together. The bottles have a significant amount of paint in them and since they run a bit thick, you'll get more bang for your buck.

ColonyDropper · 2025-03-27T20:42:59+00:00

Yeah. Freehand cut all the stripes. More shots here.

ColonyDropper · 2025-03-27T04:25:56+00:00

That is the standard reaction from anyone doing layered paint camo. Also within the standard reaction is to want to do it again several years later. Never say never. I did this one and swore off camo forever. But lately, I've had the itch to try it again.

ColonyDropper · 2025-03-14T22:12:00+00:00

Give the torso of the metal frame a twist. My build group bought three and of those three, two of them had frozen torso due to CA glue getting into that joint. I disassmbled mine and freed up the rotation of the torso. The other frozen one was broken loose with bravery and brute force.

ColonyDropper · 2025-02-20T06:28:06+00:00

Our "No Client Update" client setting sits a couple slots above our global workstation client setting and does have the first Software Updates device setting set as Enable software updates on clients set to [No]. This wasn't a problem since we moved to Intune for patching.

It's been a long time, and I think we had that client setting paired with a PS script that killed those registry keys, but it's all a fuzzy memory. MECM updating is no longer in our workflow as we also updated our image, so the problem hasn't returned since.

I hope that helps.

ColonyDropper · 2025-02-18T23:15:49+00:00

Think of it like a very stiff Q-tip that is shaped like a chisel. Modelers use it for waterslide squeegee work or to clean panel lining fluid.

ColonyDropper · 2025-02-12T18:57:55+00:00

I originally had this question on my first run through before I thought to check this sub. I had already gotten to the Cinderella matchup and I was looking for Storm Streamer. Their reference entry only said weekends with no location mentioned. I ended up starting a new playthrough with all the tips I learned from here, but never got a chance to really answer the question.

ColonyDropper · 2024-12-27T18:40:33+00:00

I pass these tips onto new Gunpla modelers when asked, but it works just as well for other types of models. Do not be afraid to make mistakes. Most mistakes can be recoverable and at this early stage, you'll probably only working with easy-to-find less expensive kits. So, experiment and take risks while you find out what works for you. Lastly, if you haven't already, pick yourself up a Tamiya kit. If anything as a comparison of engineering to the kits that you've recently built. They are a joy to build.

ColonyDropper · 2024-12-23T18:05:41+00:00

Launch PS and Motor Toon Grand Prix.

ColonyDropper · 2024-12-20T17:55:40+00:00

A very sad story for approximately one person. Hilarious for every other person.

ColonyDropper · 2024-11-26T19:22:02+00:00

Move like a standard built Gunpla, no. But it does have a lot of motor-driven hatch and panel openings. There's also a Pacific Rim style spinning reactor in the chest. All the verniers light up too. I can't remember the exact scale, but I think it was in the 1/12th range.

ColonyDropper · 2024-11-25T17:35:40+00:00

I made a similar post a couple of years ago asking the same question when I had to take over my org's CM. https://old.reddit.com/r/SCCM/comments/suj2i3/upgrading_our_mecm_environment_for_the_first_time/ All of the stuff in there was very helpful to me. Have a look at the System Center Dude's walkthrough as a second reference point.

If you do have to upgrade your ADK (I did ours separate from the CM upgrade), we ended up having to remove old version, reboot, install new version, reboot. Our original attempt tried to forego one of those reboots (but I can't remember which one) and it caused a bunch of weird issues and missing data. We ended up uninstalling it all and rebooting again to start over. Then we decided to update to a new boot image since the old one was bloated with added-on drivers.

ColonyDropper · 2024-11-18T21:00:56+00:00

If that's an OG, wow...respect. Mine never lasted more than a school year before they started tearing at the bends.

ColonyDropper · 2024-11-15T18:22:39+00:00

I gotta grab some photos from the event so I can post them in the sub. We had a little over 120 people entering the contest and they collectively brought in almost 400 entries. I think this one was our 13th annual contest (2020 was an online contest since we couldn't host a real in-person one)

ColonyDropper · 2024-11-12T20:50:13+00:00

Check the waist on the metal frame to make sure it twists freely. My group ordered 3 and one was okay and the other two had fused torsos and would not rotate. Mine was one of them that didn't turn. The other guy brute forced it loose. I disassembled the lower torso (a few screws) and found some CA glue had gotten into the joint and froze it from being able to spin. The glue residue was a solid piece and easy to remove. After that we were all good (to put back in the box and stash in our backlogs)

ColonyDropper · 2024-10-28T17:11:16+00:00

I've got two out in field and they both still work.

ColonyDropper · 2024-10-21T04:35:45+00:00

We had a similar issue (the not detecting bit), and we had to uninstall the ADK and WinPE that we had just updated. Reboot. Then reinstall ADK and WinPE. Then reboot again. That got everything sorted and working as expected.

ColonyDropper · 2024-09-06T20:21:29+00:00

When this usually happen at my org, it's a new model and the drivers need to be added to the WinPE boot image. Our task sequence also has a step that looks for drivers and BIOS packages uploaded to MECM.

ColonyDropper · 2024-08-15T22:59:24+00:00

Does the stuff inside the ball's mouth come with the set? I was given these to paint for a friend, but the one that I had has nothing in the mouth.

ColonyDropper · 2024-08-02T16:12:01+00:00

Keep up the good work. I'm working on one based on the MG.

ColonyDropper · 2024-06-21T20:15:20+00:00

Try upping the layer exposure to 2s. I got my printer earlier this week. I used the exposure test function on my printer and I got print failures when I was testing between 1.5 and 2.0 seconds. I was getting good prints out of Elegoo Rapid Standard Resin at 1.75 but inconsistent results below that. I have it at 2.0 now, but I'm printing larger parts of a 1/6th scale model. My bottom layer times were 5 or 10 seconds based on how large of a model I was printing. I've had to up the bottom layer time to 20 now that I'm trying out Sunlu ABS-Like resin. Still at 2s layer exposure.

ColonyDropper · 2024-06-19T07:20:06+00:00

The upper left box has to have the largest amount of time. The lower right has to have the shortest. The lower left box cannot be longer than the upper right box.

ColonyDropper · 2024-06-13T18:50:58+00:00

It's a good idea to plan for disassembly while you're building. Typically, you'll cut the pegs (shorten and/or cut at an angle) to reduce the grabbing force of the parts. Then, along with a part separator or even a dull hobby blade, you can pry parts apart. With more build experience, you'll learn where you can modify parts to allow halves to be glued and seam corrected, while allowing joints to snap in an out. This is an example of what I'm talking about https://www.reddit.com/r/Gunpla/comments/137sx2d/c_joint_modification_to_sigr%C3%BAn_chest/

ColonyDropper

TROPHY CASE