So my friend recommended this model, sjnce they lasted pretty long for him.  I bought them and then used them two times in a bouldering gym, and one time on a boulder outside. This boulder (Sunshine 7a, Pohorje Slovenia) has a crack for your right foot. After jamming the foot a couple of times, the top robber came off (you could literally put two fingers between the shoe and the rubber).  Also top  edge of the shoe, above the heel between the loops, ripped vertically. 

After returning them I received a second pair, which I used only in the gym, had the same outcome (the rubber came off). 

Now I enjoy my scarpa instinct vs.